Gikki44

The manual is calling for a 16:1 premix for break in. Is this what should be used or not? And it also calls for straight 10w30 engine oil? What is everyone using?

Thanks guys ! Got it

When the flywheel and stator and everything else on that side of the case is removed, does it mess up the timing? I mean does anything specific need to be reset when installing. The manual doesnt mention too much about the timing.

according to the manual it says the arm firtst. But i do have the pushrod and ball removed now and it still wont slip up.

I cannot figure out how to remove the shift arm from the case? i disconnected the cable, removed the bolt and keeper and it slides up about a 1/4 inch but will not come out. Is there something else im missing?

Just found out the problem. The dumbass who had it before me put the crank seal on the right side in backwards. So he claims he never had any problems but he's obviously full of shit!!

Thanks for the info guys. Yea i noticed tonight that i would have to remove all that anyway so its all comin out, haha. I actually didnt find what i was expecting. There is no gearcase oil under the piston. There is oil but it is the premix oil only. There is quite a bit of oil/gas under it but im certain its premix. Now the compression in that cylinder was only 105 but why would it be smoking grayish blue smoke out that cylinder if it was just sucking down the premix. The top of that piston is also quite black like carbon build up. i dont think that crank seal is bad? Im freakin lost, now im thinkin i just tore it down for nothing. Also i cannot pull the shift lever out from the casing, i removed the bolt and holding piece but it just slides up a 1/4 inch or so and wont come out.

Checked all areas of both cylinders today. All within .002. Should be good with that. Gonna order new rings and change out the seals. If oil is leaking out the right cylinder would just changing the crank seal on that side fix that problem? I know both should be changed, just wondering? Can the flywheel, stator and front sprocket be left on to change the seal if i just do the clutch {right side}? If the bearing is bad on that side is that an easy removal? Sorry for throwing all the questions out its just my first time rippin this motor down and its nice to have advice from people who have done it quite a few times. haha.

Anybody?

Started tear down of the motor for a rebuild. I came to the conclusion to do this because i was pretty sure the crank seals were shot. Got everything off down to the crankcase. The right side cylinder which was smoking badly has a good amount of gearcase oil in the piping all the way through. Im guessing this is a sure sign that the crank seal was bad. Correct? Also the compression on that cylinder was only around 105 but the rings and piston look to be in good shape. Im gonna measure the cylinders tomorrow at work. I actually work in a machine shop so it'll come in handy. What else would be a sign of the low compression in that cylinder. I am also wondering if from this point with the engine still bolted to the frame can i split the cases and leave the bottom in to change the crank seals. I mean without removing the front sprocket, flywheel and all that.

Any suggestions or advice on this?

So I decided while I'm in there I might as well freshen up a bit. As long as the pistons and cylinders look ok I'm gonna change out fresh rings. I actually work in a full machine shop so we'll check the cylinders over but I'd like to just keep the stock bore for now so I won't need pistons and all. A couple questions before I start. Can I leave the bottom half of the casing on the frame to change the seals and get this all done? And where is the best deals for the full gasket kit I'm gonna need? Thanks for all the help so far guys

So do I have to remove the cylinders and drop out the pistons and all. I have a clymers and I'm gonna follow that but it really doesn't specify if it coulda been dine otherwise. Gotta pop off both side covers correct?

Did you ever figure out this issue cuz it sounds alot like what I'm chasing

Can the seal on the right side of the crank just be replaced or should they both be done? I can change the seal without disassembling the bottom end correct?

ok, so if its the crank seal would that be causing the power loss as well. Is the bearing easy to remove and replace or is it a bitch. The smoke is def more blue than white. But ya still thinkin crank seal huh?

Anybody with any input? Dont know where else to start at this point.

First run time today. There is no more white smoke but the bogging down is still there. Still smoking out the right side cylinder only and its def bluish smoke. I changed the mains out to 250 and it seems to do the exact same thing. Just a pretty large power loss from around 3/4 to full throttle. The smoke gets much thicker during this point too. Im gonna make sure the carbs are synced tonight. What other options do i have to try here. Like i said the carbs were both spotless and i set the float height correctly. The only thing im thinking is it has something to do with the needle. The number is y151 and i dont think thats the stock needle. I pulled the plug on the side thats smoking after a couple of good runs and its slightly wet and the prong seems to be kind of crusty black which i think would be too rich right?

