bansh_88

I bought a pair of used FMF Fatty pipes and silencers on Ebay and have a question about getting the silencers bolted up. The exhaust fit perfectly everywhere else, except for the last bolt above the silencer which looks like I would need a special bracket to bolt it up. Either that or I need about an inch worth of washers and a bigger bolt because there is about an inch worth of space between it and the bolt it lines up with on the frame. It lines up perfectly with the front bolt of the rear grab bar, so unless I am mistaken, this is where I would need to bolt it, right? Other than about an inch worth of space, it would be perfect. In order to get the silencer to bolt up, I would have to physically bend the pipes inwards towards the frame. But if I do that, they are angled inwards and look ridiculous. So for the FMF fatty silencer bolt, is there a special bracket to use to bolt it up, or is everyone just going with an inch longer bolt and using a ton of washers? Everything else bolted up perfect except for the final hole being that of the silencer. Thanks!!!

Thanks again guys, your input and photos are greatly appreciated. I have often heard that the Banshee is not exactly the best handling ATV out there and am wondering if this is due mostly to it having a rather narrow width. Would the addition of +2 arms be enough to extinguish such claims, or does the Banshee require much more handling upgrades? I am not talking about MX grade handling, but rather just your average sport riding and casual 'play-racing' on a mild backyard track just for fun. Say for instance if Yamaha were to have offered the Banshee with +2 arms from the factory, does anyone think that this upgrade alone would be enough to silence the claims of the Banshees ill-handling concerns? Very curious of how much the width alone plays in the Banshees ill-handling claims. Thanks!

In all honesty its very seldom that I do any trail-riding, but I do once in a while. I ride mostly wide open areas going fast and hitting jumps, whoops, and berms. So I think I could use a little more width for better handling, but not too much. Thanks. Can stock shocks be used with +2 or +1 arms? I was gonna keep my stock shocks temporarily and then buy something like YFZ450 shocks or Elka shocks later down the road. Thanks. Wow, thats pretty wide! I would bet it handles quite well. Probably takes quite a bit of skill maneuvering it in the trails I imagine. Thanks. Thanks for the photos guys. Would be very interested in seeing pics of Banshees with +1 arms if anyone has them. Thanks.

I am looking to gain some width on my Banshee and am debating whether I should go with either +2 or +1 wider arms up front. I am definitely looking for better handling and stability, but at the same time, I dont want to go too wide if there isnt much of a difference (for the sake of occasionally trail-riding also). So what I am wondering is, does anyone have experience driving Banshees with both sets of wider arms? Was there a major difference between +2 and +1 wider arms? If there is a major advantage in handling with the +2 over the +1 width, I guess it would be worth it for me to go with the larger arms. But if not, then I'll go with the +1. If anyone has any experience with both widths, or have heard other opinions or feedback of both, I would be happy to hear it. Also, if anyone can post some front pics of their banshees with +2 or +1 arms installed (so that I can get a look at the width), that would be great! I may have seen a couple pics here of +2 arms in the past, but I dont think that I have ever seen anyone post pics of +1 arms on their Banshee. Any feedback and/or pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot guys.

Thanks again everyone. I ordered the Pingle and the fuel lines. Until today, I never heard of a Pingle and would have never thought to buy one. Glad I know now. Bansheehq and its members here rock!

Fantastic!! Thanks volfan537240.

Thanks 'Larry's Shee'. I did them exact searches as you did in those links LOL. I always search Ebay first for everything! That $90 price on the Pingle is the best price I can find so far, and those fuel lines in your 2nd link are for the overflow on the carb I believe as they appear quite a bit narrower in diameter than the gas tank to carb fuel lines. Can I use the overflow lines in place of the gas tank lines? The gas tank lines are much thicker in diameter than the overflow lines so I am thinking that I shouldnt use them. I could be wrong though but I dont think they are what I need unless they can be substituted for the thicker black fuel lines that go from the tank to the carbs. Thanks

One more question... on the Pingle, does it bolt directly to the gas tank? I was initially under the impression that it went directly in place of where the stock "T" connector sat in between the carbs, but reading more into it now, it looks like it bolts to the gas tank. If this is where I have to mount it, then it looks like I will need to run all new fuel lines that would run from the Pingle down to each carb I am assuming. If so, does anyone have a link or OEM part number (or even aftermarket part#) for where I can order some long straight fuel lines to run from the Pingle down to each carb? THANKS!!!!!

Yep, I'll be using regular gas in this quad. Thanks a lot BigRed350x, your help here is GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks BigRed350x. So a carb fuel line with a slight uphill travel should be good then. Thats great news, thanks. I never heard of a pingle before and just did some searching on it after reading your reply. I guess a pingle is recommended due to its increase in fuel flow? It claims to flow twice as much as the stock "T" connector from what I read so far. Do you know if the stock "T" connector flows an adequate amount of fuel for 33mm carbs to feed an engine that has a .010 overbore on the cylinders and an MX port job? I am hoping that I can get by with the stock "T" for right now until I get a pingle. Do you think that I can get by with the stock "T" for now or should I not risk it? Also, I notice that a pingle is quite an expensive unit! The manufacturer of this connector must be VERY excited with this connector to say the least! So far, $90 is the lowest price that I see for one. So could I get by with the stock setup for now or is it too risky to attempt? Thanks!!

