So Cal Banshee

Like others have said, parts are available in venders row, firewood is available in venders row/glamis beach store/when you need to go to Bradley for race fuel ( not available at dunes, it's not supported to be used out there) so keep your jugs under cover and all fuel is to be in red jugs only. If I remember correctly as long as your current registration is valid then your good, but might need to double check that. Don't forget to get a use permit, huge fine if you don't, runs about $40@week. Good luck on your trip.

Racetech X's 2 FTW!!! Great product and service!!

just gerat any year stator... reference service manual to match correct wire colors and splice wiring, after flywheel is mounted check the air gap on the pickup... Good to go... Evan (racetech electrical) did my 89 shee for hands on R & D, he might do earlier years if he gets enough interest.. ***** I'm not responsible for damage if you splice incorrect wires together...if your uncomfortable with doing that then don't do it... there are members who might have better options that may chime in ... ******

Evan has been very busy lately.. electrical engineer contractor.. If you want his products you got two choices.. ebay or his company - www.racetechelectric.com. or phone (760) 476-3514 - like $119 for dual 100watt A/C output or little more for 200watt ground floated DC with regulator.... The ones on ebay are made by him but not sold by him.. that is one reason why they are cheaper..but still his product (they buy bulk to resell) Let him/company know you are HQ member and he might sell cheaper... He rarely answers emails on weekends..

Only resistance tests for ignition side, since additional voltage is needed at higher rpms to keep coil charged.. and no regulator on that circuit 0.28-0.38 ohms at coil primary & 4.7-7.1k ohms at coil wires 13.7-20.5 ohms at stator (green & red wires) 94-140 ohms for pickup coil (white/red & white/green wires) and specs for lighting side does have voltage, should be round 11.5v@2000rpm to 16.3v@8000rpm.

Few more things to add, when stators get rewound the lighting side usually never fails unless there is a direct short, it's the ignition side that goes due to excess heat from lighting side, the wire insulation melts. the best way to avoid that is to run your lights all the time. stators will always make the same power with lights on or off. when lights are off that power gets converted to heat by regulator n stator, too much heat= melted insulation = short = failed stator.

Evan used my bike for a prototype for DC conversion kit he's going to offer. He also did a video that should be up on youtube soon. So far no issues what so ever. Used a rather large gelcell battery and wired it so battery could b removed and lights just run on stator. As far as others that have R&D stators, Evan has no feedback from them last time I talked to him. Only one person had issues, but really had nothing to do with his stators. Seems like great product at a great price, much lower then competition. Only time will truly tell if these stators hold up...

Also try wickedatv.com in California... All 3 forks for $99 plus shipping.. link: http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10659&iCat=274&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products

Yes you do need a spacer, otherwise you'll overload your bearings preload and wear them out prematurely.

great review! Just finished my motor and have snipers as well. They are great looking pipes, fit was perfect, excellent finish, LOVE the sound of them! maybe just a little on the loud side for those that ride where there are noise restrictions.. just need to tune. what are your jetting specs? I've got 35pwk - 45 pilot 150 main cel needles.. seems close, just haven't had time to do final tune or ride it yet.

You can run both, but not necessary.. usually a timing plate does the job. Adjustable boxes are nice if motor needs different curve or want to be able to adjust on the fly. As far as +8 that would be the case depending on how the adjustable rev box was adjusted..

first off, your post is confusing... lean at midrange.. but you did a WOT test?? Second need more info about your setup.. elevation, brand of pipes, porting, pods or airbox.. if lean @ WOT then bigger mains, if lean at midrange try raising needle/changing to different needle first, if that doesn't clear it up, look at the pilot (seems a little small..maybe 27.5/30

Pump is good idea, gets rid of stock plastic pump that will eventually break. Same with gear for pump. I have both products from Mull on mine, good piece of mind and excellent quality/price. Aftermarket radiator wouldn't hurt either, stock is good enough as long as you have good airflow, but extra coolant takes longer to get hot. Just get cheapest one (radiator), they all come from same place (China), just different distributors. Have one of those too, looks nice and shiny and more coolant! Haven't had any problems with any of those products..

What is the offset of your front wheels/rims? You should be running 4/1 offset (4inches inside/1inch outside). They will have the least about of feedback. Stock rims are 3/2 offset I believe. The center of tire tread should be inline of ball joints. Draw imaginary line from upper joint thru lower joint, should end up in center of tire. Farther out tire sits the more bump steer you will have.. Aftermarket arms would help, if you need to adjust caster. But start with rims first.

Yes you'll need a round house carrier and a caliper bracket. A 120 link chain should be good, depending on sprockets (ie...close to stock 14/41 or 15/41) Also stock length brake line will work do to caliper bracket relocating caliper position. Might also have to revalve and or change spring on rear shock depending on your weight and riding style..

Had FMF's on my stocker 350, but now running snipers on my new 400 PV motor. So far so great!

R.I.S.designs phone number is (562) 251-1330 8410 Somerset blvd. Paramount, ca 90723 Open 730am pacific time Should also be able to get same orings from hydraulic supply shop or possibly from auto parts store (napa not oreilly/auto zone/pep boys)

Trinity sells new factory shift drums already modded with bearings for $125 or so, but mod would be easy if you had access to a lathe or machine shop and some time to research which roller bearing one would need...

Sounds like that's your problem. FMF website says 27.5 pilots, 280-300 mains depending on elevation, needle on middle clip to start. Im running 290\27.5\2 turns on my current setup with fattys at sea level, little fat but safe and not fouling plugs.

Had some just like that on a set of ASR arms, rattled from day one. Got the 3pc that lasted many years in all types of terrain - mud, sand, dirt.

Those are economy grade heim joints. Just get some 3pc teflon chrome moly ones. Should be 3/4"shaft with 3/4"hole (measure just to be safe). Get those anywhere - summit racing, ebay, search internet.. FK or Aurora are top quality, probably round $30 ea for good ones that will last many years. Ones like you have are 7-10 ea.

There are several options, either factory dirtbike twist throttles, terrycable has a dual twist/thumb throttle, or use motion pro housing and get a aluminum throttle tube from various mfgs to replace the junk plastic tubes on motionpro throttles.. I've used the aluminum tubes with great success..

The water pipe would be easy install but greater chance of leaks, spark plug would be easy also but I see sensor getting damaged easy over time by plug replacement. I would use screw in sensor, could be installed into head by drilling n tapping hole then applying dealer to threads. Especially since u are starting w/all new parts. But that's what I would do.

Trail tech makes a digital temp gauge, think around $45. Has several different sensor options. http://trailtech.net/tto.html

Also can't forget about these guys...http://www.twostrokeshop.com They have everything you need to do that conversion.. Only draw back is they are from Australia... It's just another option, plus they have quite a bit of info too..