JSHEE34756

This is a dumb question, I live in what my profile says, But somthing I don't get, There is a reserve coolant bottle attached to your airbox and a hose that just lets coolant spit out all over when its hot, I started to get annoyed by it dripping on my exhaust so I put a knot in that hose and now the over pressure coolant instead of being wasted goes to the reserve coolant bottle just like cars, What the fuck is the point of that hose that waste coolant like that? I'd rather it back flow into the reserve bottle instead of dripping and steaming on my exhaust where I get to breath in them nice toxic sweet vapors.

OP, I had a pretty good topic about this which you can find here on HQ under the product review section Topic is TRANSMISION OIL, I been running a brand and still have no metal glitter in it after many hours of hard riding. It's alittle stiff at shifting before its fully warm but showing excellent results. And no matter what brand you like I think Motor oil is bad. WHY? Motor oil is not designed for gears or clutches which is why I don't recommend them, and I have not tried ATF type F but that fluid has been obsolete since 1981. Many new oils/fluids has made great improvments with base oils and additives against wear since 81. Don't get me wrong, I have not tested type f yet so maybe its holding up against wear in the banshee. Curious myself to know, Type F is for quick grab and release of clutches but gear wear is what I want to know. I'd rather replace my clutch anyday before the more expensive gears.

Good deal, At least it was somthing simple, Tearing into your engine and carb would be the last thing to resort to. I think I am going to keep viewing this topic over and over and not for info either. For some reason I can't stop looking at the comment 5 up from wesw. Oh Wait, I know. That some nice ass and tities.

I developed this problem and it turned out to be nothing more than a fouled plug on the kick side. It would idle but very rough and miss fire like crazy on the right cylinder. Switched both plugs out and back to new, However it appear that my right side is burning richer than the left so my jetting could use a tune up. BTW, the right side as I mentioned is the kick starter side same as your problem. Just some guesses. If these are ruled out pull both plugs leave the coil wires on and kick it and see if both sides have even spark, If ok, Tear the engine and inspect the pistons and rings for wear, Last would be a carb issue possibly, Other than that I think I almost stated as much as you can check for the possible problem your having.

Got them, This thread is dead, Thank you to all HQ members

I am still looking for some OEM heel guards that snap into the rear fenders and the OEM nerfs. Anyone have a nice set please PM me. Whats your asking price. I also have a stock front bumper I can throw in the deal.

Never heard of them Timesert, May have to try them next time I have a problem which I hope is never, Here is what I used, They are many different sizes and types. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=helicoil&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=11816736782579245461&ei=zR_iS8brLcaqlAeF8sj-AQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CDMQ8wIwAw#ps-sellers

Yes,This is what I was going to say to, I did a helicoil on a spark plug well that was made of very soft aluminum block, Put a 100k plug in it them I dumped JB weld in the plug well to ensure it never gets touched again, 5 years now and it still holding. It was stripped bad, The car is A POS so when it breaks its going to the grave yard. Just make sure you run a bottle of cheap oil through you gear box to flush all them metal shavings out when your done.

Got a person for the hubs so far, Thanks anyway. Still looking for stock heel guards Contacting you above about the lights.

Looking for the following, Front stock headlights in nice condition Rear taillight Non bent front wheel hubs with rotors both sides, "Want most" Or Them black heel protectors that snap to the rear fender body to the foot rest What ever they are called, "WANT MOST I have body plastics blue in color Rear, Gas tank cover and front fenders without fenders "RACING STYLE LOOK" They do have some scratches but they are not junk either. I will buff them out best I can. The mosted wanted I marked, Thanks Hope you can help make another SHEE fully restored.

LOL, Tig, Mig, I meant the same thing, I got one at work and it can weld aluminum. But yeah, I did not think it could weld anything this thin. Thought I ask anyway. Hey yeah I'm going to PM you above.

Well, If anyone has read my last topic about my brother rolling my SHEE to update, Its been a slow painful and yet very hands on experience, Got all new maier plastics for it today, Been spraying new paint on things that needed it cleaning it all up and making everything like new, Just still have the frame to get str8 where it got bent and now I learned the radiator has been also damaged, It has a slight leak at the top of it where the bolt goes to bolt it to the frame, Looks like the weld for it peeled back right in that small area, Just slightly but where the thickest part of the RAD is. My brother says JB WELD, LOL, I have access to a mig welder which I can use a shielding gas with, Or is it a hopless cause and just get a new one? Keep in mind, Its my brother. Trying to save every $$ for him. If the mig may work what gas is best if anyone ever done aluminum this thin? ARGON?

