icemanscold

After 8 years of my banshee collecting dust, its time to get her running again. My sig says what's in it. I put a set of 33 pwk carbs on it, and never could get it to run right after that. I was running turbo blue 110 octane fuel. Now I want to trail ride it, run just premium fuel, switch back to stock carbs so I can run an airbox with no lid. I had trail porting done by grand river racing, which is no longer in business answer my questions. I believe the reason I went to bigger carbs was the fact I was running my stockers dry of fuel. What problems do you guys think I gonna run into? Should I put 19 or 20 cc domes in my cool head to help with the fuel change? Any other advice? Can stock carbs hold up, or should I look into some 28 mm carbs to make it run right with an airbox?

My vent tubes are not clogged, I blew lightly compressed air through the lines both were heard bubbling in the tranny. There is no coolant mixed in with the tranny oil. Any other suggestions?

Riding around my banshee, just dusted her off from winter. Now somehow Tranny oil is flowing out the vent tubes, the ones that go to a tee and go over by the handle bars, from the back of trans and from water pump area. WTF I did not over fill the tranny because eventually it got really low and at high rpm's still flows out. Checked the outside of motor for leaks with starting fluid but no leaks. Its like the trans is building up to much pressure and forcing the oil out. Why? Bad crank seal or something? Any help from you gurus would greatly help me in this ingma.. I have been through a lot of shit with this machine but never anything like this.

Anyone know what the float height should be on 33 PWK kehnin carbs should be? Any info would be helpful.

What about straight toluene? How much to add to gas to get those octane readings?

I had my stock fly wheel lightened with the vitos degree key, and for 2 years of hard riding and asphalt drag racin at the strip, had no problems yet to speak of.

At my work the first thing ya do is fire up the mig and put a nut over it, filler up with weld, spin it off. If that does not work, then we get the tig welder on high heat and same process with the nut over it, once its welded just spin the nut off by wrench. Never failed us yet, even with taps broken off in there. If that does not work then you gotta use a EDM machine. This thing literaly eats the target steel out of a hole with out damging the orginal threads. You do not even need to tap out the holes with it.

This is where I bought some of my stuff. http://www.poly-pros.com

I have an 96 shee and the brake light is on when the head lights are on. I used an 99 shee's brake light and a raptors handlebar switch so that my rear brake light works when I apply the front bakes.(96 shee's rear brake light is always on with lights, it does not flash brighter when used like newer ones)

Well first off I would not go to that dealership anymore, the man has no idea what he is talking about. With my mods it was essential that I have a degree key, helping me advance my timing to allow my machine to run better with all my mods. Keeping an eye on your spark plugs has saved me countless problems, but as for a down side on the vitos degree key I have found absoultley none.

When I hit 90 psi its time for me to rebuild You must have a problem with yer guage. You have to hold the throttle wide open too, during testing.

I run 18cc domes here in mich. and I got on a fresh rebuild around 190 psi. You may have a problem with yer tester.

With my cylinder psi I tried premium gas 93 octane, ran like shit. Now I drive half an hour jusst to buy turbo blue which is 110. Runs like a sumbitch. But here in Michigan its 3.99 a gallon.

This happened to me several times. Finally I installed a pancake bearing in there to act like a throwout bearing. Works awesome, and when you put it first gear you do not get that slam in the rear end like you do stock

As of now mine runs about 185 psi. If you got porting I would definately recommend having it welded and balanced. Just added insurance that you shit wont let loose.

I use the magura clutch system. With out it ya get arm pump within five minutes with the set up I got goin.

I run duals because of my carbs. I would believe that runnin one will clog up faster, verses each havin their own to breath from. I have had no problems yet.

I drive over them with my truck on the grass. Works well enough for me, pops the bead every time.

This is how it all starts, then one day ya wake up and find yourself goin' bout as fast as it can go. It takes time and money to get there. I started with the air box(make sure you re-jet), boost bottle, better tires, all of this can be found cheap on ebay. Good place to start tho.

I do n ot want a digital tach............. Apparently the only way I will get a dial tach is with rz cases.

Someone correct me if im wrong, but a two stroke motor has 2 pulses per stroke. It goes by the pulses per stroke of the crank. Which is why a 4-stroke motor tach will not work. Pulses are determined by how many cylinders are in that stroke. There are many more pulses per stroke on a 4-stroke motor, making a standard tack read off the charts when at half throttle, that is when I hooked it up to the shee.

I have a dial tach on my mustang. Love it, and it is a lot easier to read when your screamin along. Plus it gives you that look of don't mess with me.

I called autometer and they said that they do not make one. All I can find online is digital ones. Does anyone know where I can buy a dial type tach? I have seen them here at silver lake, but always forget to ask where they got them.

Is there any other way to get more spark out of the shee than this? Or is this the best thing?

I run 2 K&N filters with outerwears, no air box, and I am always worried about getting water in them. Like he said when you come up to water pin the throttle carry the front wheels, doin this I have yet had a problem. When I go on trips I always clean the filters after every day riding to insure good filtration.