Modified RC

I got them from here http://www.harrisonspecialties.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HS&Product_Code=GreenLEDwithwires&Category_Code=Green I also got the billet tail lights from them and they are very nice too. You can get the replacement bulbs in a few different colors.

They look great. Here are my green lights

The crank bearings, and also the rod bearings should be replaced if they have any up and down play at all.

When you get the engine apart check the crank bearings real good, make sure all the little rivets that hold the bearing cages together are all still in place. Also check to make sure a reed screw didn't come loose and get in the crank area. It could be many things that got in the engine but I would check the two listed above first.

Here is my Clarke 5.5 gallon tank

+1 to that advice Using 2 pieces of solder will get the closest reading because the piston can not rock to one side, all bearings have a little play in them so use 2 pieces of solder to eliminate the play in the wrist pin bearings to get the closest reading.

I set my 485 ring gap to .012-.014, that was suggested by my porter.

I always liked the bright green.

Nice work! I did the same thing with the sink strainer and I got past the gate and in the dunes with no problems.

Where did you get the block-off plates from?

Thanks for the info! Maybe I'll see you out there this year and do some duning.

Last year I was running the Trinity pipes and silencers and the silencers didn't come with spark arresters. I made these housings to hold screens and I got in the dunes with no problems. I got the screens at a hardware store, they are used in sinks(plumbing department)

Not sure about the sound check, but if you don't have spark arresters they don't let you in the dunes. Every quad gets checked for spark arresters at the enterance gate for the dunes.

Did they still let you ride the dunes? What did they say? I haven't been sound checked yet but I don't want to be either.

Nice work on those, they look great and don't stick out too far. I need to make a longer grab bar for mine because the sparky's added alot of length.

I'm too busy with my regular machining jobs now, hopefully in the future I might make some Banshee parts for sale though.

I don't think they are airstrikers. The part number on the box is 70RAA here is a pic, not sure if you can tell by the pic if they are airstrikers or not.

The billet clamps were machined myself, I don't think there are any available anywhere for sale. Yes about $70-$75 each is about right.

I just got my 485 all put together, I'm also using shearer pipes and 35 pwk's. I got everything from HJR and this is how they set mine up: CEL needle middle clip 165 mains(also sent 168,162, and 160 mains) 55 pilot 1 1/2 turns out on air screw I hope this helps, it sounds very similiar to Savage420's advice

I just installed the Sparky 2 1/2 inch spark arrestors on my Shearers. I used some billet clamps to hold them on

Thank you, so it plugs into the yellow wire off the stator?

I have a question about the wires coming out of the light control and engine off switch on the handlebars. I have everything hooked up just like the wiring diagram of the Banshee manual shows, except for the yellow wire with a red stripe. The manual doesn't even show a yellow/red wire, only solid yellow. Can anyone tell me where the yellow wire with red stripe connects to? Thanks for any help you can provide.

I'm going to try to make it, I'm trying for opening weekend too as long as the weather is decent.

Kevin is working on a 485 cheetah PV kit for me right now. I'm so giddy I can hardly wait to get all the parts back and get it put together.

I've been going to Silver Lake since 1991, this last Holloween was my first Glamis trip. It was well worth the drive! I'm going to try to go back once a year. The dune system out there is huge and you can ride all day and night. IMO every off roader needs to go check it out at least once. If you do go, find the hill called China wall.....It's steep, tall, and so much fun.