Gikki44

Awesome. Thanks for all the help guys. I'm gonna try a little at a time and hope I can work the bog out

I should also note that I tried runnin with the air box lid off and it just bogged and was struggling to go anywhere in low throttle. Which is why I'm thinking lean?

I didnt pull the plugs but will taking a wot look at them help me figure out my low end issue? It just wouldn't make sense that I'm too rich on the low end if it was fine before the t5's. And we do mostly trail riding so the loss in low end kinda sucks. Lol

Ok today I ran it with the 320's. The top end def rips and runs clean. However the low end about 1/4 on up it just feels very flat and I gotta keep the rpm's up or it will bog. Didn't do it before the t5's and the 320's. Think it needs more fuel in the low side? Maybe clip one down?

Thanks for the info!! Sounds alot like my setup. But yea I'm not sure what the t5's are made for. I think to be safe I'm gonna give at least the 320's a rip and go from there. Anyone know where the t5's are aimed for?

Nice. Thanks for all the help. Appreciate it!!

Yea that's what I'm shooting for. Rather play it safe and work back down. We'll see what happens. I'm gonna start at 320 and go down if needed. And I believe I'm about 1100 ft

I did forget to mention that. Motor is stock, t5's with stingers, boyesen reeds, k&n filter w/lid on, tors eliminated, screws at 1 1/2 turns out, clip in middle slot, 27.5 pilot and at the moment 280 mains. I just can't get rid of this flat bog at wot. Mostly in 1-3. Seems a bit better in higher gears but can't get it to scream like it should. It has done this from 200 mains on up to now 280. It does seem better which is why I'm thinkin of goin up a few on the mains. I'm gonna try a plug chop as soon as I can get out again

I don't know. The bog sea to go away a bit and pulls harder all the way through in the higher gears. It rips in second up until about 3/4 but in higher gears it doesn't feel near as bad. I know the area the pilot and main jets control I just was unsure if moving the needle clip can affect wot at all.

Ok. I'm def a bit lean in the top end of second and third but once I get it into third and beyond it's not near as noticeable. Now my question is I'm runnin 280 mains and I was gonna try 300 mains but wondering if I should first try moving the needle clip down one. Would the change do technically the same thing? Right now the clip is in the middle.

Hey man. Never got a text. You still have the parts?

Text me your address. I'm gonna try and get down there this weekend. I was just down there yesterday on a job too. Dammit!! Lol. 610-751-2656

Where are you located. If your are code is 610 I'm right by ya?

And I'll also take the front fender brackets from ya as well.

Would you be willing to take 175 for the t5's?

Well I did alittle ridin today. It seems wind out in first and second and bog a bit. But once u get it into third and above she rips pretty good. I tried the choke and it didn't make much if a change. If anything worse do I'm guessing it a bit too rich. I have 280's inthere now so I'm gonna try around 250 I'm guessin.

As far as the type or brand of the plate does it really matter. I've seen some ricky stator plates for around 35 and some billet aluminum on ebay for around 45. What do ya think. The one on vito performance is 66 but is it worth it?

It feels as if like in a car timing is not advancing correctly but it's just the stock plate. And to answer one of the previous questions yes the slides are opening all the way. The eyelits are lined ip in the holes at wot. I did however have to adjust that screw in the thumb throttle box to keep the eyelits lined up in the holes at wot. They were slightly above the holes. But the power loss actually starts before wot. Do ya think it's worth trying an adjustable timing plate and advancing a couple degrees

No I haven't yet. I guess that's gonna be my next option. But I'll throw in some 300's and see if it gets any better. I'm thinkin about throwin in the stock reeds too and see if there's any change.

I was thinkin it feels lean too but for what mods I have I would think 280 should be good. And yes they are stock head pipes with fmf slip ons and I'm around 1100 feet

Sorry. I forgot to add it does have a k&n filter setup. I've tried with the lid on and off and no change. With little adjustments I can notice slight differences but nothing drastic enough to gain any power where it should

Yes I did a leaksown. Holds 6-7 psi all day. Def not the prob. Bike fires on the first or second kick. Stock stator and it ohms perfect. New plugs, and just put new NGk plug boots. I have also tried new stock plug boots as well.

Heres the problem. Its pulling great from idle till about mid to 3/4. The power just all of a sudden stops. Not pulling the way it should be at all.. heres the mods: Slip on pipes, boysen reeds, 27.5 pilots and 280 mains. I've tried the stock pilots and stock mains and everything in between. Pretty much everything else is stock. Im runnin 40:1 and i've tried 32:1. The carbs have been rebuilt and cleaned a few times and ive found nothing wrong. Floats are perfect. Pick up coil is set right and i just put a new stock coil on. It kinda feels as if timing would be off but its the stock plate. i was thinking about trying and aftermarket and adding a couple degrees and see if theres a change. any other thoughts. Its def aggravating the shit outta me. And i actually bought it this way. It just def does not have the pull of a banshee at all. Also the compression is 125 on the left cylinder and 110 on the right. I know its low on the right but that still shouldnt affect it the way its acting.

Does anyone have a more detailed explanation on how to exactly sync the stock carbs? My clymers doesnt get too much into detail. Im just not sure of what the height from the start should be. Should i be bottoming the screw all the way down. and at what point should the eyes line up. I mean at WOT or just shy of WOT?

hey man, ill take the stock carbs if they are in good known working condition. I sent ya a pm.