Gikki44

Yea i have just recently done a rebuild. I actually also did a pressure test and couldnt find a leak anywhere. I can double check it just to make sure but it seemed fine before. And yea i split the cases all the way down to bare just so i could clean it all out and get new crank seals in. This is just not making sense.

No the kicker feels perfectly normal. And as far as the timing check that sounds like a good idea. I had just recently rebuilt the motor but the day i broke it in it ran fine but it jujst stil wouldnt hit the powerband but it atleast started and ran. Now towards the end of that day it seemed like it was starting to want and stall a bit if i let it sit at idle. I have pulled the flywheel off and checked it but never the timing. How exactly does the crank "slip" as youre saying? If this is what the problem is how do i go about correcting it?

I have tried everything possible now and not even close to starting. this past weekend i tried pull startting it forever and nothing. it'll act like its gonna fire then just completely bogs down. Cannot even give it the slightest bit of throttle. I have no cluse what else to look at this point. I really need some help here before i lose my mind!!

I'm gonna have to try and compression start it or pull it. The pick up gap is set, the slides are in correct and i got a perfect 32:1 premix. The only thing i can think is that everything is so wet from kicking the hell out of it that its just that flooded. im gonna pull the plugs and get em nice and dry and try it again. Also as far as i know the plug wires do not matter which cylinder they are on correct? I've also tried that with no success. Thanks for all the help so far guys. I would like to get this damn thing going by this weekend so i can get some riding time in!!

Thanks for the info. I'll dry kick it and see what happens. I got the carbs synced perfect. The eyelet on both is set. Opens and closes perfect and still won't start

Anybody got an idea of where else to look. I don't get it cuz it's all there but won't fire. The plugs get real wet but there is good spark. It's pissing me off.

Its no backfiring anymore it just wont start. I have tried swapping the wires before and it did the same thing. It def seems like a good spark. Very bright blue.

TORS is removed with the proper kick and yes the choke tube is in. Everything is perfect as far as what needs to be there and still cannot get it to start. 120 psi on both cylinders as well.

The left side was misfiring like hell. Pulled the carbs and noticed they were way out of sync. Got em perfect now and i cannot get it to start. Ive tried kicking the hell out ot it forever and nothing. Not even trying to fire. Got good spark in both cylinders, fuel is getting in the cylinders cuz the plugs are both quite wet. Anybody got any ideas?

Put the carb back in after fully cleaning it. It actually started on the third or fourth kick but it still just misses and carries on. Now it wont start and backfires like hell on every other kick or so.Any thoughts?

Pulled the carb and measured float height. Its perfect and not sticking up or down. It takes a hell of a long time kicking the hell out of it to get started and when it does finally start it just misses and dies and then it wont start for shit again. What else can i do here? i do have spark and just the other weekend it would start easier unstil i noticed it misfiring like crazy, then it started acting like this all the time. Now i cant even get it started and running.

I had the carb apart and it doesnt seem to be sticking at all. Could it still be sticking while its running if its not sticking when i pull it out and move it up and down just fine?

The balance tube is in. Ill check the boots to make sure of that. But if i try the filling of the carbs and that works does that mean something is up with the float? And would that cause it to run like this?

I'm gonna do a leakdown test next. The wires are good and it's been doing this since I bought it. Could an air leak cause this. I also notice when it warms up a bit I can see a slight bit of fuel coming out the brass nipple on the back of the left carb. Both carbs are spotless inside as well. The float is not stuck either. Already checked.

The left side cylinder isnt firing correctly. It takes a bit to get started then when it does it idles fine for a few seconds then starts popping and carrying on on the left side. I have checked pick up gap, tested stator and pick up coil. All are good. Put new spark plug caps and tried switching caps from side to side and still the same thing. The carbs are synced but it seems like its running out of fuel then just dies. It wont hit powerband worth of shit it feels like its just holding back so i guess it would be because its probably running on one cylinder. Any ideas as to what this could be?

OK im gonna check the gap on the pick up and also i cannot get a solid reading on my plug caps. Its lookin like they could use a change also. I imagine this could cause it too.

Now that i've done some searching im thinking i need to check my pick up coil gap. I never changed or checked anything when i put it back together. Would this possibly cause the loss of powerband and it running shitty? How exactly do i check and adjust the gap. The manual isnt too extensive on the description?

i just did a fresh rebuild of the motor so everything got cleaned pretty well. Its def something else. I think i might try a new coil pack or start with bigger mains and new spark plug caps. I have no idea what else

Any thoughts please????

Thats what im trying to figure out. The carbs are synced and i changed the mains to 240. When i pull the carbs there is fuel in them and the reeds too. I thought for sure it was going to be because of the bad crank seal. Now the plugs are not wet anymore but it is def not firing correctly. I can hear and feel the left cylinder popping and cutting out.

Ok, so after figuring out that the person before me had the crank seal on the right side backwards and assuming that was the problem I have done a fresh rebuild. The gear oil is no longer burning up however the loss of powerband has not improved whatsoever. The right pipe still smokes a bit of gray only after really rippin on it for a couple minutes and the left side seems to be missing quite a bit and im thinking this is the cause of the power loss. Now i just cannot figure out where else to look to fix this. I'[ve tried new plugs and larger mains thinking it was a lean condition. The plugs are not wet anymore but a slight brown/black on both. But the left side tailpipe is dry and the right is quite wet. My next guess would be something along the spark line. What do ya think. I also just noticed that the voltage regulator is supposed to have a ground wire to it and the only wire i see is the blue. Coming out of the same harness is a ground wire with a ring connector on it that is not attached to anything but the regulator is mounted to the chassis so that should ground it correct? I could really use some help here cuz i've about had it with this damn thing!!!

Just re-ringing. Why? The cylinders are perfect. Keeping it stock bore.

I'm going to use namura oem style piston rings for my rebuild. Anyone have any good use with them?

All sounds good. Yea i've been building cars, mostly imports with forced induction, for a pretty long time. There's always the arguement of the break in! More likely than not depending on the build i'll always give it some good juice on the first run. I think it helps to seat the rings much better. Always thought the same thing, if youre gonna treat it like a baby its gonna drive like a baby. Thanks for all the info guys. Cant wait to get all the parts and get rippin again!!

Alright, sounds good. Any recomendations for the break in. As far as the first start up and run?