Nutwood 472

the super cub 72mm takes a bigger head and the cheetah uses cr style reed cages and the t-rex uses 1995 style yz-250 reed cages,I've owned both annd the cheetah are a 6 hole bolt pattern.

I went with both,472cc stroker,72mm bore and a 4mil long rod crank,love it,has plenty of power and is pretty smooth,had Andy at M&M atv port the cylinders and cases,runs great!

the left side should have a o-ring on it.you'll have to put one on it,just hit up a sponsor on here ,I'm sure they can help.

I have a matching set of elka elit stag 2 with high Low adjustment and rebound,fronts and rear and they are sweet,and a plus 2 and 1 forward and a stock lenght swing arm and it works great together,but the shocks will run you 2500.00 and if you buy all three,they will nock off a few hundred,they did for me and I bought mine through Jassen Racing and they are set up for my wieght and ridding style,cross country and mx,elka have 5/8 shafts and works and stock only have 1/2 shafts,unless you buy the best line they have,which will run about the same as elka or axis and ohlins.

Hey guy,here with the up date on the leak down test,JB weld didn't work,but I didn't heat the spot up,like you guys said,wish I would of known at the time,but its a very good ideal,I used some LOCK-TITE epoxy,it worked very well,filled the holes,because I found a leak on the other side in the same place,right under the crack bearings on the outer bearing side,looks like there was a little plug in there like the middle one has,looks like a cap shaped plug.So it passed the leak down test 6psi for 20 minutes,so now I'm passed that,its on to the tuning and jetting,should be a lot easier,since I'm not jetting for an air leak,lol So I would like to know what caused the cracks and why do they mold the cases like that,because there is'nt much material inbetween there,have never seen anything like that ever happingto the cases,so thats another spot to check out guys when you do your leak down test and cant find the leak,lol thanks for listen to my story BHQ!

G.Travis Racing Saint Clair,Mo 63077 (636)221-0540 specializing in the banshee

Hey guys,building a 472 super cub,had Andy at M&M ATV hook me up on hole motor set up,great guy to deal with.but back to the story,doing leak down test and doesnt hold,has slow leak,well the first leak was intake bolt,no problem,just use some thread sealer,do test again,failed,real slow leak,sprayed every seal gasket and case,couldnt find it.grrrrr! put clutch cover back on to see if case matting surface is leaking inbetween tranny and crank case,no bubbles in the vent hoses,take motor off frame and pull cylinders off and replace base gasket,just for shits and giggles,did another leak down test,still failed!!!!Getting frustated,pissed all the above,lol start to here the leak,sounded like it was coming from in side clutch cover,lifted motor up and i really could here it better,started to spray it down and found it,its right unbetween the front crank case and the back crank case bolt,theres a molded void thats right under the crank bearing on clucth side,it has a hair line crack the bottom of that void,the size of a pincil eraser,have never seen that before,so I cleaned it out with carb spray and then rubbing alcohol,ruff it up,mixed up some fast setting J B WELD and filled the hole,I really hope it holds,I'll let it cure for 24hrs and do anther leak down test and see what happens,I've had a hard time jetting the right side so this really exsplains it all would of never have guessed it would of been there,so when you do your leak down test and can't find the leak spray the bottom of your engine,lol keep ya posted on the next leak down test and see if it passes,lol

Hey guys,can any one tell me what the torq specs are on a t-rex cool head,put 472cc motor together and cool head leaking through domes and studs,I only troq them to 28 newtons or 20 ftpd,do I need to torq them down more?please need help

yeah inside ID is bigger on cpi's

hello,no gotten rid of stock cylinders,have 72mm with 4 mil stroker,running a 472 now.

Hey guys,I'm building big bore engine,but I really like the sound of the t5s and I bought a set of in frame big bore CPI pipes and the t5 stingers mount up to the CPI jugs,do you think the t5s would have any difference on performance?

I would would say they look like a set of CT high rev pipes that are old school,the reason I say this is that we have a set that looks just like them but are painted black and have the same silencers and looks like they have the same exhaust flanges,our flanges don't have grooves for exhaust o-rings they just slide on cylinders,that's why I called them old school,our silencers have the ct racing stickers still on them,does yours have grooves for o-rings?I've tried looking them up before but didn't have any luck,ct makes drag pipes now"out of frame"haven't found no in-frame ct 2-stroke pipes.Hopes this helps.

Hey guys,looking for a good deal on new 4mil stroker crank,Look up M&M atv in OKLAHOMA,They are nice guys and sold me one for 365.00 and that includes shipping,WOW P.S thats even trued and welded!

