bansh_88

Yea thats something to consider for sure. The good thing though is that even though its an 88, the quad has very very low use at all. It sat in a shed most of its life so its been preserved nicely. I couldnt beleive it when I went to buy it. My jaw dropped at the condition of it!! Thanks for that link. I did look there right before I made this thread and looked through all of the blue shaded paints. But I didnt see anything for an 88 banshee though. YES, thats what I was thinking too! I actually had that page bookmarked before I read your reply. I think that this IS the correct shade for my frame. It HAS to be. Thanks!

Thanks for your reply Zwiser, I appreciate it. I guess that will be my last resort if I am unable to find an official paint offering from Yamaha for my blue frame. Does anyone know where I can perhaps get info as to the actual shade of blue that Yamaha used on my frame? It would sicken me to my stomach to end up touching up my frame only to notice a clear difference in the shade between the two colors when completed. Thanks!

I was wondering if anyone knows where to find touch-up paint online (local dealer here has none) for the Banshee frame. My '88 model Banshee's frame was painted blue from the factory and I want to touch up a few areas on it. It is my hope to find the exact factory paint somewhere, or at least the same shade of blue that they used for the frame. So does anyone know the shade of blue that they used, or a paint code or specific shade that I can search for? Also, does anyone know if Yamaha perhaps may have used that exact shade of blue on newer Banshees or motorcycles where I can cross-reference if needed in order to find this shade of paint? Any info offered to help me touch-up the frame on my 1988 Banshee would be really appreciated. Thanks guys.

You guys ROCK!!! Thanks guys.

I guess you have changed your avatar since your post here, but I assume it probably showed you taking your J-arm banshee over a huge jump!! :headbang: Are your J-arms still holding up? I have been trying to figure out if the views of J-arms were mostly just assumption or based off of actual experiences. Because I hear of both types of arms bending just the same. To me, the J-arms look stronger than the A-arms giving me the feeling that they can actually handle bigger air than the A-arms.

Has anyone here ever witnessed or personally heard of someone tweaking their Banshees frame as a direct result of having J-arms instead of A-arms on their Banshee?? I tried searching for an answer on this but found nothing so far. I did see a lot of unfavorable opinions on the J-arms, yet havent come across anything concrete that suggests J-arms are really anything bad other than the bushing wearing out a little faster than on the A-arms. I hear stuff as far as less strength and tweaking frames, yet when I look at my J-arms, and then on my brother A-arms, I cannot believe how much MORE durable and beefier the J-arms appear. SO does anyone have any actual personal experiences on their J-arm banshees or personally heard from a close acquaintance of a J-arm owner having any negative experiences from J-arms? They could be horrible for all I know, but so far it all looks mostly like assumptions and nothing concrete based on actual personal experiences. Just wondering about this one. Thanks!!!!!!!

Thanks guys!!!!! By the way, does anyone know what Pilot Jet comes standard in the Keihin 33mm PWK carburetors?

Seriously, I just cannot find a domestic site online (in the USA) that lists a Pilot Jet (specifically #45 & #48) for my Keihin 33mm PWK!! Why am I having such a hard time? I found some DG brand jets in what they call "Series 21" and "Series 22" but the series 21 is listed for Keihins 28-32mm carbs, and the Series 22 is 34mm and up. It just SKIPPED right over 33 mm!!!! Arrrggghhh!! I cannot find a link to purchase Pilot Jets #45 and #48 for my Keihin 33mm PWK!!! Finding main jets was no problem, but Pilot jets I cannot find anywhere!!! Can somebody please reply with a link from an online store that is located in the USA that sells a #45 and/or #48 Pilot Jet for a Keihin 33mm PWK carb?? I just cannot find anything domestically!!!! Please help!! Thank you!!

Thank you VERY much J.J.!!!!!!! You have been a HUGE help here to me, I really appreciate all of your help here!! This post from you just answered my questions. Wow, thanks so much J.J.!!!!!!!! :notworthy:

Oh, also, what does "CEL" mean? Thanks!

