apeik

Has it lost any coolant?

did you replace the crank seals? usually when the right crank seal goes bad if will pressurize the tranny case and spit fluid out the overflows. My crank seperated and would leak air while under load cause the crank was moving around. just my 2cents since it's what happened to mine at the end of last season.

Alright, thanks Fast.

So ive never ran filters this big, my question to people that have run one's this big/bigger is, will running them without wrapping the stingers with something melt my outerwears or not? They're brand new and i dont wanna screw em up, thanks in advance. -Aaron

So you replaced the needle and the seal that actually goes around the brass needle seat? if so make sure to replace both, the brass seat comes out with a phillips driver, it's held in by a little half clip if it makes any sense. Only say this because i had mine leak around the seat, not past the needle.

I actually had a cdi that did somewhat the same thing, usually it would start right off the truck, turn it off after warmup and it wouldnt start, and at night it didnt want to start. checked the spark and it was really random(few sparks then nothing). Replaced the cdi and it's been bulletproof sparkwise since. if you can swap a cdi with someone i would check it out, just dont rule out the stator.

runnin pwk 28's, ported with k&n pods, fmf's, 50 pilot, 158 main, n68a needle middle clip, 1.5 turns out, this is at sea level. GL

If it's apart, drop the cash and do it, otherwise you may get halfway through a season and be doing it, not a bad time to check out the crank and get it welded if you have mods. I should know i seperated a crank last season, busted the drive side crank bearing and took the crank seal with it. Ran it lean on the right side and put a scar in my cylinder. Milage may vary, Good Luck.

El Oh El...

They also sell twisted wire wheels for angle grinders, that will take all the rust off, it also takes the gold finish off, the downside is they're like 20 bucks for a wheel, they're indestructable though. wire wheels. it's quite a bit of work wire wheel'ing pipes, but it takes it down to bare metal and leaves a pretty smooth fiinish. GL

It's rust-oleum specialty high heat satin finish, i got mine from home depot. paint link.. just sand it using 120-220 or whatnot, and use a cup gun, it comes out pretty good this way. I used a buffing wheel and white/red rouge on the polished parts, these pipes looked terrible before i painted them.

It's actually just satin black 1000 degree paint, comes in quarts

Ya not the greastest pipes, but ive been stuck with em for a few years now, they work alright with an hjr dune port.

Old school mid-top gold series ftw

pm sent

im not gonna comment on the jb weld...lol. I guess ill just take it over to kevin's and have him check it out, then go from there.

Ok so last season i heard a weird noise in my motor(like rice) and the right crank seal started leaking pressure into the crankcase. Turns out the crank was rubbing on the inside of the case slightly. Is is possible to have a stock crank pressed back togather and welded as long as everything else is good on it? Or is it a paperweight now? Thanks in advance.

I bought the trail/dune clutch from Driveline with the stiffer springs, it's a great clutch. Supposedly holds 75-90+ horse without a lockup.

had the same problem last year, wouldnt start at night/when it was hot, was only getting spark every 10 or so hard kicks, replaced the cdi and havnt had a problem since. mine was a 1995. ended up using a newer 3gg-10 cdi just switched the plug out.

I always start in 2nd gear when i race. But it's always on sand/dirt. I dont hold it WOT in 6th all that much, but when im racing or hauling ass ill do it...and i always silently think to myself "dont blow up, dont blow up, dont blow up"

X3 on the 6th gear prayer, i think works

I'd imagine it dries non sticky right? how it used to work on the kitchen floor.

Dont run it with those jet's in it. Go pick up 240-270 main jet's and work your way down. It's running way lean right now.

no one? someone's gotta have expierence with this.

Ok, so it's NGK part LB05F, for the plug boot that snaps straight on the plug threads. Is there a reason people dont run these or a reason i should'nt run them?