Holyman

Thanks boon. I didn't forget you, I was just bumping the post.

I'm mainly looking for the twist itself.

Some of you may recall the old forum where I got a friend of mine { a former Princeton professor and who now works for the DOD} to comment on the lightened flywheel theories. I recently asked him about the boost bottle and whether there is science to show that it works. Here are his comments... Hi Dave - Hope you had a nice Thanksgiving break - I had a few days off from work which was pretty nice. I'm mainly into the design and optimization of turbine and rocket engines, but I have a little bit of experience with 2 stroke engine cycles: 2 strokes are very sensitive to intake and exhaust conditions since their simple passive design relies heavily on external components. The exhaust pipes are tuned and equipped with divergent and convergent nozzle sections to create a slight vacuum immediately after exhaust and a slight pressure right before the exhaust port closes. This helps to clear out exhaust gasses and to pull extra fuel/air through the chamber, then the reflected sound pressure wave pushes some of the extra fuel/air back into the cylinder, creating a slight supercharge. The exhaust pipe tuning has a very significant effect, approx. 10%-40% power gains for most engines, however, a mismatched exhaust can also reduce power. Boost bottles are more controversial with regards to performance gains. If the bottle is properly matched to the engine, it is likely that some gain in performance can be measured, but these gains are usually insignificant, perhaps 1-3 % peak under certain load and rpm conditions. Boost bottle theory: All 2 stroke engines equipped with reed valves tend to spit back a little of the fuel air mixture sucked into a chamber. The boost bottle stores this small amount of fuel/air in a tank along with additional air. After one chamber spits back a bit of the mixture, the other is just starting its intake, and boost bottle supporters claim the spitback from one chamber can pressurize the bottle slightly and force more mixture into the other chamber. Others claim that the sudden stop of flow of mixture into one engine chamber creates a pressure wave that would bounce back up the intake pipe unless it had a boost bottle to enter and pressurize, and the bigger chamber instead of a crossover tube reduces flow resistance between carbs. There are numerous other theories and claims regarding boost bottles, some are at least loosely based on scientific principles, but most of the gains would be slight and only at a few discreet operating points and rpm ranges. In conclusion: Properly matched boost bottles do produce some (barely) measurable gains over certain rpm ranges, but nothing really significant. Just enough to legally verify that it does produce a gain. Most of the boost bottle theory available on the internet is usually written or altered by people trying to sell boost bottles, so I wouldn't put too much faith in it. I don't know of any textbooks or sources that would contain scientific data - I don't think the performance gains have been significant enough to attract any serious research interest. I think most of these boost bottles fall into the same category as the "electric turbochargers" which have plagued the internet and ebay over the last two years. Someone decided that strapping a spraypainted $8 marine electric sewage vent fan into a car's intake system could increase performance since it acted as a turbocharger. They never mentioned that a real turbo can give 9-20 psi boost and the electric turbo provided only 0.008 psi, but just that a gain was possible. They along with hundreds of copycats sold thousands of sewage fan turbos for up to $400 each, but now the price has dropped to $15 due to market saturation and lack of demand or belief in the claims. In my opinion, if these boost bottles actually gave any significant gains, they wouldn't need to offer free shipping or <$30 list prices to get them to sell. The boost bottle probably won't hurt performance, and there might be some minor gains under a few situations, but I wouldn't recommend buying one unless you simply liked the way it looked on the bike or ATV. Hope this helps some, Joe

bump

What kind is it?

Still looking

I've got an almost roller. It's a J frame but I sold the J arms. It's got a blown motor. Tell me what you want on it and we'll work out a price. [email protected]

Not unless you want to trade for something

email me a pic of the tires and the prices. Also a price on the nerfs. [email protected]

I ran the one with a spark arrestor built in on mine until I got Trinity pipes. I will be modifying it to fit them now. If you need quiet, it's the only way to go.

New plugs, NEW GAS, check fuel flow from the tank, check TORS connections {if connected at all} if that doesn't work, check to make sure your pipes haven't been plugged up with mouse nesting.

I agree with you on the hell part The God, Satan and Heaven part is easy to understand once you realize people, or any parts thereof, won't be eternally incinerated.

I've got a J frame. almost a roller

Hopefully this link works otherwise go to Amsoil.com and click motor oils then the 3000 5w-30 and the click more info... http://www.amsoil.com/products/hdd.html It says API CI-4, CF, CF-2, CG-4, CH-4, SH, SJ. Honestly I don't know what all that alphabet soup is but it says API.

Send me a pic of the scooter along with your address and phone number. Thanks. [email protected]

I forgot who it was that was having this problem but the screens in the fuel tank were partially plugged with stuff and so the fuel wasn't getting to the carbs causing a lean condition. With all that money wrapped up in a new engine, I'd gut the entire fuel system and install clear filters in each line so there's no problems there. The other thing is you may want to run a tank full of straight non synth oil for breakin so the rings wear in right. I think the 2R is a synth blend. No real experience in this area but it's something to think about.

Yes they are left handed. Use a dental pick and make sure the threads in the flywheel are perfectly clean. Tighten the puller body into the flywheel and then install the center screw. Tighten it down with wrenches and then hit the center screw with a hammer. A couple solid hits should pop it right off. If not, get air tools.

Aren't the bolt holes way too big?

Are you sure they were rocks? Sometimes mice will go down the tail pipe and put nuts in the engine. Either that or you're having a little April fools day a few months off.

There is a little black box under the gas tank on the left hand side. Unplug everything that plugs into that.

I've got one. Email me at [email protected]

rod posted the whole works under "images" or "tips and tricks". Email me with any questions... [email protected]

Where in Ill do you live again? Near Rockford?

send me some prices on the yellow rims and both sets of pipes... [email protected]

I hate it It was one of the first things I took off and sold!!! That was just after a friend of mine rolled it