So Cal Suspension

Really dude? It's been less than two weeks.

As a rule of thumb, for anyone who is 180lbs or over, I wouldn't recommend running a stock shock on any swinger longer than a +4. Some people have done it successfully, but it's not and optimal setup. A respring, and revalve will make a world of difference. Send me a PM if you want some info on having that done. It will be well worth the investment. Trust me.

When you get those pics, make sure you take lots of them. On items like pipes, the appearance means a lot to most people! Good price if their in good shape!

Well, since the boost bottle adds NO performance gain whatsoever. I would have to say it's performance is equal to running a boost bottle. Very clean look, in my opinion.

Don't run that bike until you replace the boot. A cracked intake boot will cause an airleak, and make the bike run lean. I believe trinity sold a 2-into-1 that was a 38mm airstriker. Could be wrong, but I think a 40mm carb will fit in the 38mm boots. Someone should be able to correct me if I'm wrong. Perhaps the previous owner put a 40mm carb on a kit made for the 38... The easiest way to measure the carb, is mic the inside diameter of the carb. Not the filter side, the side that goes into your intakes.

Please... For the love of Christ. Please use the search function at the upper right hand corner of your screen. There have been hundreds of threads made on this topic. ...but... Bel-Ray MC1 at 50:1

I like eggs... Premix with eggs... Try it...

PM Sent with a full quote!

Thanks guys... 87, When you're ready to have those shocks done hit me up. You won't find anyone with better prices, or a better guarantee on their work out there. My shocks have been and are CURRENTLY on top SCORE class 1 cars, and winning trophy trucks for the last 6 years... I can't name any names, but you would recognize the majority of them. A few are household names. I have done TONS of shocks for other members here, and have had nothing but thrilled customers.

FHSAA is not the Government. They were given governing authority by the state legislature, but they are not a government entity. It was founded by 29 highschool principals...

I would even say 2-3 years is too long. Shock oil gets broken down VERY easily. Most people assume that shocks are good to go, as long as they aren't leaking. That's not the case at all. If a shock is leaking it's WAYYYYY past where it needed to be serviced. For race vehicles, I service shocks every 20-30 hours of use. If you let them get to the point to where they're leaking, it's too late. Most of the time no damage has been done internally, but it happens frequently. The pistons are wrapped in teflon bands, that wear out over time (granted, on ATV shocks, they last quite a while), but that teflon that is wearing off, has to have a place to go... it wears off into the oil... Also, I just thought of something. If the springs are still on there, how are you sure they compress smoothly? Also, are you sure they're still charged with nitrogen properly? What colors are you going to be doing your springs? I usually do the dual rate springs for about 90 bucks, for all 4 springs. Two colors runs about 120, including stripping and prep.

No problem.

Also, since you just bought used shocks, it's a good idea to have them rebuilt. PM me if you want info on having those rebuilt.

The easiest and safest way is with a spring compressor, but you can do it with a big flathead and a vice. Put the shock in the vice, upside down (so the res line is on the bottom), you will see the spring retainer (or hat) on the end of the shaft by the rod end. You will also see a little notch, about 3/4" wide. Slide the bump stop down on the shaft so you can get a flathead screwdriver right up against the shaft in that little notch. Pry down, and wear some REALLY heavy leather gloves and slide the spring hat out. Either pull the screwdriver out quickly, and run... or slowly let it back up, and you've got the springs off. I don't recommend doing it this way, as it's stupid, dangerous, and can destroy fresh paint or PC on the springs, but it's really the only way to get them off without the right spring compressor.

I'll give you 3 bucks, and a picture of Bubbagumps ghost bike. 8x10 glossy of course...

Nice analogy!

I'm replying from my phone, but I just talked to my cousin and I was wrong, he has the 12" patriot bar. I don't know what that is yet, I haven't gotten a chance to look it up... but he told me to tell everyone it's for sale...