Your correct, Oil expert agrees which I had a chat with, Its equal to 10-40w motor oil and he said motor oil or atf in a atv with a high shockload rate which I explained is suicide on a geared trans, He said he sees why I switched, However he does recommend I step back to a GL4 gear oil, No matter what brand, STOP USING MOTOR OIL! Ur killing ur gears and clutch prematurley! I will still go on myself to tell you to use a moly based oil for shock loading protection. This topic should be dead now unless we have some feedback on glitter results.

I don't want to offend anyone or anything so I hope no one took me like that, I only posted this topic as my personal experience with it now and just wanted to share, BTW, I have a typo above, 35 hours I meant 25 hours but still that is enough for results. I just hate getting bashed about somthing when I am only trying to maybe help and they have not even gave it a shot yet. The spectra I will try to. This brand I am diehard over though. The only reason I am pointing out the #267 80-90w is that its universal which I now know and is all my local dealer ever carrys, otherwise I would use there other gear oils. The company history and lack of advertiseing aswell as only truckers and farmers mostly knowing about this stuff is what I like. That tells me somthing, there is no need to push a oil if its good, And truckers and farmers are the real testers not us, They make a living off there equipment so they know somthing. Also I wanted to clarify, The part above about moly and its extreme pressures where the rear wheels hoping off the ground under full thorttle and landing, The correct word for that where gears see 95% of there wear would be shock loading, And our banshees have alot of shock loading when we ride. Whoever has time research it. Its interesting.

Read 2 post up man. Nice quad you got to. I will say one thing, You HQ members know how to make banshees shine,

Moderator, delete this topic. What the hell do I know. Only been tearing transmissions and engines apart for 15 years and testing oil propertys as a personal interest. As far as tight shafts and seals and what not on the banshee, They are the same as a regular high proformance manual trans, Also this oil is highly recommended with limited slip rears which itself has a very similar type wet clutch, Maybe you guys drive in cold below freezeing climates, If so then I would without doubt tell you to use a liter oil or whatever, I live in florida which is 70+ most of the year with 95 hells hot temps not uncommon in the summer. Again I want this topic deleted. I will continue to use what I know by fact is superior in protection. EPA has alot to do with what the manual suggest in cars and what not, As well as every single type of climate extreme is taken into consideration so the trans shifts good no matter what from the factory. Bottom line is most people are to stupid to know what to use in the right type of climate or even know to change any oil but there engine oil period, So manufactures throw a oil in which they feel will hold up no matter what the temps are as long as it shifts nice or meets EPA energy standards. Wear is of no concern to them, By then the warranty will be up.

I have no clutch slipage at all, I also been running schaffers 7000 racing 20-50w which also has Moly in it with my r6 for 9k now which uses the engine oil to lube the trans and wet clutch also, Again no slipage and lowered operating temps by 10f and I in no way drive like I am fat, old, and on a honda goldwing. MOLY is the reason this oil is all I will use. RP and REDLINE have it to. Only them few have the formulation right so it will not come out of suspension and form a solid. . I am going to tear the banshee down maybe somtime this week and look for signs wet clutch related issues. But judging by how clean the oil is, I think I have no issues to worry about, Nor would I post such a topic knowing full well I am praising a oil that is not recommended by far from the owners manual, Then again the manual suggesting running a 24:1 or even worse a 20:1 mix if not using yamahas oil is absolute BS also. I keep going but this is a topic for oilguys website.

Actually man, I don't believe this is hypoid only oil, Schaffers replied to me and others on bobistheoilguy and highly recommends it in manual transmissions "NO INFO ABOUT WET CLUTCHES" I have it in my dodge stealth r/t trans and 30k now it still looks very good. Judging by the lack of glitter in the banshee I am happy as hell with it. The clutch I will note and if anything happens I will post it up. If anyone has ever used royal purple this oil has a similar chemistry with even better stuff. RP actually probably copied the formula. The MOLY is what I like, MOLY makes oil wrap around and cling to things as well as bonding under extreme pressures where non moly oils get squeezed out, This would come into play when I am hoping the rear wheels off the ground under continuous hard throttle and landing back down. Anyway, I will experiment with it and post pics and info of the results. Thanks for the more mature replys below my last reply. I been studying oil propertys for the past 5 years now and this brand has impressed me the most.