I am installing new Keihin 33mm PWK carburetors with brand new stock fuel lines and wondering if the way I have to route the fuel lines will cause issues. Due to the larger physical size of these 33mm carburetor, the fuel lines have to be routed in a manner in which the larger of the two fuel lines travels slightly upwards over the carburetor after where it connects to the metal "T" connector. I cannot route it any other way than for it to travel slightly upwards to clear the larger size of the carburetor and then back downwards to the tube it slides over on the carburetor. So my question is, if one fuel line (the larger one) is routed slightly upwards after the metal "T" connector, will this cause issues with fuel not flowing correctly into my carburetor? If not, I guess maybe I can try to find larger fuel lines that will let me cut them to custom sizes allowing them to travel downwards, but for right now I am wondering if I can get the stock fuel lines to work for now with my PWK 33mm carbs. Is there a special kit of fuel lines that is commonly used for larger than stock carburetors? Or will this be ok with the stock fuel lines? Thanks guys.

After quite a bit of looking into examples of what jetting people have been successful with, I have decided to go with 160 Main jets and 48 Pilot jets. After deciding on it, I came back to this thread again and I see that this is the jetting that Badbar88 has went with. (So thanks again for your reply Badbar88). I finally am ready to get the carbs on and possibly start it up soon, so hopefully this will be a safe starting point to go with. I have noticed that most folks with my setup and elevation run slightly leaner jetting so therefor I am thinking this should be a safe starting point for me. Guess I'll see...

Thanks guys for the FAST replies! Do you guys also put a layer of it around the inside of the carb boot before slipping it over the carbs? Thanks again.

Does anyone know if it is recommended to apply a product such as Yamabond or ThreeBond flexible liquid gasket to carburetor boots to help prevent air leaks? I remember reading this somewhere online, but cannot find it again to verify. Is this a good idea to prevent air leaks from the carburetor boots? Thanks!!

I have just finished installing a Boss aluminum intake and am wondering if I can use the stock air-box with it. In order to use my new Keihin 33 mm carbs, I needed a larger intake and went with this Boss unit being that I have heard a lot of great feedback on them. The problem that I am having right now is that with the intake installed, it seems that there is barely any space between it and the boots attached to my air-box. The boots I am using on my stock air-box are a set of 33-35mm boots (Upp brand I believe) and if I remember correctly, they are about the same length as the stock boots. So now with the space being so small, I am not so sure as to how I am going to get my carbs between the air-box and the intake! So my question is, with a Boss intake installed, is anyone using their stock air-box? If so, how did you get the carbs to fit between it and the Boss intake? Were you able to force the carbs in between them somehow, or did you have to mod something? I am hoping that I can keep my stock air-box in place, but if not then thats fine. Just wondering how everyone else with a Boss intake has it all setup and if they were able to keep the stock air-box in place. Any feedback/advise/suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. THANKS!!!

LOL, Yea, I was truly only a fraction of a second from flipping it when the thought came to me to twist those knobs on the back of the carbs! My hands were already in motion to begin flipping it upside-down, when the thought came to me. LOL scary situation!

Yea, it sounds like you certainly know EXACTLY what I am talking about here! LOL. Its a FRIGHTENING experience to say the least when you have a Banshee motor SCREAMING full throttle out of control isnt it? Especially scary when you start accepting that the only solution of it shutting down is to wait for it to blow up! SCARY stuff indeed as you surely know as well! But thanks to the good folks here, I will be less nervous when it comes time to start it up for the first time after the rebuild and engine mods. The forums and members here are at BansheeHQ are absoltely stellar!

AH, the choke! Thats another AWESOME idea to shut it down! And being that I just replaced the throttle cable for a new one, I will be sure to make sure it isnt hanging up anywhere. I also have what I believe are fairly 'rich' jets that I will be installing into my new carbs which should guard against a lean condition I hope. GREAT ADVISE here, thanks!!

Thanks guys for the suggestions here. I guess that the most common area to check for air leaks are around the intake area, right? This may be a stupid question, but would an air-leak around the exhaust also cause this occurrence? Thanks. That is a GREAT idea for shutting iit down if it occurs again. Thanks a lot for sharing that!! I will be 'sweating bullets' when I first start this new engine up but will be less nervous now thanks to your reply here, I intend to use your advice and actually have it in gear with the clutch in before I even start it up. This way, if it does rev up again, I wont have to slam it in gear while its revving to the moon since it will already be in gear. All that I will have to do then is just grab the brake and release the clutch. AWESOME advise, I REALLY appreciate that suggestion. Thanks! Thanks again everyone. If there are any other suggestions or advice etc, please let me know.

