chetgoff

elevation is 950'

thanks for the reply. No other opinions?

I know on some pipes I think it is the cpi's you can swap the mid pipes from one side to the other. I know on shearers they make custom center mount mid pipes just have to call and order them.

looking for help here do these look lean? or good.

My mods are...Stock stroke 64.5 bore, head milled .20 drag ported by wildcard. Cases port matched, plus 4 timing, 35mm Pwk CEL needle 58 pilots and 162 mains. No bog on bottom and this thing ran real good. This was new plugs 6th wide open and turned bike off, held clutch open, and throttle wide open. Oh almost forgot Sheares inframe small bore. and Pods for filters

I cannot find these in the clymer. The front sprocket nut. The little nut on the clutch pusher and do you guy's use locktight on either of these?

the nut and washer had came off of the pusher. Glad it did not mess anything up. Not sure if it was a good idea or not but I put locktight on it this time. What do you all torque that nut to? I could not find it n the manual so I read online and someone said like 6 ft lbs. Thats what i torqued it to this time hope I'm right.

I took the hose off the master cylinder held my finger over the hole and pumped the brake until I could not hold it there any more. Then I hooked the line back up but removed it from the caliper, and held 2 fingers over the holes. I pumped the brake until it pressured up. I reconnected everything and followed the clymers manual on bleeding the brakes, and it only took like 3 time from there. It was a breeze after I did all that. Only been working on them for 2 days. A friend gave me that advice, man I was glad to have talked to him. I thought my master cylinder was bad and I was getting ready to order a rebuild. But all is good now. Thanks for all the help from the HQ..

hey guys went out to break in new motor and clutch was acting weird. I installed a new clutch for this build aswell. When I first took off all was good for about 10 minutes, then my clutch lever went limp. I was gonna limp it home when all of a sudden the clutch was back. this happened several times on the way back. Just curious if anybody has had this problem before. thanks for any help

finally got them to bleed. Waht a PITA man. thanks for the help.

I dont have a pump. The weird thins is when I pump the pedal it never gets hard. but I can hold it down and open the bleeder and fluid shoots out like it is pressuring up. Tha pads are not moving either. please help I need to tune this thing and now I have no brakes.

Hey guys need some help I recently took apart my rear brakes. Just seperated the line from caliper and resavor. and drained brake fluid. I recently put it all back together and cannot get them to work. I filled the resavoire and pumped them up and did the bleeding process. I now am getting just fluid at the caliper and no more air but the brake pads are not moving. I hope my explanation makes sense to some one who can help.

Thanks for all the replies I'm looking to purchase one on ebay and wanted to make sure I got the right one. thanks again for the help

which one is easiest to fit on the banshee and is it virtivcle resivore or horizontial resivore?

thanks for the replies guy's and thanks Brandon. I know you told me where to start when you gave the motor back but I lost the paper I wrote it down on. Thanks again for the help

My current mods are Drag Port from wild card. 35MM PWks with pods cel needles. head milled .20 64.5 bore stock stroke cases port matched. timing +4 lightned flywheel. nor tors or any junk. elevation about 1200' I just had it drag ported from wild card. It was ported before going there. The intakes are bigger then normal but this thing ripped before I had it ported more. He did not touch the intakes just transfsers and exhaust. The jetting before was DCK needle 68 pilots and 162 mains. it may have been a little on the rich side but it surre ran hard with no bog or hestitation. Just looking for advice where to start at

sold..

hey guy's my last pipes had what looked like hightemp hose to me. I got a new set and was just wondering if I need to buy couplers, or is there something else to use?

I talke to the guy's at sheareres today. basically the inframes are the same exact pipe just an old design. There is some clearence issues with the rdz's and only 1 o ring and also some differences with the stingers. They have not made pipes for them in atleast 6 years or more. They steered me away from buying them due to the age and possibly having carbon build up in them. The out of frames that they make are different then the RDZ pipes. They sounded shocked that there was any inframes with the rdz stamp still rolling around.

just a question can someone tell me why the rdz inframes are shearers but have a rdz stamp on them? Did RDZ have them built to rdz specs or are they exact same as shearers?

my bad it is an AT&T

I have a white iphone 3gs 16 gb it is in great condition it is jailbroke. I recently installed a new battery. asking 150 shipped.

I'm need a clutch pusher with the nut and bolt. let me know if you got one?

i'm in the bakersfield area. Are the the rdz are shearers?

small bore