Phelps

are you sure you did a compression check? was it recently? it's either not firing, or you have hung a ring. every cat hissing, backfiring bike i have ever ran accross was a coil or dead piston..... hissing/backfiring is loaded up fuel in the exhaust firing off from either no spark or not enough compression to fire it.

i wouldnt bother with the 320's 310's or back down to 300's

and please learn how to check a plug. warm the bike up on old plugs.... get on road. kill bike and swap to new plugs. start the bike and run it wot until you max 6th out. pull the clutch and kill the bike. once stopped put old plugs back in and ride home. cut the threads off and post pic's or take the pic so we can see down in the plug. should only be a brown ring down at the bottom of the porcelain.

that looks good to you for a one mile trip? that plug shouldn't have hardly any color to it after one mile. put the 300's back in and post a pic. i think you're going the wrong way......

that's too rich

in all racing or drag racing? to me 3 tunable circuits for all around throttle positions is better than one. (for fine tuning) i never could get a set of lectrons to act right at 1/4 throttle and needles were so high i couldn't afford custom cuts for tuning every point of the needle.

great post john and yes. what started the argument was special steve talking about running down a road or wtf ever it was wot for a mile solid. he was also on a new setup (alky) and we were discussing it would never last. i included load in almost every post. if it be a hill, air, gearing as long as it's loaded it will do it just fine. just like my little bet. go out and run a full mile wot and never letting out. not many places to do this and if it's a fire road in the debate the guy is going to lose. i wouldn't be in here arguing the fact if i had no clue as to what causes engine failure at wot. some ppl think it's just magic. you can run as long as you want. little details also slip ppl's minds such as backing out a few times in the mile, cracking out of the throttle, etc. the bicycle was a very good way of explaining it for the lesser knowledgeable guys.

shitcan the pipes and buy some super badass shearer pipes

i like green. he makes me look like less of a asshole.

hesitation can be lean or rich. rich hesitation last longer than lean.

what he said^

needles control jetting. if you're a tad lean at wot try bumping the mains up a size or 2 and see if the hesitation goes away.

i would have to dig, but i think the best 1/4 it ran was a 11.60. i hear of 10 second 1/4's out of bikes with less power. i sold the bike and don't even have one atm. i just have such a boring life i still log in.

again i am not anywhere near a asphalt racer. we have a local track and i played around on it a few times. for my engine setup i was never able to run near what et it should run. 7.5 1/8 on a 120hp bike is kind of embarrassing from what times i have seen others post. i could never get the setup right to cut anything faster than a 1.7 60ft. then again even if i had cut a 1.4-1.5 60 it would have just ran out of mph even faster just improved et.

a 2 strokes et and mph will never add up to nhra standards. be it resistance or lack of torque idk. kinda like a toyota supra traps 160mph but only runs a low 9.... im sure you have way more track time but i was never able to find a gear for my 120hp cub that would keep it loaded. it would labor over 100ft before the 1/4 with a 19/38 gearing and 21.5 tires. we have obviously had 2 different experiences, but mine was lack of load allowing for overrev. it could be partly to only having a 5 speed trans.

my bet was a one day bet. BUT if tyler is still willing to offer up some free gear i will offer up 20 bucks to the first legit 1 mile pull. you head out to the shop and start doing mods that will allow the mile pull safely i will tell you to get fucked. the bet is that "your banshee asis" will do it because you do it "ALL THE TIME"

i should probably add in one more little detail. most lawn care products have a mechanical gov that will bring the wot speed down. remember your gokarts that you took the arm off the side of the carb so that it would rev higher? remember how it went to smoking shortly after that and you killed the rings? basically you would get the same life out of a banshee if once the engine reached max rpm you cracked out of the throttle 10% and held it there.

i hope the owner just happen to have his mower apart and the banshee was down for repairs and he just sat them on there for a funny pic. he would be a successful troll because he didnt even start the thread.

i have never really ran a full fender bike so yeah my opinion would be void for sure on wind resistance, but in the case of any bike i have owned wind resistance never over powered the engine to the point it held load. i have never owned a bike that would go more than 1/4 mile without running out of gear or rpm either. most of us set our gearing up to where it matches hp/tq that's why my bet yesterday was a untouched bike. a 40hp bike will more than likely have stock gearing and a 100+hp bike will have quite a bit higher. what im getting at is with added power and added gearing final gear should pull all the rpm's without anything such as wind resistance effecting it. my drag bike was only a 5 speed but at 109mph it would run out of rpm and lay over to the point if i held it it would burn down no questions asked. why? because it was tuned to make power throughout the rpm curve. by tuning for that it will build heat if held wot and eventually deto and burn down. you can't have both. safe wot tune and curve power. i could almost see a bone stock banshee with a better dome design running a full mile with a heavier rider. mainly because the pipe flow, heavy rider, full fenders for wind resistance and a dome design that wont trap heat running it wot. half the members here couldnt tune a one key piano muchless a banshee and nothing against them (that's why we have builders, dyno's and afr meters) but some of those members are the ones in here arguing the point. i think the op jumped out once i said prove it with a video because he knows he has never held it wot without backing off a tad, or letting out from time to time allowing heat release. back to the weedeater. no i dont have a 1 gallon fuel cell. i mean running it constant and only stopping for fuel. a cheaper trimmer will only last a season if lucky. a echo being a better brand will last 2 season. either way no one runs one wot without a load otherwise they would not be trimming grass or running it longer than 20 minutes before it eats shit. echo didnt design the trimmer to be ran without a load. they know when you're wot your trimming grass not waving it in the air in a rock band video.

this is not being compared against direct injection. it's being compared against standard fuel injection THAT STILL NEEDS A TUNE to run right. zilla don't let your hate out because you spent 2 yrs on a complete failure. zilla cant get standard injection finished much less direct high pressure injection..... you could hear the carb when first put on lean revving just a touch right off idle. i would assume the carb still takes very minor adjustments to work. idle screw, air bleed adjustments

your weedeater was also seeing a load against the grass and length of string. as a banshee rolls faster the load is reduced. hold your weedeater wot without string and not hitting grass for a minute solid. i have burned down several weedeaters over the years by holding them wot for hours at a time around ponds etc

no one said it was impossible. what was said was most will let go and it's not smart to run one a complete mile wot without backing out. again let me point out the facts. even if you had the gearing for a load through the whole mile you don't have the right domes, jetting, compression, timing etc not one single banshee on this site is setup to run a mile. if it was it would only be a mile bike. it would not perform at any rpm other than wot. look at the weedeater..... ever seen a weedeater make good power below half throttle? nope..... it's tuned to run cool wot and not exceed a safe rpm sleds/snomos ever seen a sled that made it past the load the clutch setup and tracks put on the engine? nope.... well maybe the few that have went way beyond stock hp and ask them guys what happen when they get held wot for long long pulls... waverunners.... again they never lose the load against them unless the loader loses contact with the water. then a rev limiter kicks in. OK now lets look at what it's going to take to make a banshee safe for mile wot pulls. the absolute tallest gearing possible to keep a load against the engine high squish clearance. i would guess 55 plus low compression low port timing or a rev limiter a pump or modified fuel delivery OK now please tell me oh so smart banshee gurus.... what kind of power do you see this setup making on the power curve? 1,500-6,500 rpms?

sweet. now even dumb asses can tune!

all you guys that was just so sure your banshee would make a full wot mile pull and no one made a video and a quick EASY 100 bucks?

i had a boss that move here from MN that moved back home. before he left we hung out a little bit and he had one of those in his shop. he said he use to drag race it a long time ago. wish i could remember his last name.