Thanks for your reply. I read thru 7 pages of that thread that you provided but have yet to find anyone near my setup! If they do have something close, their land elevation is several hundred feet to a few thousand feet higher than mine making it hard to even guess at the jetting. Unfortunately I am absolutely clueless as to where to even start with the jetting (due to my setup) other than using J.J.'s example here in this thread. The problem is that I dont know whether to go up or down with the jetting or adjustments if that example doesnt work. I am 100% newbie on jetting having owned boring 4-strokes my whole life that never required any carb adjustments before. So if I try J.J.s example, and need to go richer or leaner, what direction would I need to go with the jetting and adjustments? Higher, or lower? Thanks again guys, your help is greatly appreciated! :notworthy:

Anyone else using similar jetting as J.J. on their ported/piped/33 PWK carb'd banshee? Jetting for slightly different setups would also be appreciated. All info and suggestions are welcome. Thanks a lot.

Thanks a lot J.J.!! Your reply is greatly appreciate.

I am looking for some suggestions in regards to the proper jetting on my 88 Banshee. My Banshee has been ported & polished, will be running an FMF Fatty exhaust system, Keihin 33mm PWK carbs, and ridden at a land elevation of about 690 feet above sea level. I currently have no experience in jetting carbs, and have no ideas as to what jets or ranges of jets would be best for my setup. Reading into it all reveals that jetting carbs seems to be quite complicated with all the different jets and adjustments (such as midrange jets, top-end jets, idle settings, needle adjustments etc, etc). So I was just wondering if one of you guys here could help me out and perhaps make some suggestions as to the proper jetting and settings for my carb that will get me up and running again with the above info. It all seems very confusing, so your suggestions or advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks a lot guys.

I didnt realize that Banshee Jet Kits were so dang expensive, so I am hoping to find a few suggestions or guesstimates of a ballpark figure of the proper jets to use in my 1988 Banshee that has a port job and .020 overbore by Passion Racing. Also, will be installing stock carbs on it that were bored out to 28mm in addition to running FMF Fatty pipes and silencers. The land elevation of my location of which I will be ridding is 500 - 1000 feet above sea level. With this information provided, would anyone be able to provide me a ballpark idea of what jets to run? I just cannot beleive how expensive jet kits for the Banshee are!! Or maybe I have just been out of the ATV game for so long that either prices went up, or I just forgotten the actual prices of kits. But anyways, I am looking to buy a few jets to experiment with , and with my mods, I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or help. THANKS!!!!!!! :notworthy:

Thanks again everyone for your help!! It is GREATLY appreciated!! Well, yesterday I went into the garage and messed around with it again rotating the flywheel and watched the movements of the two pistons from the rear side through the ports. While rotating the flywheel counter-clockwise and then clockwise, I noticed that the pistons would move slightly further downward into the cylinders with easy gentle rotation by hand of the flywheel!! SO I kept at and FINALLY, I got perfectly smooth and free rotations on the flywheel with the pistons moving nicely and fully up and down!!!!! I poured more oil into the spark-plug holes and kept rotating it by hand for about 20 minutes straight and it is smooth and free as can be!!!!! :) . I guess it should be fine now and guess it is time to buy some pipes, carbs, filters and other goodies to get full advantage of this bored and ported engine!! I am THRILLED right about now, and want to say THANK YOU to all who have posted here in attempt to help me out. Your help is GREATLY appreciated. This forum has got a bunch of great individuals who know there stuff and are really generous with helping out. This place is GREAT!! THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!!!!!

OK!!!! Possibly some good news I hope... I just now checked on the motor to see if it would be my lucky day and see if the motor would rotate due to having had it soaking a few days with aircraft-grade anti-corrosive and lubrication spray inside of it, BUT... nothing. SO, being that the left side cover was already removed from my transmission area, I grabbed the round thing (stator???) and turned it by hand and and the pistons immediately moved freely and smoothly like perfect!!! Totally smooth as can be with NO sticking or roughness whatsoever!!! :) So I then tried the kickstarter by hand and it did finally move the pistons but then it came to a stop again like it was before. So I grabbed the round thing on the left side of the tranny (stator??) and rotated it clock-wise and it came to a stop. I then grabbed the kickstarter by hand and pushed downwards and the pistons moved again a full revolution and then it came to a stop. So I again rotated the round thing on the left side of the trany (stator??) clockwise again until it stopped and I was again able to use the kickstarter to spin the pistons again. The problem is that they spin what I assume to be a full revolution, but then in order to continue these spin cycles, I have spin that round thing on the left of the tranny again clockwise which acts like a reset to allow the kickstarter to rotate the pistons again. SO I have to keep working both the stator (???) and the kickstarter to get the pistons to spin. So can anyone please explain what may be going on here? Do I need to adjust something here? I am clueless as to what to do from here but I know now that my pistons are moving freely and smoothly but its just that I have to work both the kickstarter and the round thing on the left side of my tranny together but separately to get the pistons rotating. I will be forever grateful if anyone can explain what is going on here and what I will need to adjust or fix to get this engine rotating correctly with just using the kickstarter like normal. THANKS!!!!!!!!! :notworthy: :notworthy:

Thanks a lot everyone for the excellent advice, I greatly appreciate it. I should have time to try all of these suggestions this coming weekend. Again, thanks a lot everyone for your help!!

