frog
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Everything posted by frog
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Hi I just acquired a +10 swingarm and was wondering how the hillshooter shock from cascade would be. I currently have a +6 with the heavy duty spring and a revalved shock but I don't think it will hold the extra 4 inches or is there any other thing I could do without spending a arm and a leg.
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My bike Shearer bb inframe(465) 10 mil wifes bike Cpi's inframe sb(421) 4mil son's bike FMF fatty's (370) 4mil daughters bike FmF gnarly and also the spare bike has shearer inframe pipes on it(421 serval) 4mil.
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So I want to know if they still make the banshee in other countries. I live in Canada and I have a orange 2008 banshee which I thought was the last year. I went out riding last week and I guy pulled up beside me with a 2010. He Said he was from India and you can still buy there. Does yamaha still make them?
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Like I said 10 mil and your done t'ill you get bored. Already looking to create a 20mil. The quest for speed is a fuck'in disease and there is no cure..
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So I recently built a 465 10 mil.This is the best option next to buying a 4 stroke.The response from this motor is unbelievable. Bottom end all the way to the top end.It pulls the hole time. My set up -wampus cylinders(clean up ports) with wiseco blaster pistons 68mm -modquad cool head with 23cc domes(runs on pump gas) -TDR forged 10 mil crank -Hinson straight cut gears and basket -Shaerer big bore pipes -Keihin pwk 39mm carbs with cheriot billet bowls and intakes -v froce 3 reeds with cascade reed stuffers -case trenching and porting from wicked atv -1-5 dunnable overide from Heerjugs racing I destroy all of my buddies with hopped up trx 450's ,yfz 450's and the raptors. Got all the info for this build from this site. Thanks for all the great how to articles and know how.
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I should rephrase my statment about trail riding to back road rading. Its all old loging roads that are covered with dune sand and some mine taillings roads.They are so sandy that we are running dune tires. I built the big bore to beat my sons bike. No trees to hit but there are some woops. Just thought the drag pipes would look killer but if they won't take any abuse I'll go to the inframes. Will the R2's be OK for the big bore or do they make big bore pipes or should I just buy shearer.
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just wondering how much difference between inframe and outframe pipes .Heres my mods 10mm stroker with 465 cub dune ported with pwk 39mm carbs(gas) And how durable the drag pipes would be for trail riding.Thanks
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Price!
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Well I guess I'll go with the forged crank seeing as they last just as long as the billet.Thanks for the input..
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Will be buying a new crank and was wondering how much better is a billit over a forged crank. Also how are the TDR cranks.
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I have the dunnable override tranny from Herrjugs and it's "WICKED" JUST ROLL THREW THE GEARS.Make the call I guarantee you'll love it and it won't let you down.
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What jets are you using? Fill out this form...
frog replied to vortechblown306's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? - CPI inframe 2) What type of airfilter do you have? - K&N 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all - PODS 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 850 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 45 6) What size main jets are you using? 158 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 75f 8) Do you have a port job? - yes HJR Dune Hill Shouter 9) What kind of carbs? -keihin A/S pwk 10) What size carbs? 35mm -
I ran both all weekend and the onle thing I noticed was the small bore pipes ran hotter.Other then that good luck telling the difference.I even tried my cpi small bore pipes and the shearer smoke them.You can feel the difference between the cpi and the shearers .I wish we had a dyno machine in this shit hole town to see the difference in HP. Well anyways I'm done and the big bores shearers WIN! NO NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE in power.
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I'm no expert but I don't notice any difference. They both run strong!
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Well I went for my first rip with the jugs installed and it hauls ass. If I'm losing with the bb pipes I can't tell. I'll try my small bore pipes tomorow to see the difference.
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I just aquired a set of 472 serval cylinders and was wondering what size carbs would be best.I have a set of pwk 35 or are these carbs to small. also will be running shearer bb inframe pipes.Thanks.
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So I just did the leak test and only lost 1\2lb after 15 minutes so I think its OK. I won't lie I thought I removed to much material to reseal the cases.I never knew anything about a leak down test before I joined this site .THANKS for all the great how to articles and also a big thanks to all the members .The dealer here told me the cases had very little play room and mine were finished. Guess I was lucky!
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Install the lock-up and never worry about it again not to mention you can enjoy the easy pull on the clutch.I'll never understand why people spending the money on a serval set up don't just spend the extra couple of bucks on the lock-up. PIECE OF MIND!
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Well I put jb weld and resurfaced them on the glass and sand paper.Surface is perfect.It took quite a bit to bring it back.Hope I didn't take too much material off . I installed the crank in the cases without the yamabond and seems pretty good.Well wish me luck.I Never had any problems with my other banshee cases .I bought the bike with a seized crank.Who knows what the guy did to it but for $500.00 for a 2001 I'll take a chance.
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It's a low spot.I marked the cases with a permanent marker and did a rub on the sand paper glass and its all even except on the spot on the pto side.Low spot still black as night.How much material can I remove. I did both the top and bottom.Top is perfect.Can I just put a thin layer of jb weld to fill the imperfection and sand it smooth.Its on the intake side of the case about one inch wide by gasket width.My camera is on the blink so I can't show pixs.How much material can I remove before I have to buy new ones.
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I just changed my crank (all new seals).I did a leak down test and it only held for 3 minutes .So I checked with the soapy water found no leaks.Installed clutch cover and check the vent tube in water and what do you know bubbles.Took it appart again and check matting surface and I could see a little flaw on pto side(could see gasket glue).I put a thicker layer yamabond gasket to try and seal it, put all back together and did another test and it failed again. Can I resurface the matting surfaces with 400 grit sand paper on a 5\8 thick glass. I did this with my kx 250 to clean up the surfaces and had no problems.Hope this can be done to these cases to seal them up.
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So I have a leak between my cases.little air bubbles coming out the rear case vent hose.I alreay tried to midly resurface the cases with emery cloth 12x12'' on 5\8 glass and the the surfaces are PERFECT.There was a little inperfection on the right side(pto).tried diferent sealers(rtv,permatex,threebond) still leaking.Leak down test only holds for 4 minutes then leaks out.Is there another way to seal them.I even changed all the fasteners,new torque wrench,new crank.The only reason I opened it up was the install 4mm crank.Please Help!
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10 midrange horsepower over other pipes.So I guess just putting these pipes on you would gain 20 hp.Would like to see what other builders have to say about this.Hard to beleive!
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Keihin pwk 33's, you will lose a little on the bottom but top end will be wild.There's a set on ebay going pretty cheap.
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Thanks for all the info I'll be buying one tonight.Heres the site http://www.mullengineering.com/ Once ahain THANK-YOU.

