Gummie_guy

well, ive been thinking about this a lot lately and i think its something i want to do. ive been looking for a coolhead of some sort and think i may have found one. i just need to know what i need to do in order to run 110 in my shee. motor is supposedly .040 over but i cannot say for sure because i havent opened it up. stock carbs with jets, some pipes and a gay ass boost bottle. im thinking i may want to order some domes for 93 octane and then some for the 110. what cc domes should i be buying for both? are there any other things i need to consider when switching to race fuel such as jet size or fuel screw adjustments? ive also been thinking about my timing, and am going to look at the stock plate mod if that would be a good thing to do. been reading around about porting and that its one of the best things you can do for power. if mine are in fact stock is porting something i can do by myself with fairly good results? ive got a bit of cylinder head porting experience for car engines. all help is appreciated thanks.

im looking for a cool head for my shee, if you have one let me know a price shipped and pics.

welcome to the kwik e mart. op- ive got an hp desktop and its a piece of shit as well. ive had to minor restore the thing at least once a month since ive had it. its gotten to be a pain in the ass too.

im not sure if the iso would contribute to them bein blurry, that sounds more of needing a faster shutter speed. iso will make it grainy. blurryness might also be contributed to moving the camera, i know my telephoto lense doesnt have a stabilizer and any little movement in the camera causes blurry pics. if thats the cause try shooting from a tripod if you dont already. this pic has an iso of 400 and looks fairly good. this pic was taken on a really sunny day and has an iso of 200. it looks a bit clearer than the one above. this one was taken in the evening with low light, its iso is 1600 and there is a ton of grain to it. i generally run all my pics through adobe lightroom and then add my "watermark" in photoshop.

my chain snapped a few months ago so i started a teardown. but if you do a bit of searching you can find some info around the site, thats what i did. i am going to try an RK xw ring chain with a 13t front and 41t rear.

either truck would be a decent truck. id stay away from dodge though, ive heard nothing but reliability problems from them unless its got a cummins. personally id probably go with an f150 if given the choice, as far as i know the spark plug problem was on early engine designs like the 96 4.6 in mustangs were notorious for it but it was fixed. i have a chevy 1500 and its a decent truck i love the power of a LS motor and you cant go wrong with a diesel, just make sure you change the spark plugs often.

it really takes playing around with the camera to get things how you want. personally i love shooting in full manual mode. it allows me to get the pics to show how i want them. i have a circular polarizer on my lense and primarily use the 18-55mm that came with the camera. i just got a neutral density filter that i cannot wait to mess around with. basically you have shutter speed( the 1/8, 1/200 etc) this will affect the amount of time is used to take the picture and also affects the darkness of the pic. a shorter shutter speed such as 1/200 might be too dark while a 1/6 speed will be fine. aperture can be used to affect darkness as well i believe. i havent fully grasped the concept of it other than that. and it can be adjusted to change the depth of field. ISO is based on a sensor on a digital camera i believe not sure but i know that it will affect how light or dark a pic is. an iso of 100 will have great clarity but will need longer shutter speeds depending on the environment. high light levels are best for this level. while an iso of 1600 lets a lot of light in and can have a lot shorter shutter speeds. a drawback to this is that the picture will be affected by "noise" and may appear grainy. id suggest doing a google search on those to get a better understanding of them and you might even be able to find something on taking pics of things in motion.

im in lansing and am always lookin for more places to ride.

this really sucks, i hope you get all the stuff back and that its not like the honda auto theft here in michigan. civics/tegs get stolen here and stripped and dumped within 3 days.

this is what i was thinking, thanks. got the swingarm bearing section torn apart today. turns out there was NO bearing on the right side, which would probably explain the loose sound/feeling when rocking it back and forth. probably helped contribute to my chain breaking as well. the shaft that was in there is all pitted too. good think i got a new set to put in there, it sure needs it.

just drill somewhere along it and screw one in? or is placement critical?

just about everyone ive talked to locally says razr or razr2 over holeshot. thats what im going to be getting. what does your gearing happen to be set at? ill be runnin 20 inch tires and i just got a 13/41 setup to test out next year. might end up going back to 14/41 stock though from the sounds of everyone else having dropped teeth.

thanks for this info. i already have the swingarm off so it sounds like its just a matter of taking out the old and putting in the new. i had thought i read somewhere that there was a special procedure for putting them in, that is why i asked.

Im doing a bit of a winter rebuild, new drive stuff, paint and general refreshment. I got some Swingarm bearings because i believe my old ones are shot. are they something i could put them in at home or are there specialized tools i would need to do so and would benefit from taking it to a local shop? i was also going to take the piece that holds the rear sprocket off if i could, how hard would it be to do this or should i leave it on and tape everything real nice in order to paint it? any help is appreciated.

well, i just went for it and ordered a 13t front sprocket. if i dont like it ill swap back and try and sell this one for half price lol.

hmm, might just be something ill have to test out. i dont really do dunes much but plan to this coming year. might buy a 13t and keep the stock one and interchange them depending on what i ride.

im going to be ordering new sprockets and a chain and just had a few questions before i do. searched around on here and found that dropping one tooth on the front will make it more "torquey" but shorten the length of the gear you are in, the same with going three tooths bigger in the back. now my main question i guess is about how much would dropping one in the front shorten each gear? will it have a significant impact on it where i would want to keep the stock gearing? or would it just be slightly shorter? in theory i would get quicker but lose some top end speed, which i have yet to hit 6th pinned. and what about dropping one up front and gaining three in the back? i ride mostly trails some tighter areas and then some open ones and my shee is supposedly .040 (i have yet to check for sure but thats what the PO told me) with pipes and kn intake without a lid on the airbox and a boost bottle. i want to say thats all the mods on it. any info on sprockets is helpful.

i would say either i made a bad buy or you made a fairly good one as long as it runs. that is if you are going to use it. a flip maybe not so much but its got potentioal imo. i paid the same for a 96 with fmf's supposedly .040 over(havent checked), boost bottle, kn filter crappy paint over the plastics and frame and needing the clutch worked on. but ive got about $100 into it other than the initial cost and ran it for about 3 months til i tore it down to repaint the frame.

now are you talking about the whole assembly or just the lever? i might just pick one up and if it ends up not what i want i can always sell it. my shee is under the knife at the moment anyways.

hmmm, i didnt even think of that. might try it anyways but is there a way to make it pull easier? i never had a problem on my ex gf's 400ex, so is there a possibility of greasing something and having it at least slide smoother because thats what i feel like mine is, more of a lever issue than from pulling the slides up.

hmm, i never thought of that. ill have to look into investing in one i suppose.

my thumb gets to the point where i cant even really ride anymore depending on the terrain. i mostly do trails though. an extended lever will help with this issue though?

i was searching for these too, walmart and all the other department stores only have the new ones. i want to say i saw ones without it at a speedway gas station. im not too sure on the spout design tho. if all else fails go around to garage sales or something.

Got some 27.5 jets in it now. started up and sounded better once i figured out i forgot the choke crossover tube after putting the jet in. low end picks up a lot better, still seems a little hesitant in the middle. would this mean that i should adjust the needle to allow more fuel in? i wasnt able to run it very long because my clutch cable broke the first time i tried shifting it. air screws are either 1.5 or 2 turns out, cant remember which i did. 340 main jet and 27.5 pilots, i dont know where the needle is. didnt learn about that til after i did the tors elim and its a PITA dealin with those springs to check.

since you guys are in michigan, do any of you know somewhere within about an hour of lansing that has trails, track or whatnot to ride. i cant find anything other than up north and have a buddy coming out with his quad and dirbike this weekend. and what is this thing in ionia?