Thanks for the reply troyzstang. I will give that a try. But I will definitely not have to pull the spark plugs out being that I never even installed any after getting the motor back. I just kept the motor taped up and filled with rags just exactly as it was sent back to me from the engine builder. I didnt even have the chance to put spark plugs in it once I got it back from the builder. Just had so many other things going on at the time and couldnt even start it up or do anything with it at all despite having all this performance port work done to it and a complete brand new top-end with .020 overbore. One of lifes many curve-balls I guess... Sigh.

Thanks a lot for your replyn2otoofast4u. I never did rotate the engine at all as I stored the kickstarter away when i had disassembled the motor and being that I just found the kickstarter today, I figured that I would try to rotate the engine now since finding it. But all this time it was set on the garage floor and a couple times I poured Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug holes and in the crankcase. I think I also poured some regular 10-40w oil in the crancase as well. I honestly didnt plan for it to be sitting for this long, and I have just been busy with other things causing me to forget about this motor which has $1500 of fresh professional motor work done to it by a well known and popular engine builder. And now it may be all ruined because of it sitting all this time... I am so disappointed by this right now that I feel sick... really sick...

If anyone else has any other suggestions of what I should investigate or try, I would be very happy to hear of it. Thanks!!

Thanks so much for your reply okbeast!! I will remove the clutch cover to look for this. THANKS!!!!!

About three years ago I had sent my 88 stock Banshee motor away to a very popular engine builder (whom is mentioned on here often) to have the cylinders bored .020 over, new pistons installed, mild porting job performed, and a few other usual and typical motor work done along with this all. A little while after it was done I knew it would have to sit for awhile (had other expenses that came first) so I poured some oil into the cyllinders and crankcase and it sat that way until now with a total of about 3 years sitting untouched with zero miles on it. It was never even started up as the motor has been covered up and set on my garage floor the entire time. SO today I go out to my garage with the kick-starter in hand to try and rotate the engine but there is no budge. I removed the tape and rags from my valves on the rear of the jugs and see right into the cylinder at the shiny new pistons which will not move with the kick-starter. The strange thing though, is that even though the kick-starter will not move the pistons at all (except for a very slight movement on both pistons), the kick-starter can be bumped in a constant manner in which it eventually can be worked downward fully, but strangely enough, the pistons remain clearly in the same exact position. So I keep working the kick-starter in this manner downward and it will eventually work its way down, but again, the pistons do not move with it. The trans is in neutral and I do not see what is going on here. Being that this is very odd to me, I cannot explain what is going on. Is this a frozen piston, or is my kickstater or gears failed here? While my kick-starter does not go down as smoothly as normal, and the pistons remain in place, I can manage to get the kickstarter to the full downward position by hand by rocking it back and forth. Please accept my apologies in advance if my question here seems confusing, but I have no clue of what the issue may be, or how to explain it any better. Does anyone know what I am looking at here and what I need to investigate or check into further in attempt to solve this issue? THANKS!!!!!!!!!

Thanks to everyone for the input. As for mods, they are: .020 over-bore, MX Port, and going to get t5 exhaust. I am starting to think about Oko 30mm carbs as I have been hearing great things about them and the price is great. There was an ebayer selling them as 2 carbs titled "banshee set", but I do not see this seller with any more for sale. I did find a seller selling Oko 30mm as single units. This may be a dumb question, but I can just buy two of those single units, and a banshee throttle cable, and that will be the same as the so-called "banshee kits", correct? Thanks.

I am about to buy Keihin 33mm PWKs and want to make sure that I order everything at the same time so that after the install, I can go out and ride. I believe with these carbs I would need a new cable, extra jets, adaptors from carbs to motor, and new air filters (or adaptors?). I currently have the stock TORS in place, and was wondering if I also need to purchase a TORS eliminator kit or can I just clip wires. I am looking to buy everything at the same time and wondering if I am forgetting anything. Also, does anyone know of an Ebay seller or online store whom is usually less expensive than others for carbs? Thanks in advance.