Jump to content

ride.race.live

Members
  • Posts

    7,640
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    39

Everything posted by ride.race.live

  1. I would still heavily recommend getting the hinson spring loaded basket for the amount of hours you put on the bike... your going to burn out the cushions on standard baskets from so much use... and I also find the hinson basket far superior to other baskets ive seen... FAST should be able to get the hinson kit in as well so it could all be shipped from 1 place http://hinsonracing.com/product/straight-cut-gear-yamaha-yfz350-banshee-1987-2006/ For a temp gauge I dont find those inline temp gauges really useful, you cant see them while your riding nor can you see them at a red light unless you lean way over and look under for it... Trail tech makes an awesome digital temp gauge and for one heck of a price imo.... again this is something FAST can order in to keep everything together for shipping... https://www.trailtech.net/tto-1 Also for the amount you ride... It may be in your best interest to get an hour meter and a compression tester that way you could keep track of the condition of your motor. lets say every 10 hours do a comp test and at X hours consider changing out top and replacing crank seals ect... would pro long motor life and prevent catastrophic failure... Trail tech also makes a TTO hour gauge... their nice and small and can be mounted virtually anywhere... Crapy pic.. but heres a pic of my TTO Temp gauge and hour meter on my bike for example. and last but not least... pods SHOULD be ok when its raining. its when you go and hit fairly big puddles or what not they could get wet. the pre filters will deflect a lot of water but not all
  2. PSI or ASI radiators on ebay are moe then fine and should come with new hoses . For the amount of hours you put on that motor... i'd maybe consider going all out and investing in the hinson spring loaded clutch basket with straight cuts.... that way you wont have to stress about wearing out cushions at the same time. Ive always cleaned my cases in a clean parts solvent wash pay. ive used an acid based cleaner before and got this white calcium buildup all over the motor... didnt effect anything but didnt look pretty
  3. A pro mod trans and straight cut gears ect all the things mentioned will not effect how you can ride the bike... the only difference would be if you went and did some porting and or changed pipes but even then it wouldnt be to the point you need to launch it hard to get going. ANd yea Jeff at fast or even the shop Tricked mentioned in Aussie land could set you up with parts or even a full spare motor... (I forgot we had a AZ sponsor)
  4. LOL... Im not one to be sitting bitch on a sled or atv... I fuckin HATE it... I got 0 faith of other riders lol
  5. solid buy Canadian... Im not a HUGE fan of LSR because ive always seen them as a little over priced / paying for the name type of deal but they are reliable and well built arms... also if your ending in the end run at a fair price for the complete package.... bonus! I think if you got the cash to burn in the linkage its a + for sure!
  6. Straight cuts would be over kill but would it hurt it? absolutely not. Where straight cuts shine is on bikes that are constantly launching hard under heavy loads... so on those dead stop hard launches on pavement with street tires is where it would technically help.. but on a more so stock bike its not a deal breaking option in my opinion. (especially when your looking at the cost) im saying 100 hours is lots.. ofcourse some bikes see well over 100 hours but 100 hours on a motor before needing rebuild isnt horrible in my eyes. Other things you can look into is your water pump... if its original i'd consider changing it.. either to a new aftermarket or OEM one. just for safe keeping its a cheap swap out.
  7. The most popular route is Hot rods but I think wiseco cranks are ok too? (someone can chim in that knows more on wiseco cranks) ive always just preached HR. You could upgrade just your outer bearing to the proper *max load* bearings. (i'd pick them up from a reputable builder on here as there's more then 1 type of maxload and installing the wrong one will be no good. Get some good gasket sealer such as 1211 or yamabond (plenty other kinds you can use too) Couple tips and tricks... Get yourself some baggies and label EVERYTHING in separate baggies. Take a lot of pictures before you take apart and after... If you think you see something you might forget how to put back write some notes.. TQ wrench for the build is def a plus when your inexperienced.. the main things I usually tq is the flywheel, base cyl, head, PTO gear on crank and clutch basket. Couple spots over looked for leak downs... use sealant on the PTO keyway and around the PTO gear (its know to have an air leak there) Also use some sealnt on both sides of your intake gaskets (for reeds and boots) I duno about others but every build ive done ive always found air leaks around my intake if I didnt put sealant. Also using vaseline on your cool head o rings helps keep them in place when you drop it on the cyls. Carbs are straight forward and shouldnt be an issue for you.. nothing much to them!
  8. 6-7 hours a day is a crazy a lot of time! your not going to find much lasting you.... if you swing 100+ hours on a motor i'd say it did good... If you do ride that much you need to start wrenching yourself or else that bike is going to make you go broke. You said you did the top end once way back.... odds are it had an air leak.. You have the clymers so thats 80% of the battle.... do some searching on here there's TONS of build threads with detailed pictures. ALso invest in a leak down tester or build your own. What crank are yo ugetting for that kind of price on a kit? Dont go to any knock off cheapo crank. Also to help increase motor life you may want to drop your compression from 19cc.... depending on your elevation thats some high kicking comp... Get your comp around 140ish at the very most and you probably will want a squish on the looser side for those long WOT runs.
  9. Get a clymers manual it will help you loads on your 1st couple times building it. Also if you do some searching on here. there's a good few build threads with step by step instructions. If you do ask additional questions.. to help others help you... make sure you tell people what mods and specs are of the bike... Also if you do plan on building it yourself... #1 thing you need to look into getting is a leak down tester (or make yourself one)