Hey guys,was building 440,but now I'm stepping it up to a 472,just looking for some good advice to make the build go a little easier any info is helpful,I'm 442 ft above sea level,using 35 pwks,dyna cdi and coil,adjustable stator plate,160 compression,open air filters,cpi big bore pipes,complete Hinson 8 plate billet basket,inner hub and pressure plate,and Hinson cover,Thanks again for the help.

Hey man thanks for the info on the cool head o-rings,but listen to this,I found the leak,its in the casting where the power valve slides into,that's why my exhaust is filling up,on the right side.new set of 72mm and they leak,how many times have you heard of this happening,it just sucks that it happen to me,but the good news is the shop i got them from,called DASA racing and since they were new never ran that their still under warranty and send them in and they would port another set and send them to me free of charge.The shop I bought them off of had them sent to DASA to make sure the porting and cases where dialed in,because he had gotten the engine on an trade,brand new lower end,t-Rex 72mm stock stroke,power valve,full drag port,never put together,and it was one of the first ones they did,because the only numbers on it are P-1,but I pick it up cheap and put it together and ran into this problem,but like I said its all good,since the problem is getting fixed,shipped them off today!

Hey guys,hate to be a pain,but i have a t-rex 440cc and can't get this @#$%^& cool head to seal,second time I've put it on and it keeps getting in right cylinder and leaking in between the decks on the exhaust side,right in the middle,now I do all my own wrench en and I'm no idiot,hell I'm a freaking drywall contractor that hangs,finish and paints drywall and I love banshees and working on them.Now I've put together pro design cool heads and never had this much trouble,but this t-rex cool head is getting be a pain in my @ss,TDR sent me a complete o-ring kit and it has 12 o-rings in it, now the big ones go around the decks and the 2 for the domes and the 2 small ones for the for the top of the domes and the little ones for the water necks,so where does the other 2 black and red o-rings go?they are about 2 inches in diameter,do they go to the exhaust or the power valves,and where am I going wrong with.Please help if you guys have any input,I'm about to pull my hair out,and I called DASA and they said torque it at 24 ft pounds,does this sound right,because I did and it leaks,Thanks again guys for listening.

I have a dyna adjustable timing ,I usually use curve 3 which is a broad power curve and i have adjustable timing plat

I live in illinios and i would say were about 600 feet or so above sea level,I hate to have to use the t5s,but out of funds right now,poor man needs to ride.I've got a set of cts high rev pipes with fat jugs,might be better?dont know for sure,I really appreciate the input,thanks guys

Hi everybody,I purchased a t-rex 440cc power valve set up and have 35 pwk carbs,dyna ign,billet intakes with 6 inch k/n open filters,and t-5s for now until I can afford some cpi's or shears,cylinders have a full drag port with matched bottom cases,looking on alba racing web site and they said dasa recommends using 42 pilots,eek needles on 2 clip position and 142 mains,but this is for a 400 set up and probably no porting done,I have the eek needles and a pretty big jet kit that goes up to 200 mains and 60 pilots,I want to start out rich but know which one to start with,dasa jetting seems to be a little lean I think and its a fresh build and don't want to blow it up,so please give me all your input,first big bore power valve I've owned,Thanks guys

theres a hotrod stock crank on ebay 15 hours on it buy it now price of 178.00 21.00 shipping only for 2 days then buy it now price gets taken off,and you'll have to bid on it.

base gasket just gets a little damp only under intakes after ridding for awhile,case halves dry,header pipes t5s just left 1 leaking in between cyl&header,alot at start up then clears out about 80% when warmed up,not smoking out of stingers no more than normal,wondering why im getting all that build up in cyl,you think broke reed could be problem, V-froce3 reeds brand new.could be o-ring in pipe, but why so much at start up now,never did it before?I plan on replacing base gaskets with 1 peace base gasket too.thanks for the input

The reason I mention antifreeze,is that ,I didnt know if o-ring on cool head leaking,I had a water jacket plug on bottom cylinder leak and cold siez left side at 60mph going down road,replaced plugs in both cyl,and bored to 80 over from 60.but no drop in coolent bottle either.

I have a built 368 ported running cool head 20 domes 160 compression 29 pwks vforce3 reeds t5s,at start up alot of oil blows out left side at cylinder side,clears out a little when warmed up and is not running right on top end now.Doesnt smell or taste like antifreeze and base gasket wet under intakes.Anybody have any theorys on this,before I tear it down.