forrest411

It costs thatuch to disassamble and put it back together? I wouldn't have thought that. All the bearings arr good, the only issue was one rod bearing has too much play.

I need to have a rod replaced on on of my cranks. Looking for a local shop in Illinois or Northwest Indiana that can replace it and true & weld it? I already have the new rods. Thanks

What bore size are the cylinders? Who did the porting?

Interested in the cool head and domes. How much and does it come with the studs?

sounds like ignition to me. Try awapponh out the cdi box. I had one that went bad and the bike would run great for 10 min or so and then run like crap or not run at all. If you have another banshee that runs fine swap the cdi ans see if that does it.

Would you sell without the domes?

Who did the port work and what type of port job did they do?

just sent you a PM

I'm rebuilding a motor and looking for some trail ported cylinder's (not interested in anything over 65.50) and a long rod 4 mil crank. Possibly looking for cool head and domes as well (19-21's). I do have stock set of cyl's that are 64.50 bore if you want to take as a partial trade. Otherwise I have cash. Thanks

Thanks for the input. I have another Banshee with the same mods except it has FMF Gold Serices Fatty's. Think the porting may be a better fit for these pipes?

Has anyone running Toomey T6's had the cyl's ported? If so was it worth it? My set up is Toomey T6's, Jetting 280 main 27.5 pilot, V Force 2 reed cages, shaved stock head .020, wiesco forged pistons, adj timing plate set at +4, Pro design adaptor with K&N filter (no lid), No TORS, Thanks

Just sent you a PM on several parts

Thanks for all your input. I'm always able to find out what I need to know on this website! Thanks Again

Do you still use the factory caps on the lower a-arms? The reason I ask is because the they only had one cap on the lower arm (very front location) on each side. But there was no room for for any other caps. I was thinking that when they tighten the lower a-arm bolts it may have bent in the mounting brackets, but it doesnt look bent. Thoughts?

Can you guys help me to confirm what type of A-arms these are? I just picked up another Banshee (basket case) and it has these A-arms on it. By measuring them I can tell that they are +2 +1 arms. I looked through a bunch of other posts last night and they look like burgard arms? I was thinking about getting them powder coated as well. I never had anything coated before, will the shop remove the chrome or would I have to take care of it? Thanks for your help

Another Pic

These have been sitting around. The tires have never been used, but the rims have and there is 2 small dings on one of them (see pics) other than that they are in great shape. Im looking to get $150 for them. Thanks for looking

what type of a-arms are they?

I just had them apart and cleaned everything out, but I didnt check the float level. If the flat is to high will it cause it to be hard to start?

Quick question for you guys. Could the float level (if set to high) cause it to be hard to start when the bike is cold. I have a fresh top end and the bike rips once I get it started. It takes anywhere from 7-12 kicks to get it fired up after that it fine. The last time I rode the bike I forget to shut the fuel off when I was done. When I went into the garage the next day I noticed that fuel was comming out of the right side carb. Any thoughts?

Once you have the intake and the stock reed cage off the motor bolt them together with a regular nut and bolt; BUT put a washer in between them. This creates a space thick enough to fit a fine tooth hacksaw blade between them. Simply cut off the excess rubber. Do it slow so that you will have a nice clean cut.

Thanks for the input. I'll leave it alone.

I was riding through some corn fields the other day a pulled an unexpected wheelie. The grab bar dug into the ground pretty good and got bent. I got a new grab bar and intstalled it, but I noticed that it is about 1.5 inches higher than it should be. So I looked at the frame and it's bent as well. Here's the question: If I heat up the frame and bend it back, would I be doing more damage than good? As it is right now noone would really know, but it drives me crazy if stuff isn't right. Thanks

A cheap alternative. Get a $2 syringe from a local pet store, attach a short pieve of rubber vacume line to the end. Fill it with brake fluid, making sure to get the air out of it. With the master cyl cap off attach the hose to the bleeder, then open it and fill from the bleeder. Make sure to close the bleeder before removing the hose. At first you should notice air bubbles coming out through the master cyl, then the fluid. Repeat if ness.