  10. well everything motor wise is going to get hot.... and if your temp sensor isnt reading that high i'd say your ok.... unless your temp sensor is out of whack.. but if it was too hot you would be spewing coolant. Nothing on your motor should be "warm to touch" other then your stator cover and clutch cover which MAY get a warm at best.... why is this being a concern for you? is it not running good Coolant temps wll depend on motor build.... on my old stock stroke ported motor I was hovering 150-160 (with various cooling mods) My 10 mil cub hovers around 160-180
  11. sooo rude.... Yes they do fit When you try it please come back and let us know if it fits...
  12. I duno... in my opinion if your going to spend the cash an added couple hundred for LT arms is well worthwhile.
  13. Make sure you decide on what a arms you want before you order.. As different brand arms will require different shock specs. Same deal for swinger lenght. But yea the elka stage 3 kit is the best bang for your buck... heck even buying used by the time you get front and back shocks your not far off of what they would cost you to go that new route...
  14. Thruthfully i'd recommend the legacy stage 3 kit for front and back shocks.. its by far the best bang for your buck... For the alba arms (LT) their a great budget arm however from what ive seen people complain about the bushings wearing out real quick (may become an annoyance) but by far the best budget arms imo... spending anything more i'd just recommend the Fireball LT arms... Shipping is where it gets tricky! The more you ship in 1 box the more your going to save HOWEVER the higher the value on the box which = higher chances of fee's once it hits the border. I'd still recommend dealing with a shop that would be willing to work with you on how the package is sent... AKA saying your sponsored and writing down the value / expense. or just writing down the value from the start. Otherwise youl just need to keep an eye on the FS threads here and look around on Kijiji for stuff... but in most cases your almost better off going new if you can spend the coin.
  15. most ok... but there still is a market for custom work orders... not everything is just generic. Thats when people start to compare a parts assembler vs an actual builder.
  16. I'd like to assume most of their orders end up being custom work orders.... especially lets say on trophy trucks... but those types of customers dont deal with those idiotic front desk dipshits... I highly doubt if a trophy truck driver / mech called fox and said I need a custom length shock for this their going to say sorry but we dont do custom shocks whats the year and make of your vehicle and I can give you our standard shocks for that application... uhhh
  17. all that info steve is on the work order which is completed by the front desk jock... Its like they dont know wtf their ordering... its like someone ordering evols and the dude writing in Floats on the work order not knowing that Evols and floats are far from the same. When you call you you get directed to the part that deals with lets say ATV's... they are supposed to specialize in that. They should have some kind of common sense and some minor knowledge on wtf their selling and what can be done. If you go to a car dealership and a sales man tries to sell you a car but cant figure out how to open a trunk or tell you what the benefits of going from a KIA to a BMW there's an issue.
  18. The issue with fox is not the grunts building the shocks though... Its the guys at the front desk that are dealing with the public, you would think they would have some kind of knowledge on the shocks they sell and what they can do with those shocks. Fuck even Taco bell employees know the difference between a quesadilla and a hard shell beef taco.... Employees should know the basics on what they sell not be complete clueless baboons. Also when you call fox you usually pick a phone line that deals with the "sport" you are wanting... IIRC its not just one general phone line for all their shocks and items Put in a order for X shock... person inputting the order is clueless and is where the issue is. Can you shorten and modify a fox shock... sure you could.. but to some fox front desk sales thats impossible. its also impossible to revalve their shocks to differenct specs.... hmm lol... thats just on expeirence I had lol I wouldnt go as far as to exact set up needs as far as set up to PSI goes.. but any dealer I go to usually knows the basics or atleast takes 2 mins to look into it so they dont look like a complete idiot trying to sell me something.
  19. Claude, I wouldnt be the one bit shocked if that were true.... The people working at fox are fucking clowns, fucking half retarded chimps could run the company better then they do (this is not counting the grunts doing the actual building) I've had good dealings with ATV G and was instantly taken care of when I had bushing issues with a set of alba LT arms I've dealt with Jorge and Mike from there and got taken care of... I'll preach it again... Fox Services suck BIG BLACK DONKEY DICKS and nothing less.... They prob had to send back your order 3 times because of incorrect shocks or something lol
  20. how much further out? Good chances the frame can be slightly tweaked... stock banshee frames are wet noodles (I wouldn't stress much if the bike rides straight and fine)
  21. lol claude making new friends.... reason I hate dealing with ebay for most part... always better off finding someone to shitp it for you so the shipping forms can be fixed accordingly... so you arnt left with any stupid surprises.
  22. yea sometimes they will check the package and yea.. most dont mention anything about the fee's as thats usually paid out by the receiver and done at the border. I know Fedex offers some kind of set up to where they can charge the shipper the fee's upfront but not sure ify ou have to be an account holder or what not. (prob not worth your while just doing this one shipment.) No stress on it non the less.... Claude is well aware he will get brokerage fee's... its to be expected when getting stuff shipped from the US... USPS tends to process too many packages i guess to bother going through the whole brokerage process so most of the time we get parcels with 0 surprises which is nice. Non the less there's not much "extra" for the shippers in the US to ship to CAD or else where , if im right just 1 additional declaration form. Usually the front desk person guides ya through it so there's no delay or issues. There's other small loop holes ect that I usually request when getting shipments but I have not bothered in the past esp with guys that weren't sure on shipping to CAD in the 1st place. Non the less claude got a rockin deal and its always nice to get guys that are willing to take the little extra time to ship over the border!
×
×
  • Create New...