Phelps

gotcha.

what are you 10?

need a car?

looking for a banshee 97 explorer gt40p headed motor, e303 cam, bbk headers, yada yada yada, 4r70w trans with performance auto shift kit, yada yada

the last person i am jealous of is you, or your welding/fab abilities. i find it funny that you're even in a thread.... maybe you was looking for some pointers? i'm sure if you and camatv join teams building bikes i could get rich off of life insurance alone.

3-4 degree's. some run better at 3 than others do at 6, just gotta find what it likes

yeah they were all pulled off and re welded back on straight. but coming from you i won't let the criticism get to me lmao

not that i would argue with someone with clearly more experience than me, but humor me. when you tune lectrons with no load...... do you not have to tune once at the track with real world elements? ie load, engine temp etc? yes you can tune any motor on a non loaded setup and get it right, but as soon as it is introduced to real world elements it is not even close. even going from a dyno to real world it will need more fuel, less timing no? either way i would still never fire a bike that didn't have a chain and brakes. you're asking for trouble.

why are you even messing with the jetting without a chain on it where it can be ridden? you will never get the jetting right without a load on the engine..... plus it is (and im sorry if this offends you) stupid to fire a new setup without a way of being able to stop a runaway from a lean condition. chain, brakes, etc

yeah there wasn't much thought that went into that chassis design other than looks. looks over function will get you killed in some cases.

and if you think it is in fact lean go up on the needle until it tries flooding down off the needle then work back down. what needle is in the bike? PE1?

way too rich. alky plug should still look brand new after just a few pulls. there isnt even a temp reading on the ring. you don't do "plug chops" on alky. everything you need to know is on top. color band on the ground strap and color band on the flat area where the threads start.

perfect example of a horribly setup front single arm. the tie rods are mounted way too high on the stem and way too far back and the tie rod length was no where close to the same length as the arms.

i had both setups and neither really felt better than the other. i like the shock going to the arm over it being used to hold the spindle straight up and down.... at least if the shock mount breaks you still have some control vs the shaw/shock coming apart and allowing the spindle to become a flopping rag.

probably just 64.50 pistons then..... buy a oem gasket and put it back together.

lol

post all the numbers on top of the piston. more than likely it is a .5 over piston which would make it a 64.50 bore if it had a stock head gasket and it wasn't trimmed then it's probably not a 68mm bore. you can run a stock head gasket on a 68mm bore, but it will need to be trimmed. done it in a pinch before.

eat a dick! lol

it's very simple if you don't over think it. my art skills suck or i would attempt a drawing. the closer the mounting point of the steering stem is to the mounting point of the the arms at the center of the frame and the closer the tie rods follow the arms the less bump steer as the suspension moves. also the closer to the same length the better if the mounting points are the same, the lengths are the same and they are within a inch away from each other you would never get bump steer within a 8" travel setup. i will look for a pic that might help

anyone in here ever owned a older ford truck with I beam suspension? funny they were able to make it work.

you don't need a tool. use your eyes that you were given. remove the airbox/filters whatever blocks your view and make sure both lift at the same time. don't look down the bells. find a spot to look at between the carbs and use your perifial(sp) vision

debur tool

what is a matter cam? not smart enough to make a single arm chassis have ride? you just tell guys to pump the shaws u? sounds like something a shit chassis builder would say. "it's how they're supose to work. why would they built them with suspension if it wasn't supose to move? oh and stop telling ppl to over inflate their shaws unless you're ready to pay the repair bill. straight from shaw " what idiot told you to put 1,500 psi in this low pressure piston shaw?" some guy on bhq i told him..... he said to tell you "thanks for the business" cam.... like i said in my first post.... get the tie rod to follow the angle of the arm and make sure the tow is set up right. i had a full 3" down and 3" up from loaded ride height without any bump-steer at 180psi not to mention when having travel you reduce the chances of something on a single arm breaking by removing the "shock" that happens from basicly rigid setups. then again what do i know. i'm just some dumbass that has never set a bike up.