OK so i got the removal kit installed and the idle screws set. Still smoking whitish out right side, gonna run it a little today to see if the bogging is still there. Tore both the carbs down and checked everything. It was def rebuilt like the guy said. Also set the proper float height on both. The carb on the left which os not smoking seemed quite a bit wetter inside when i first got it apart especially in the slide area. Dont know if that matters but the side that smokes was quite a bit dryer. The needle is # y151 and is set on the middle clip. Isnt the stock needle 5n7 or something?

Yup, I'm used to all that stuff from building cars for a long time. It's just I've never had experience with two strokes and carbs. Seems like such a simple setup but yet so many variables. I know I'll get it eventually its just now we have two kids and the amount of time that i can spend doing it has diminished quite a bit, LOL.. I'll install the tors kit and 240 mains tonight and let ya know if theres any change. I probably wont get to run it till sunday, but i can atleast fire it up. Thanks for all the good stuff so far. Really appreciate it.

Ok, i have everything apart again now. The float moves freely up and down. Gonna check the manual on how to set thge float correctly. Also got 240 and 250 mains. ill start with the 240's and go from there. gonna install the tors kit and make sure that is all in check. Before i had the bike apart i changed the headgasket cuz i was losing some coolant and i thought that was where the white smoke was coming from. Only had a few runs with it after that and the coolant seemed to stay level. Before i did the headgasket the motor seemed to be running hot and was blowing coolant and some steam out the overflow tube as well. The parking brake has been removed. Is there something i can check to make sure that was done right too? By the way they tried to delete the tors makes me nervous as to what else they half assed. The cutaways on the slides that your talkin about, it seems that there is only one way that the slide fits into the carb. It is notched on the one side and will only slide in all the way if the notch is matched up. Is this what you mean?

Thanks for the info man.. i was just worried about the shatty job that someone did of removing the tors system. Hoping it wasnt causing any probs. Anyways, if it were a stuck or misadjusted float what am i looking for exactly. Im gonna grab a manual this weekend, def gonna need it. I did a compression test tonight, cold motor, throttle open, and left cylinder was almost 120 or slightly more and the right cylinder was 105 -110. If it was a bad crank seal wouldnt it smell like tranny fluid bad. Its def a bit white but i cant distinctly smell tranny fluid. I also took both the carbs off again last night and the carb on the right cylinder seemed dryer than the other carb. On the piece that holds the needle. And how exactly do i remove the needle from that assembly? Thanks again for all this.

Is that a no on the tors kit?

The per son i bought it from did a half ass job of the removal. They just disconnected the throttle assemblies,carb connections and cut the cable going to the throttle but the tors bos was still connected. Idle seems high but it seems i can still adjust off the throttle thumb screws. The idle adjusment screws are not installed and still obviously has the tors throttle cable. The right cylinder which is smoking, the plug was wet with a grayish black color and pops when just sitting at idle. The left cylinder, no smoke and the plug looks as it should, no smoke whatsoever either. The k&n and slip ons were all done before me. i bought it exactly like this and cannot get it running right yet. im getting the correct removal kit and gonna install that immediately and guessing i need larger main jets as well. I took apart the carb on the side thats smoking and everything looked good. Didnt check the location of the needls though. but no gunk or buildup at all. What is the snail turd stock head pipe?

Anybody? All i can see that is changed is a k&n filter and fmf slip ons. i was also told that the reeds were changed and he put it Boysen. I'm assuming the main should be larger than 200. Thinking about trying somewhere around 250 or so? I put new plugs and ran it and the right cylinder which is smoking is kinda a gray black and the left cylinder looks as it should. I also notice some popping from the right cylinder as well. i can only notice it at idle though. i could really use some help here. I cannot get a handle on this.