fast shee

Link is not working for me. Are the r6 shocks really stiff? If so then I will be back where I am now with the yfz shocks chained down. Just thinking with functioning front shocks (instead of stiff or chained down ), it would help with transfer and handling in the corners in stead of riding a hay wagon! Also thought of a ft lowering kit with sway bay to use up ft but dont know if the shocks would still be too long.

Any pics of the bike with the r6 shocks on and can you still use the sway bar with them? Does it matter what year R6 and could you use a R1 shock also?

Have +2 a arms up ft with yfz shocks chained down for the last year now but am going to upgrade to a sway bar and new shocks up ft. What length are you guys running or from what machine are you using. Have been thinking of getting some elkas but with x mas coming have to cut back on costs. Any ideas from experience? The ft end chained down is far too rough in the corners with no suspension action! Anyone try fox floats up ft?

Since i have owned this bike i always have a hard time to shift from 2nd to 3rd but only when racing and under full load. I have installed a shift star and installed the shifter mod spring and linkage. When just cruising on the track it is fine but when the flag drops and we are at a dead stop it just does not want to shift to 3rd. I will have to clutch and try to shift 3 or 4 times before shifting. Anyone come across this problem. Not sure if i might be looking at a shift drum or gears.

Thanks for the pics guys! I think I have made up my mind and am going to do it. I think the blue with chrome will look good. If anyone else has pics I would love to see them!

looking to give the bike a facelift this winter.Thinking of candy blue frame with white plastics but hoping to see pics if anybody has this combo already to make my decision.

I think it would be worth pressurizing your engine and soap it to see if you have any air leaks. I had a problem when I assembled my engine and found the crank seal leaking after being unable to jet it. If you are sucking air you will have to give it lots of fuel like you are already. The guys here have all the experience and knowledge of this stuff. I found that jetting this setup, almost everyone is running the same specs. I will try to lean out mine in the spring time to 150 main, and 45 pilot but will set it up soon for the ice racing this winter.

hey 3sgte. Where you from. I think i read one of your posts for jetting with your new jugs. I run a similar setup mid-top porting, t5s, vf3s, 4 mil, 17cc domes 35 pwk strykers and only run 155 main, cel needle middle clip 48 pilot. Still slightly rich but i am ok with that. Who did your porting? Mine was s.s through slash n dirt in quebec.

Did a little trouble shooting and found the crank seal leaking after pressurizing the engine.

Just a recap from last time. Took it out today and did a plug chop with 152 mains and found left side a bit lean but rt side chocolate brown. Switched left to 158 and rt to 155 and another plug chop. Results were good on both sides dark brown. Only thing i noticed was at higher rpm no load easing off throttle could hear pinging from the engine. Suspect will have to raise the clip on the needle 1 position. Not sure if it is because im running a 4 mil and 4 degrees timing and might have to retard to 2 degrees. Anybody else running different jetting from left to right?

A cool head, bliiet impellar and maxima cool aide keeps my engine running cool even with a stock rad. I ran regular antifreeze 50-50 last year and it ran hot. Switching coolant dropped the temps alot.

Have not done any plug chops yet. I run straight 112 pro race fuel ( unleaded ). Hoping to go and try this weekend. I had the cylinders bored to 66.5 and the machine shop set it up with .004" clearance on pro x cast pistons and she blew the intake skirt off the left cylinder and the rt was cracked between the boost ports. Was running 148 on both carbs. When I tore it down, the rt plug was beige in colour. Pretty fine line if you ask me but it when like a scared rabbit! I had them rebore with wisecos this time at .002" so we will see how it is now.

Finished building a 4 mil ported stock cylinder engine for tt. Engine always ran hot last year with p.d. cool head and billet impellar with stock rad. Put in maxima COOL AIDE coolant and cannot believe the cooling difference. Thought i was needing a pwr rad for extra volume but not anymore. One of the best mods for the cheapest price.

What altitude are you jetting at. I have new setup that is almost same as yours and slowly getting it dialed with the 35 strykers. With the t5s, stock cylinder with agressive mid -top porting, 17cc big bore dome, 4 deg timing, vf3s, prodesign manifold with boost bottle and reed spacers, 4 mil 115 rod and 68.75 blaster pistons with boost port mod. Im at 800 ft and have cel needle 3rd clip. 48 pilot ( too rich ) 2 turns out, 155 main. Runs strong but still too rich. Thinking 150-152. Still in breakin period. Your numbers seem very low but first time with strykers nervous going so low.

Think I was un clear about the cylinders. They are stock cylinders unported ( factory ). Had a spare set to use while I wait for the others to return from builder. Thinking that I might lose power with the 35s.

Sent my cylinders out for porting and will not be ready for the race this weekend. Need to know if anyone has run 35mm carbs on stock ported cyls with 4mil stroker crank, t5s, timing plate,vf3, 18cc domes, etc or will I be better off finding some stockers to run instead. Dont know if iI will lose power over stock carbs. I know it is overkill but not much choice being last second.

I have t5s on now but am wondering if it would be worth changine to shearer in frames. Have ported cylinders mid-top, 4 mil, timing plate, coolhead, 35 pwks etc. Not sure if possible power increase worth the cash or not. Anyone compared the two before? Race dirt track and ice.

I have not tried any other rear tires other than chengs but have seen people use razrs before so i can't comment on them. The studs we use are 1 1/4". You need 640 for 18" rear chengs and depending on what you use for front tires. We seem to usually need between 1300-1500 screws for all 4. Not all banshees in the pics are even ported just bolt ons. I have had lots of success with stock stroke and porting but it does not have as much mid pull. The shorter swinger allows better transfer and more controlable drifting with quicker turning. The orange and black with flames banshee in the pics has a cheetah block on it and goes like hell but he blew most of the corners because he was too fast down the straights so sometimes it is possible to have too much power for the track.

Try going to the web page mf44.ca and click on photos at top of page. He has posted pictures from one of our races at St. Sulpice. He had a few different pics of tires used. Even has pics of itp sand star tires on front of a banshee. Check it out. As for the screws, I have tried all kinds of screws and the mf44 are much more aggressive than koldkutters and hold better when going wide in corners in the snowdust.

I agree with TT banshee for that. It takes money to set it up right. You can find them for half of what you will spend on building them but for beginners fast and low works!

Can't go wrong with the red labels. Been racing with them for 15 years. Blus label is for trail riding and red for more extreme riding like mx ( recommend rolled bead for ft ). 8 " for raer is ideal but bead lock not required if using rolled bead. Have flattened many blue label front fims in the past ove rtable tops etc. Sucks when you don't finish due to a flat!

If your lookin to start racing, try and put some cash in your engine first. If you plan on running up front in the pro classes, start with a +4 stroker with porting and a set of boots then see how your wallet feels. If you are like me, I don't like spending if I don't have to. I don't run hard core like others but it can be fun if you like it without the budjet. Depending on your attendance at the track, tires might last longer!

Found another ft tire that guys used this weekend up here at the bonnechere cup in eaganville ont. They used razr cross ft tires with the outside lugs cut off inside and out. Rubber is very hard and holds screws well. Also they are smaller 20 inch versions. Holds the ice very nice.

I could not agree with you anymore on that. I find alot of bikes with lots of mods but very little rider experience to use all that they have. This is why I wanted to ask people with experience that have these particular setups. Really appreciate the input from these sites. It usually narrows down the decisions.