Impartial? Yes I am... but PARTIAL, No I am not. Just sayin'... You must have missed the part where I said I'm running BOTH LED's and HID's on my sand car... Call me blind, but I know the 22" lightbar on the top of my cousin's Teryx doesn't throw the light far enough to be safe at high speeds in a buggy. Perhaps on an ATV is a different story, but you're also not throwing around a 2500lb long travel car. Some of the 42" LED bars put out enough light to be suitable, and safe, but 90% of people that run LED lights on their long travel cars, run HID's in conjunction with the LED bars. Facts are facts, guys... sorry to piss on anyone's parade, but 800-900 Lumens vs 1850 Lumens...? The LED lightbars are AWESOME, hence the reason I just bought one for the single seater... I'm not pissing on LED's by any means. The man simply asked how they compare. I quoted the the stated lumen output from VisionX's website, and Trail Tech's website. I have never run any type of MR16 lamp on anything I have ever owned, nor will I ever. They simply don't throw the light far enough for my liking. My alumicraft car has 5 8" 100 watt baja designs HID's on the roof (3 pencil beam in the middle, two floods on the outside), and two 6" Baja designs halogen floods on the a-pillars. The single seater is getting the 22" LED bar on the roof (the whole roof width is only 22.5"), and two Baja Designs 6" 100w pencil HID's on the a-pillars. Maybe some halogen floods up front to light up right in front of me. All I'm saying is after riding in dozens of long travel cars with LED lightbars, I wouldn't ever run with just the 22" lightbar. It's simply not safe at 100+ MPH... I want to be able to throw light 100-200 yards. The LED's don't do that very well yet. I'm sure in the near future they will, and when that time comes, I'm sure I'll be buying a few of them to replace the HID's. But that time is not now... I really wish it was, because they look really clean, and look AWESOME at night.

It says 900 on the right side, but 800 in the text... kinda scary that they're not sure exactly how bright they are... http://www.visionxusa.com/LED-Solstice-S1100/c1_48_88/p374/2%22_SOLSTICE_SOLO_BLACK_10-WATT_LED_POD_10%C2%B0_NARROW_BEAM/product_info.html Also, the mr16 reflector is one of the most efficient reflectors made, for a halogen or HID purpose, which is one of the main reasons it is so widely used. By efficient, I don't mean most economical to be used on an ATV, don't confuse the two. Efficient means there is less "spill" outside the spectrum it was designed for. Here is one of the the LED's few flaws, the LED's have a very wide viewing angle, without the assistance of lenses and reflectors. In order for an LED to be able to "throw" it's like, it has to be run through lenses. The absolute BEST lenses on the market, only transmit 93% of the LED's full light. So say the LED is rated at 900 lumens, you're really only getting 837 lumens out of the lens. MR16's don't have a lens, therefore you're getting 100% of the light transmitted. I am impartial when it comes to LED's vs HID. But the fact of the matter is, watt per lumen, is almost identical on HID's vs LED's. I just ordered a 22" LED light bar for my buggy that is 10,900 lumens. Even with 10,900 lumens, it alone would not be anywhere near enough light for safe driving. I Will also have to fit them with HID's, because the LED lightbars don't throw the light far enough. I still need a few pencil beam HID's to get the light the distance it needs to go...

The mr16 is 1850 Lumens, as compared to the visionx's 800 lumens. The MR16 is more than twice as bright as the VisionX LED.

Those Works look like they are in decent shape, but whenever you're buying a used shock, assume that they need to be rebuilt. Just because a shock isn't leaking, doesn't mean it doesn't need to be rebuilt. Those NTC shocks I have been curious about for quite some time. If anyone has a set, or would like to buy a set and send them to me so I can do some research, I might be willing to pay for your time...

Alright guys, There has been a huge influx of junk shocks being sold on eBay lately. I don't know who the seller is, but they look like they've all been coming from the same place. I've had several customers in the last few weeks that have sent their shocks to me, and they have been destroyed inside. The most recent one was just this last week. A set of Works shocks that were rusted internally beyond belief. Almost nothing was salvageable. Shock body had to be honed, with all new shafts, pistons and valving plates. So if you're buying shocks on eBay, get really good pictures of them, and see if the seller will take them back if they're not any good. If you're not positive about their condition, shoot me a PM with the link to the eBay ad and I'll do my best to figure it out for you. I don't wanna see people spending a ton of money on shocks, and still have to spend hundreds more on parts.

BAHAHAHAHA. I LOVE IT! I Also love the fact that these two douchebags are arguing about a different forum, on here... Both of you get the fuck out. Take your problems elsewhere. Go argue on planet sand and see how long they put up with your bullshit.

Chris (Savage420) has a very nice billet one in the swap and trade section. He's in BC...