I am more than aware its hypoid gear oil, BANSHEE transmission, GEARS! 30w, Sparkly metal flakes after maybe 3 short rides, Metal flakes = gear wear, More friction less power? Not at all! Any metal flakes after 35 hours? NO! Runs great with 80-90w, YES. Does other people use belray gear saver 80w? YES! I never understood why manufacturers would recommend motor oil or ATF in a manual geared transmission other then easier shifting when cold. Nuff said.

Done, Not much to see, There is going to be an all out war with my family. Bascially my brother is divorced and is now mommy and daddys boy again. My parents are trying to down play my quad even know they don't know shit about atvs, My brother has insulted me offering only $100, LMFAO! Glad I have a good wife with a way better family on her side which I will be finally relocating back in PA to soon. My side will be disowned if I have to do it the hard way in court and thats when every part will be included, Lets see, New frame, New front wheel hubs both sides, New plastics all around, New lonestar racing handle bar neck, labor, What is that? Damn near $1300 or so right? Photos, http://pbckt.com/s1.Nfsw I included my R6 since I love yamaha so much. Extra 2 pics for the hell of it. That will never get touched, Nor my shee again. $100! My face is red from the elevated blood pressure from such a insult.

Yes nice 2 quad above, Maybe someone can help me out, I uploaded 10 pics, And now there no where in my gallery.

Now I am off work, DAMAGE, Rear axel good, Engine, pipes, nerfs, A arms, Ball joints, tie rods, Ect good. Front wheels Not so good, Either the hubs or rims are slightly bent front wheels have a slight wobble. The frame bent by the radiator, Don't know if he may have bent the entire frame slightly or not, The silencers are bowed slightly inward and the skid plate is not even on both sides ever so slightly. After I got off work had a cig and drank about 3 beers thinking, I come to the conclusion that this bitch rolled twice. By him telling me it rolled on top of him and him landing in the fence about 20 feet from the ground marks First off, 4th gear before a sharp turn he rolls it, It rolls over the first time and over top of him, As its coming back up for a second spin it throws him into the fence and the SHEE ends up upsidedown. "SHOULD HAVE BEEN A DETECTIVE" uh no, screw pigs, The Bars neck and bent frame section and possibly rear I included pics in my gallery. Best I can do with upload limits. Sorry for the lack of detail. I cannot find anywhere on the frame other than where I took pics around the radiator of the frames paint cracked or welds. I am charging him $350 which is damn generous. Enough for the rear fender and gas tank cover, Even know he scuffed the front to. Damage again I think is minimal and will have it back to even better condition in less than 2 weeks. I will see after I ride again. My lesson learned. Never ever let anyone touch your shit even family. At least I respect somone elses shit if they give me a chance for a quick burn. I guess he could not believe I was tearing it up and he was not. YEAH! NEWBIES ARE SUPPOSED TO DO TAKE IT EASY! BTW, If this was a zilla, It would have been totaled. I am sorry my spelling quadzilla.

I'll post pics of it tomorrow or maybe tonight around 1am, I am at work now, I only had about 30minutes to survey the damage. I am glad he is ok, I refused to let him ride without a helmet. I told him not to take it out of 2nd gear and warned him about the powerband. What does he do, He takes it up to 4th gear on a field which is already rough enough to where I can hardly stay in 4th gear. Hit the 4th gear powerband right before a sharp turn with a wire fence, He turns flips it, it rolls over him and he is then thrown into the fence; All in all the damage is minimal. The rear fenders and scratched and chewed up to hell, Gas tank cover scuffed. The quad I drove home and it felt ok so the rear is ok I think. The axel is solid as hell so I am pretty sure that is ok to. It still steers ok. Basically the handlebar neck is almost rubbing the gas tank which is cause of the frame got pushed back right in that area. The rest other than I stated seems good. So maier is the only plastics dealer? The thing I am so heated about is this is vehicle number 7 now which he crashed. All the others were his cars thankfully. He has a 4 cylinder eco car now which is what he needs to stick with.

Yeah, Nobody will ever touch my quad again but me. My dumb ass brother that knows nothing about banshees nor did he listen to anything I told him not to do rolled my quad. Being an idoit trying to show off on a quad he never road before. He bent the handlebars, Chewed up the rear fenders and gas tank cover and also bent the frame around the handle bar shank. He will be paying for every single item, As far as plastics, Maier is the only reseller for this? The frame he thinks he can heat up and bend back, It bent about 1/2" back so the gas tank cover will not line up now And the handle neck is pushed back. The bars themself are an easy fix, Its the frame I am more concerned about. It looks like it only bent from the U bend where the handle bar neck goes through. MAN AM I EVER HEATED! What a JERK!