So Cal Banshee

Like others have said, parts are available in venders row, firewood is available in venders row/glamis beach store/when you need to go to Bradley for race fuel ( not available at dunes, it's not supported to be used out there) so keep your jugs under cover and all fuel is to be in red jugs only. If I remember correctly as long as your current registration is valid then your good, but might need to double check that. Don't forget to get a use permit, huge fine if you don't, runs about $40@week. Good luck on your trip.

Racetech X's 2 FTW!!! Great product and service!!

just gerat any year stator... reference service manual to match correct wire colors and splice wiring, after flywheel is mounted check the air gap on the pickup... Good to go... Evan (racetech electrical) did my 89 shee for hands on R & D, he might do earlier years if he gets enough interest.. ***** I'm not responsible for damage if you splice incorrect wires together...if your uncomfortable with doing that then don't do it... there are members who might have better options that may chime in ... ******

Evan has been very busy lately.. electrical engineer contractor.. If you want his products you got two choices.. ebay or his company - www.racetechelectric.com. or phone (760) 476-3514 - like $119 for dual 100watt A/C output or little more for 200watt ground floated DC with regulator.... The ones on ebay are made by him but not sold by him.. that is one reason why they are cheaper..but still his product (they buy bulk to resell) Let him/company know you are HQ member and he might sell cheaper... He rarely answers emails on weekends..

Only resistance tests for ignition side, since additional voltage is needed at higher rpms to keep coil charged.. and no regulator on that circuit 0.28-0.38 ohms at coil primary & 4.7-7.1k ohms at coil wires 13.7-20.5 ohms at stator (green & red wires) 94-140 ohms for pickup coil (white/red & white/green wires) and specs for lighting side does have voltage, should be round 11.5v@2000rpm to 16.3v@8000rpm.

Few more things to add, when stators get rewound the lighting side usually never fails unless there is a direct short, it's the ignition side that goes due to excess heat from lighting side, the wire insulation melts. the best way to avoid that is to run your lights all the time. stators will always make the same power with lights on or off. when lights are off that power gets converted to heat by regulator n stator, too much heat= melted insulation = short = failed stator.

Evan used my bike for a prototype for DC conversion kit he's going to offer. He also did a video that should be up on youtube soon. So far no issues what so ever. Used a rather large gelcell battery and wired it so battery could b removed and lights just run on stator. As far as others that have R&D stators, Evan has no feedback from them last time I talked to him. Only one person had issues, but really had nothing to do with his stators. Seems like great product at a great price, much lower then competition. Only time will truly tell if these stators hold up...

Also try wickedatv.com in California... All 3 forks for $99 plus shipping.. link: http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10659&iCat=274&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products

Yes you do need a spacer, otherwise you'll overload your bearings preload and wear them out prematurely.

great review! Just finished my motor and have snipers as well. They are great looking pipes, fit was perfect, excellent finish, LOVE the sound of them! maybe just a little on the loud side for those that ride where there are noise restrictions.. just need to tune. what are your jetting specs? I've got 35pwk - 45 pilot 150 main cel needles.. seems close, just haven't had time to do final tune or ride it yet.

You can run both, but not necessary.. usually a timing plate does the job. Adjustable boxes are nice if motor needs different curve or want to be able to adjust on the fly. As far as +8 that would be the case depending on how the adjustable rev box was adjusted..

first off, your post is confusing... lean at midrange.. but you did a WOT test?? Second need more info about your setup.. elevation, brand of pipes, porting, pods or airbox.. if lean @ WOT then bigger mains, if lean at midrange try raising needle/changing to different needle first, if that doesn't clear it up, look at the pilot (seems a little small..maybe 27.5/30

Pump is good idea, gets rid of stock plastic pump that will eventually break. Same with gear for pump. I have both products from Mull on mine, good piece of mind and excellent quality/price. Aftermarket radiator wouldn't hurt either, stock is good enough as long as you have good airflow, but extra coolant takes longer to get hot. Just get cheapest one (radiator), they all come from same place (China), just different distributors. Have one of those too, looks nice and shiny and more coolant! Haven't had any problems with any of those products..

What is the offset of your front wheels/rims? You should be running 4/1 offset (4inches inside/1inch outside). They will have the least about of feedback. Stock rims are 3/2 offset I believe. The center of tire tread should be inline of ball joints. Draw imaginary line from upper joint thru lower joint, should end up in center of tire. Farther out tire sits the more bump steer you will have.. Aftermarket arms would help, if you need to adjust caster. But start with rims first.

Yes you'll need a round house carrier and a caliper bracket. A 120 link chain should be good, depending on sprockets (ie...close to stock 14/41 or 15/41) Also stock length brake line will work do to caliper bracket relocating caliper position. Might also have to revalve and or change spring on rear shock depending on your weight and riding style..