700vflash

Well I just got my shee back together and it is running strong. It has basic mods and used Motul 10w-30 for tranny fluid (it was recommended), clutch pads looked good. At peak power it feels like the clutch is slipping. Could the fluid be causing the slipping?

I put a 05 cbr1000rr engine in a kfx700 moddified frame. With a nearly free flowing intake and exhaust it was putting almost 170HP at the wheels. With 12000 rpm's and a 6 spead tranny, it was down right nasty, king of the hill where im from. That is on a basically stock inline 4 banger. The only problem was the size and weight, I ride about 90% trails. I had it for a while but ended up selling it and here I am now with a banshee, go figure. I loved the power and it turned heads everywhere it went, but it was just too much for the way I ride. I would throw it in second gear and rarely ever had to shift going threw the trails. With power like that you would be foolish to try and tap into it on the trails. So if it is a straight line killer, throw a twin turbo viper engine in it and if it is a trail bike, keep it simple.

What's better is you gettin rid of that avatar

Open air box and aftermarket pipes and never changed the jets? I would also bet that you are too lean.

I was wondering if it would be worth the hassle to have the pistions port matched with the cylinders. It is about 3/16! I am waiting for parts to put the top end back together and just wondering if it is worth it. The cylinders are torqued down and I have to remove them to install the new thicker base gaskets.

Without the head gasket on, the pistons sticks out .030 above the cylinder. The gasket bore is 66.5mm and the head bore is 65mm. I have new thicker base gaskets on the way, not sure how much thicker. So I am going to wait until the new gaskets are installed and see what that does.

Sorry, but what do you mean by re-stepping the stock head?

Well I contacted the old banshee owner and he said the pistons were a vito's/wiseco piston. I have found topics about clearance issues with the vito's .80 and .100 pistons and the cometic base gaskets being about .30 thinner than oem gaskets. I read one topic were the guy was going to have the dome bored out to the size of the piston. I think I am going to start with a thicker cylinder base gasket and hope that takes care of it. But that still doesn't help the intake ports being 3/16th off, should I worry about it or what?

I had to do a complete rebuild due to a rod bearing. Got a welded crank and milled head from juggs racing. Pistons i received from the seller of the banshee and was told they were wiseco prolite's. The rim of the pistons do stick out the top of the cylinders about a 1/32 and it seems odd that the ports are not lining up.

I also noticed that the intake ports are not lining up. The ports in the piston are about 3/16 higher than the ports in the cylinder. I also changed the crank but it stayed stock.

I just got my top end back together and the piston is not clearing! I used a wiseco prolite piston, cometic base gasket and a head milled 30 over. Tightened the cylinder head nuts down finger tight and everything cleared, torqued them down and now it doesn't! I don't understand why this combo isn't working. I need advice please!

Hell man, no need to be sorry! Sounds like a good lesson learned right there.

looks like confetti, that sucks! Is that a rare issue or does that happen often with these crank bearings?

Well I noticed some goop around my petcock and does not seem to be a gasket in place, I am also assuming my filter screen is probably gone or has a hole in it, going to look further into before I get her back together. I got the cases sealed up and the clutch back on yesterday, hopefully within the next week or two I will get the top end back on. At least now I can get the motor in the frame and start getting it ready to go! Also I noticed there are supposed to be rubber plugs in the bottom of the cylinders, mine are gone . Are these a must or what? Why have a plugged hole instead of a solid casting?

Thank you, I was a little concerned about that, although I figured that was normal since both cranks were the same.

I had to get a different crank for a rebuild and noticed that 1 of the 4 bearing pins that lock the bearings in place is noticably shorter. I thought the one might of been damaged but now I have 2 stock cranks and they are the same, it is the bearing on the right side. It just seems odd that all have decent pins and 1 just has like a dimple. Is this correct or should all 4 pins be the same? Thanks.

I cleaned out the fuel tank good when I got it because it had been sitting for a while, all the crap in the tank now had to come from the fuel pump. The filter I got is small and clear, so I can see the filter and if it is getting clogged. After finding all the junk in my fuel system, I don't feel safe without a filter.

I have been looking up the clearances because I am going to be putting in a different crank and will be doing some measuring of my own. The CLYMER shop book say's the connecting rod side clearance is 0.25-0.75, as long as the crankshaft assembly width is within spec. Is this correct?

Thanks guy's!

Just throw a sidewinder set up on there and be done with it, forever!!

So boring the sleeves doesn't effect the jetting much?

It was ok until the paint started peeling off, gonna half to do something with them.

Just my opinion but I think the chrome exhaust looks nice. I just got a shee and the T5 headers are black, F****** hate em.

Wow! What did it do to the cases?

I believe .100 over is the most you can do on stock sleeves. I am about to have mine bored .080 over to get rid of the scars in my sleeves, which is a 65.92mm piston and requires a 66mm bore, stock is 64mm.