Huey73

There's EFI and then there is DFI. For clean running and unbelieveable acceleration its DFI and nothing runs like an Evinrude. EFI on a 2 stroke just gains a little over a carb( that is a little better fuel metering) Direct Injection gives you clean emissions and way better fuel economy. by the way I am a marine tech with over 15 yrs experience.

Thank you for sharing! Great information,much appreciated.

RIP

I've got pro circuits on mine and run 330 mains with powerlid and set of vf2 reeds. with that set up its on the edge for minus 18 degrees celsius. I just keep the same mains for the summer as I don't ride as much.

I've already tried cutting the slot out more and it still works loose,so I'm going to need a new one.

thanks guys.I'm not sure about the looks of the cascade, want one that is all alluminum. The Pro Design I have on it now but it's loose on the shaft. I think the previous owner cross threaded the bolt and I can't get it to tighten up anymore. Probably go with Pro Design.

I searched shift lever and got all kinds of levers and clutch problems on here. I think someone put the wrong shift lever on my banshee before I got it. I'm looking for a polished aluminum shift lever for the banshee. Need help finding one!

Comber, Ontario

hey Savage photos aren't coming up.i've got mine apart right now and want to do the swing arm pivot zerk. Can you post a pic again of where you put it please.

I love my pro circuits as well

amsoil dominator 32:1 for the last year. no problems yet. compression is still the same as when I bought the shee a year ago!

Thanks Ruko that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

I'm new to this sport and I've been searching the forums for a suspension set up How-To and can't find any good clear info. What I'm looking for is something to explain preload,compression,and rebound for me so I can adjust my suspension for me and the riding I do. I know you guys are going to want my weight and riding style but I was looking for more of the theory so that I can figuire it out on my own(lots to learn about everything!!)I would appreciate any help! If the info is really good hopefully it will get pinned to the top of the suspension forum.Thanks!

He could also mean the drain screw. Just open and close it a few times. It should stop leaking.

That article only deals with orbitals direct injection. I'm a marine tech that deals with both Mercury(orbital) and Evinrude(E-tec). I'll lay my money on only the E-tec. It's a much simpler design and reliability isn't a question. Orbital uses an air compressor and E-tec uses a magnet like a speaker. Both are computer controlled which makes modification easy if you can program the maps!BRP has already transferred this technology to their snowmobiles. I can't wait for the future. If they bring out an ATV I'm there in line!

I thought t304 was stainless steel. that's what mine say and I used miriatic acid and s.o.s pads, then polished with "blue magic" polish. mine were pitted rusted and had burnt nylon on them. Spent about 4 hours on them and they came out pretty good. Going to do them again this winter.

compressing the spring is not the procedure in the clymer's unless I read it wrong. I had already cleaned the left side out good but will do it again. I think I'll order a new choke assembly it doesn't want to stay out and looks pretty worn too. May be a while before I can report back I've gutted my basement due to a flood. Thanks AK!

first off history 2001 banshee,pro cicuit platinum pipes,vf reeds, just finishing tors removal. I was having trouble with a bottom-midrange bog.So I changed the clip to position2, jet pilot to 27.5 from a 30, and did a tors removal kit and was setting it up when it wouldn't idle at all. It was dumping raw fuel out the exhaust. I tried running it and shutting the petcock off and eventually the idle returned and then shot up when it finally ran out of gas. So I replaced both needle and seats. Checked the float height. Started it again and the same thing raw fuel out the exhaust, turn fuel off and it picks up. Next was putting a new o-ring on the choke plunger.still the same. Left side smokes more than right side. compression 125 and 129.please don't say ignition because when you shut the fuel off it picks up and runs normal. I also haven't set the idle screws because I can't get it running right. I read on here that somebody uses a drill bit to set the slides the same(about what size?) Any help would be greatly appreciated

Needle and seats didn't work for me still flooding out. Going after the choke circuit

Going through the same thing right now too! Flooding out bad on the left side. Replaced the needle and seats on both carbs. Just thought that it might be the choke because its on that carb. I'll report back when I get it figured out

I'm new to the banshee's but I'm a Marine Tech. I've had a mid bog on mine and was in the midst of tuning it when I decided to do the tors elimination. When I was done I couldn't get it to idle at all. Ended up be the needle and seat. I haven't got them istalled yet but my thinking is that they were the cause of the mid bog too will report back after this weekend

Just outside Windsor Ontario. Good to see some Crazy Canucks on the site!!!

Marine Technician 13 yrs fix anything on a boat but the Head(toilette). real bad experience before I learned to say NO!!!!!

try this. I couldnt tell from the vid but just step lightly on the brake lever and rev it again. there should be a rubber grommet to hold the lever off of the case or mabe its vibrating on the foot peg.

I would save myself some money by rebuilding now. Things can only get worse if you keep riding.