toddyfresh

So I was putting my bike back together after splitin the case.. I got my clutch cable all adjusted but when I went to tighten down the bolt on the bracket that holds the clutch cable down and the bolt broke. I tried to easy-out it but it wouldnt come out.. You think it would work if i just put a small self-tapper in it.. I wouldnt think there would be much stress on the bolt if I did use one...

I didn't think the burr was that bad. Does anyone else say it will do that? Now I'm lost

I got the other basket and it has a very small burr that gives some resistance each rotation. Hoping I can hit it with a file

Thanks man yeah I used a penny to hold gears. I see my clutch basket has a very slight burr. Barely noticeable but it's there. I guess I'm just gonna file it down a little bit. I'm gonaa order straight gears and a billet basket in summer so it's only gotta last a couple months. Thanks

So i split my case for the first time and took my time and replaced all the seals and i got it back together except the pistons and top end which i am waiting for the gaskets.. but anyways i have this not sure if it is a problem or the way its suppose to be.. If i turn the flywheel or the clutch basket it moves freely for a little bit and then get a little resistant to where you have to turn a little harder for a second and then its okay again for a little bit. I counted the turns on the flywheel and every like 2 3/4 turns it gets the resistance.. Not like you have to pry it but just a little more then regular turn.. I checked all the gears and the sprocket moves like it should.. i dont know if this is how it is suppose to be or not didnt check before i tore it down.. Again i just have connecting rods exposed no pistons or top end on yet

i guess u could adjust ur timing if u have an adjustable plate on there already.. change ur sprocket.. just depends on how deep u get in with ur cash when u finish splitting it

yeah i second that sorry man ur gonna wanna replace ur clutch im assuming while ur in there who knows what else.. i just split mine and put new seals and gaskets and clutch and just for those three was was 160 bucks and i used a not so expensive clutch

yeah i forgot the second thrust washer thanks

u should hook me up.. am i the one that just bought the basket off ebay from you then u sent me another one cause the first one was messed up?

whatta y aaskin for either one

i got the plate to work when its not screwed down just when i hold it there with my hand but when i torque it down to the i believe it was 7lbs the plate doesnt wanna pull away.. plate is flush with last friction plate

Dont care if its stock black or whatever just need one that doesnt have the threads stripped like mine.. Thanks!!!!!!!!

Yeah I got three arrows on mine used middle one. If I screw the pusher in all the way then it's too far and I can move clutch assembly. Then I can't get a medium on it. Is the plate suppose to pull away when u hit the clutch

So I went ahead and split my case today to replace all theseals. I was putting back together on my bench. I put a vitos clutch in so I am assuming the just go anyway cause the steel plates don't have no markings. Then I put the rod and ball back in put the pressure plate and screws/springs back on and then when I pulled the bracket where the clutch cable goes in it will pull but the pressure plate doesn't open. Isn't it supposed to open when u pull clutch. I tried adjust the screw too but any further in I can't pull on the clutch bracket

from what ive seen alot of aftermarket clutches dont use the rings and as far as the bearing goes i believe it goes washer pressure plate washer on other side of plate and then nut

I can't do that as the clutch plates broke and ripped the seal. I also wanna make sure there's nothing sitting inside from the clutches. Should I put silicone on the seals when I'm done or will they be fine as is

sweet sounds like it wont be too bad.. i had my top end off earlier so i know its good i guess ill just check everything out on the bottom while im in there.. do i have to like lube up the gearsor anything before i seal it? also my local store doesnt carry yamabond they have threebond(?) is that ok?

i ordered a clymers that a few guys told me to around here.. i pulled the motor and got everything off besides the screws for the case.. im waiting for the manual before i split it but i just wanted some insight because i had a yamaha manual it wasnt very good thought maybe someone else could shed some light before i get my book.. thank you

So the gear will basically stay where there at? It's okay if the spin?

do u think its beeter to pull it from the bottom in my situation? so theres no loose parts all the gears are on the shaft? im new to the banshees

Im splitting my case to replace the crank seal and i had a question.. if i flip it upside down and pull the bottom of the case off can i change the seals that way without removing the top end? If I do pull the bottom off will the gears or anything fall out?

What if a gear or something spins or is it possible to knock it outta time or mess anything up. Nice I don't gotta take head off

so i actually wanna pull the bottom from the top then? and u say little pins do u mean make sure the ridge of seal is in groove? i ordered a clymers i have heard they r helpful

So im gonna split my case for the first time so i can change my crankshaft seal that went bad.. I bought a like 7 piece seal kit im gonna use but i have a few questions.. i read the book and i was wondering after i take the bottom bolts off and then the top and start to split is there anything that can fall off or anything from the top of the motor when i take it off or is everything sitting at the bottom? next question is when i put the seal in can i just slide it over the crankshaft and sit it in.. I dont wanna move crank and mess something up..

what would be the best way to check? use a micrometer on the sleeve or piston?