forrest411

Anyone know the factory setting for the clicker on the rear shock?

Mine only has the orange and black wires on it.

Thanks for the idea. I have a syringe with a rubber hose on it that I use to fill the brakes from the bleeder screw. Usally that removes all the air. But not this time! I used the syringe to vac out the air from the bleeder. Now the pedal is a firm as ever. Thanks for the idea!

I got mine from a pet store for $2.00

I use a large syringe with a piece of hose on the tip that fit over the bleeder screw. Just fill the syringe with brake fliud making sure that you get all the air out of it before you attach it to the bleeder. Then with the cap off the master, attach hose to bleeder, open it and fill from each cailper. This will get 100% of the air out of the system. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master. You may have to suck out some of the fluid so that it doesn't over flow.

I'm trying to bleed the rear brake. I have a tool that forces fluid through the bleeder screw towards the reservoir. I got a lot of air bubbles out at first and then just fluid. Repeated several times, but I still have no pressure at the pedal. I think there must be air trapped between the master cyl and the reservoir. THe person that I got the bike from took everything apart to paint the frame and couldn't get it back together so I have no idea if it worked before or not. But there is no sign of it leaking anywhere. Thanks for your help.

Looking for a white uncut front fender and possibly gas tank cover. Zip is 60452

The head is sold

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The tires are Kenda "The Trakker" 20X12X9 paddle tires. The are in excellent shape only had 2 rides on them. The rims are ITP, one of them is dented (see pics) but it holds air just fine. Looking to get $150.00 for the tires and rims. The head is Pro Designs Cool Head and comes with the extended studs. You will need domes and o-rings.Looking to get $75 for the head. I also have front and read blue plastics that have been painted black. Both are cut. Looking for $35 obo.

Thanks

I just got a 2001 Banshee that someone put a 94 motor in it. He never finished hooking everything up. I noticed that the plugs on the wires coming from the stator are different than the plug on the CDI box. Both plugs have the same colored wires. I have the female plug that matches the one on the CDI box so that everything will plug together if I switch out the plug on the stator wires. Does anyone know if the plug end is the only difference or will I have other problems trying to use the 2001 CDI nox with the Stator from the 94 motor? Thanks for the help in advance

Thanks

I'm in the midwest about 2 hours northwest of the Badlands in Attica, IN. Some of the Gas City stations by me use to sell 110 Racing gas. Now the still sell what they call racing gas, but it is only 100 octane. When I put the motor back together I had the head shaved .04, but I just got this pro-design cool head, but I don't know if it will be worth the hassle or not. How much of a difference do these really make? I don't really have a problem with it running to hot as it is. This site has been a great source of help to me in the rebuilding process. Just started to work on another one for my sons. Thanks for the help!

Someone told me that I could run 19cc domes on pump gas. Is anyone running a similar setup like this?

93 mixed 40:1

I just got a prodesign cool head on a trade. I need to buy domes, but not sure which size to go. Mods are as follows: 20 over weisco forged pistons Toomey T6 pipes V Force 2 carbon reeds Adj. timing plate +4 K&N Filter / open air box

Does anyone know where to buy replacement netting for DG Nerf Bars. I contacted them but haven't heard back yet. I have the old style where the netting wraps aroung the bar and is then riveted. I have a rivet gun so it should be an easy fix, if I can find out where to buy them. Thanks

One of the float bowls drips gas out of the float bowl drain. I took the bowl off and the screw and cleaned them off, but it still leaks until the bowl is empty.

I got it running. I installed an adjustable timing plate when I did the rebuild, I it set at +4 (lined up with the split in the cases). I put it back to zero and it fired up and I was able to drive it around a bit. I'm going to check the compression again tonight now that I have been able to run it for 15min or so. Am I doing something wrong with the adjustable timing plate? I did double the intakes, carb boots and everything there looks good.

The compression is way down on both cylinders and I cant start it unless I hold the throttle wide open.

I'm looking for a set of stock (unbored) cylinders.I just had my stock cylinders bored (1st bore) for a set wiesco pistons part # 513M06450. Or so I thought! The shop slightly over-bored them and now I either need to get another set of new pistons or possibly trade the cylinders for a true stock bore set. They are in excellent shape, no porting. The only thing that was done other that the boring was I cleaned up the exhaust port with a wire wheel. Thanks

How much would you sell the cylinders for?

I got it to fire up. The only way that I could get it to run was to hold the throttle wide open while I kicked it over. It did run (like crap), but it ran. I had to keep the throttle open quite a bit in order for it to continue to run, After I shut it off I did a compression test on the right side this time (with the throttle wide open), the highest that I could get was 65psi. My quess is that the shop that bored the cylinders over-bored them. Any other ideas of what could be causing this?