A while ago there was a situation that I found myself in that I do not wish to have repeat itself with my 88 Banshee. The situation involves starting it up one day only to have it immediately rev up to about full throttle without any throttle input from me whatsoever. I have since had the engine completely rebuilt with a bore and a port job, and am very nervous about having this happen again when I start it up for the first time. The scary part is that while it was revving to about full throttle on its own, almost nothing would work to shut it down. The first thing I did naturally was to hit the engine run switch and key to the off positions, but it remained at a full throttle rev. After that failed, I pulled the spark plug boots off the spark plugs but it STILL remained in a full throttle rev! Now, being in a total panic at this point, I was just about to flip the quad upside down with the gas cap off to get all the gas out (yea I was in full panic mode at this point), but decided to first turn the round knobs on the back of the carburetors to one side as a last attempt to get this thing to stop revving uncontrollably. This actually WORKED and it finally shut down after a good couple minutes of near full throttle revving. My question is, how the heck did my engine remain revving even with the run switch, and key in the off position as well as the spark plug boots off the spark plugs? I dont get it at all! Before this all happened, I was playing with those knobs on the backs of the carburetors to get it to idle better. I now assume that I had adjusted them way off from where they should have been adjusted at. But anyways, can anyone tell me WHY this engine remained in a full throttle rev even with it shut down and without the spark plug boots on? I dont wish for this to happen on my new motor that has expen$ive work done on it. I also now have new carburetors that will be going on it and I will not be using the TORS setup. If anyone can explain to me what may have happened here that day, and how to avoid such an occurrence again, I would GREATLY appreciate it. It would absolutely make me SICK if this happened again to me with my new rebuilt/bored/ported motor. Thanks in advance for any info or advice.

I guess I may perhaps be over-thinking a bit here. Thanks for the replies guys.

I removed both of my engine tension rods from my chassis and now cannot figure out exactly which way they need to go back in. Apparently, unknown to me before removal, they are not symmetrical in shape. SO I have several different combinations that they can go but I forget exactly how they were in. Does anyone know how they should appear (or have a pic) of how they need to be installed? I think that I remember the rod on the left having a slight lean inwards to the center of the chassis, and I think that the right side was sort of parallel with the frame. But I could be wrong. Also, by installing them flipped 180 degrees horizontally, it seems that one side can be made to angle upwards, or downwards if you flip it 180 degrees. Can anyone provide any help with the proper way the engine tension rods need to go back in? Also, has anyone had any luck getting the rubber bushings into the tension rods? I bought a pair of new rods with new rubber bushings and upon using my heavy duty vice to press them in, I literally screwed up my vice and the turning handle completely bent yet the darn thing wont go all the ways in. I used a three foot cheater bar on it and only bent the thick vice handle!!! *SIGH* I gave up and guess I will have to reuse my old ones. Maybe I will have them pressed in by some shop somewhere, but HOLY COW, how much force does it take to get them in??!!! LOL. Unreal!! Thanks!!

thanks for your reply. I was looking at them, but they are simply more than I am looking to spend. My project here on my 88 banshee has already cost me darn near the price of just going out and buying a fairly new perfectly running newer model banshee. So I am looking for an inexpensive fix like buying an old style connector and reruning my wires into it, or finding a connector with good wires on it to where I can just splice my wires into it. It is really disturbing to me now as I think of just how much money I have already spent on this older banshee, so I have got to start cutting my expenses here WAY down before I am broke for the next few lifetimes. LOL, *sigh*.

Thanks for all the great replies guys. I tried to pick at metal clip/tab inside of the plastic connector to free the wire but it seems like it is absolutely not willing to let go of the wire. I even took needle-nose pliers (out of pure frustration) to the existing portion of the wire still held on by the metal clip and pulled at it but ended up only tearing another portion of the wire off leaving a bit behind in the metal clip. I do not know what UNGODLY force is holding this wire and clip in the connector, but it wont budge at all. **SIGH** It really is frustrating working on an older model Banshee. The frustration is really HARD to deal with sometimes... REALLY HARD! Any additional ideas are welcome.

On my 88 Banshee I just discovered that one of the wires in the bundle coming off the stator has ripped off (chewed by rats actually) right where it enters the plastic white connector at the end of the wire bundle. I would like to know if there is a supply store or website who carries these connectors so that I can splice all of the wires and rerun them into the new connector. Also, I was wondering if anyone knows if these connectors can just be popped open allowing me to just simply reattach the wire into the connector. The wire that is detached is the red wire which I am very curious to know what the wire actually is for if anyone knows. Anyways, if anyone knows where I can find one of these old style plastic electrical connectors for the stator wire bundle on my 88 banshee, or if I can open my existing connector up and somehow reattach this red wire back in, I would GREATLY appreciate it. THANKS!!!!!! :notworthy: