LaegerEliminator

Still waaay cheaper then a new truck. Done properly it will be more reliable and easier to work on yourself too.

We paid $375 for a rebuild with one year warranty and the 40 hp tune. He has a price menu where you can pick and chose your options and price points.

You NEED the egr removed and the motor retuned!!! They will ultimately fail with that in place. The 03, 04 units had fewer failures, but either way, GET RID OF IT!!!

Are you still running the EGR ?? The turbo vanes can get sticky too and will need cleaning after the egr is deleted. They will also occasionally stick if the truck has not been run for awhile.

This^^^ That is who we used too. We had him do the Atlas 40 tune. Definitely like it.

If your injectors are original you could very likely be having sticking issues. Have you been running RevX or Archoil in the engine oil? What about in your fuel? Sounds like you need to have someone with a computer scanner measure your ficm voltage to see what it is doing. With proper tuning you won't have head gasket issues even with oem head bolts. Studs obviously are the best choice.

How many miles on the motor? Original injectors? A weak and failing ficm will cause the injectors to not actuate fully and will cause them to essentially slowly self destruct

I will get you info on the guy who rebuilt ours and added a tune to it a little later on. It's also possible that your injectors are experiencing sticking from previous ficm issues. Also, what condition are your batteries in? Weak batteries will kill your ficm.

It will spool slightly slower depending on tuning. We have a 38R on one of our 7.3's. Definitely happy with it. Definitely lower egts

Thank You Professor F1HDR !!! Good info

From my research the newer trucks with emissions compliant motors that put on a lot of long distance driving seem to last a whole lot longer and have fewer emissions related engine issues then the ones that are driven short distance and idled a lot.

How many miles were on it when you did the tune and delete?

I'm assuming that motor was retuned and the egr turned off or removed?

Agreed. They should not. There are a rare few that have no issues with numerous miles on them. That being said, Ford and International were the first to try to become emissions compliant with the 6.0. They made mistakes with the emissions designs and unfortunately a lot of consumers had to deal with the issues. All three have experienced emissions equipment issues though. Even the beloved Cummins.

Eh, partial truth to this. 6.0 head bolts and gaskets will fail from an egr cooler failure/leak or from improper box tunes. Egr cooler leaks allow coolant into the intake and the motor attempts to hydro lock, but the oem bolts stretch instead. The early tunes added too much timing causing head lift/gasket failure. Doing studs and gaskets is not a must do given the egr is removed and proper tuning used. The oem gaskets are the best product available to use. Studs will certainly drastically reduce the chances of head lift unless extreme boost is achieved.

Nobody can deny what a Cummins offers in reliability, especially a 12 valve. It's the rest of it that says Dodge that wears outs faster then Ford or Chevy.

You are correct, buying a used one will be a gamble. Especially if it has some miles on it and was neglected. Very few have been problem free, there's no arguing it. I felt the same way for years about the 6.0 and I avoided the idea of owning one completely. I aquired a nice one due to a client owing me money. I ended up keeping the truck rather then selling it as we needed the truck more then the cash at the time. We've experienced most of the typical 6.0 issues ourselves. Fortunately the issues very rarely result in a catastrophic failure, unlike the 6.4. Once a guy learns the details and gains an understanding of why and how they fail and how to prevent the issues they usually change their mind.

Yep, I get it. Sounds like a bad faith claim against the warranty company. Also sounds like the previous owner knew the truck was having issues and had found a way to cover them up enough to unload it for the next guy, you, to deal with. Definitely a bad deal. I come from a diehard GM family and the GM product/trucks do have qualities that are hard to beat in some areas. That being said though we converted and now there are all Fords on both sides of my family and my wife's. Eleven different Power Strokes from 7.3' to 6.4's.

Wow ^^^ That definitely sucks. Glad to hear you were made whole again in the end. No fun to go through though. Did you purchase the truck through a Ford dealer?

That's a seriously unfortunate situation. I can guarantee you that the issues developed with the previous owner (s) and occurred for the reasons I stated. So did you get it resolved? What was the outcome?

Not true. The motor itself is a great motor. The issues they develope are due to a poorly designed emissions equipment system. The only other draw back to a 6.0 is that they must be maintained religiously. They will not tolerate neglect like other diesel motors will. The design of the injectors will not tolerate dirty engine oil and the design of the fuel injection control module will not tolerate the batteries getting weak. Delete the emissions equipment, Retune it with proper tunes and carefully maintain the motor and you will have a great truck. All three manufacturers have had their share of emissions equipment causing motor issues.

I'm gonna PM you Rick. Sounds like you've got a number of issues going on. The tranny issue could be two things from my experience: 1) poor tuning (box tunes) 2) lack of traction bars

Has it had the injectors replaced? Do you ever run Rev X or Arch Oil additive in the engine oil?

What year? Miles? Egr delete? Retuned?

Just some info: On our 2000 7.3 we used to have the stock center section of the oem turbo with a Banks exhaust housing and then an ATS compressor housing with different compressor wheel. Any time we got over about 950 the truck would feel hot and you could tell you shouldn't go any further. We switched to a 38R ball bearing turbo which has a larger exhaust and compressor housing and flows a good bit more air. We can run up to about 1,100 on that turbo with very little heat feed back from the motor.