forrest411

Was not holding the throttle wide open. the attachment is the same as the plug. Cant remember the name, but I just picked it up at the local auto parts store

Not sure if this will answer your question. I got this out of the installation instructions for a set of Toomey TR6 pipes: "There is a hole in the bottom of the slide on the inside as you look down from the top. Also notice there is a passage way on the aluminum cable holder too. These must lineup! (See photo) The purpose of this passage is so that the slide has an air vent to the top of the carb. Otherwise, the slide would act like a piston in a cylinder and compress air above it. Once the compressed air blew out down the sides of the slide between the slide and the slide bore, the slide might stick on the way down because of the resulting vacuum created." Please line these holes up!

Is there something special that you need to do when checking the compression? Because last night I screwed in my compression tester, after 1 kick it was at 65psi, 2nd kick 75, after 5 kicks it was at 95psi. This top end has never be fired up. So either I'm doing something wrong (which I'm hoping I did) or the machine shop that bored the cylinders messed up. Any ideas or thoughts?

20 over, forged pistons, Toomey T6 Exhaust, K&N Filter (no lid), Shaved Head .040, Jetting is set at: 280 main Pilot #25 4th clip on needle 1.5 turns out on air screw Keep in mind the bike ran great and always started by the third kick before I tore it down.

I'm running racing gas 100-104 octane, mixed to 32:1

Yes I unplugged the tors box. No I didn't do a compression test. I'll do that tonight when I get home. I had the head shaved down .040 when I did the rebuild. The machine shop that shaved it told be that I sould be somewhere about 165 psi. Does that sound about right?

It takes some effort, but not a whole lot. I was just wondering if the shop that did the boring screwed up. Can you do a compression test before you break in the top end to check it?

Thanks for the help so far! I checked the gap it was a little more than a business card (not much). I adjusted it in, but I still have the same issue. I pulled the flywheel to make sure that the keyway didn't sheer off. That all looked fine. I did get another pop through the exhaust (very little). I can try to spray some starting fluid in the carbs to see if it will fire off. Although I would prefer not tp do that unless I had to. Question: SInce the top end has just been installed. Should I be able to turn the flywheel by hand? Because I can...... Any other thoughts?

No I didn't. I just transferred over everything to the new timing plate. Do you know what the gap should be?

Before I tore it down it ran great considering that the left side was only at 90psi. Here is a list of what I did: Bored .020 over Weisco Forged piston kit Had the head shaved .040 installed and adjustable timing plate (set it at +4 degrees) installed the motion pro TORS removal kit took off the twist throttle and put on a stock thumb throttle. K&N air filter I filled it with fluids yesterday and tried to fire it up. On the third kick it popped once and that was it. After that it nothing. I was thinking that it might have something t d with removing the tors. I unplugged the tors box and both plugs that went into the old carb tops. The thumb throttle throttle has a wire on it that isnt plugged into anything. When I got the bike it had a twist throttle (with the tors) on it, so there was no wire attached to the throttle. Just a 2 prong lead that has electrical tape on it, but it has a different plug than what is on the thumb throttle that I bought used. ideas of where to start?

Thanks for the help

Does it matter which plug wire goes on which cylinder? Also, the orange and black wires....... Does it matter which terminal you put them on the coil? Thanks for the help in advance.

I have a 99 Banshee that I tore the motor down at the end of last year so things are a little foggy. My question is this. On the back of the Primary gear that is attached to the clutch basket (Big gear approx 5" in dia) is there a O-ring that goes into the groove? I bought a downloadable manual off ebay and it shows one going in there. But when I look online in the Yamaha Parts lookup I don't see the O-ring anywhere, which would make sense because I can't find one in with all my other parts on the bench. Sorry to post such a stupid questions, but I thought it's better to be safe than sorry. Thanks

I need a few misc. parts for my banshee rebuild. Adjustable timing plate, Throttle cable with TORS eliminations kit w/idle screws, K&N air filter (YA-3502), Crossover tube, Brake pads front and rear, Hi flow water pump impeller. I figured that I would look here before ebay since you guys have help me out with the questions that I had.

Do you still have those headlights?

Do you have and adjustable timing plate, crossover tube, aftermarket water pump impeller

He said that he chamfered the ports. How can you tell for sure?

The shop that bored and honed my stock cylinders said that I should polish the intake, exhaust on the cylinders and have the stock head shaved .040 and polish the domes. I think that shaving the head will increase the compression roughly 30-35 psi. Will polishing the ports and the domes be worth the hassle without any porting? Running wiseco forged pistone .020 over Toomey T6 pipes K&N filter (no lid) Stock carbs (jetted for the pipes and filter)

Thanks for the response. Any thoughts on shaving the head .040 and Polising the domes and the exhaust ports? Trying to gain as much HP as possible with out loosing reliability.

Thanks for the info: Not trying to beat a dead horse, but I want to make sure. I can install an adjustable timing plate, setting it at +4, at the same time that I'm breaking in a new top end? Or should I set it at the stock setting until the top end is broken in?

Thanks for the input. I was thinking along the same lines.

I've been reading some of the posts about adding an adj. timing plate and it seems to a good bang for the buck. I just had the jugs bored and honed and I'm getting ready to put everything back together this week. The question is this: Should I set the timing plate at +4 or should I leave it at the stock setting until the top end is broken in? Mods: Forged 20 over pistons Toomey T6 Pipes K&N Filter (no lid) Boost bottle (if it matters)

Anyone?

The local shop that I was planning on using to bore and hone the cylinders says that they would normally fit the forged piston a bit looser than what the Wiseco instructions say to fit it. He says the the clearance that the manufactor says will be very tight. Has anyone been told this before. He is willing to do it his way or to the manufactor's (Wiseco) specs. Any thoughts???

Thanks for thhe response. I ordered the Wiseco Kit (off ebay) this morning.