Darthwall

ya that was the problem first off someone tried making them fit and got them to work he never talked about how much more effort it takes to turn the danm thing but the damage is dome I haven't given up on this I will try and sit down this weekend and figure out what needs to be done and shit for the fun of it I will figure out two different options

you could probably rechamber and o-ring a stock head for it

depending on the sleeves installed I dont think you can go over a 69.50 unless you have alot of cash into the cylinders buy a different set you can probably come out cheaper in the end

at that comp I would say get different domes lower it to 165 and lower run your gas once jetting is looking good

yes I know the upper arm prob but this fix could go either way if its a dune bike the uppers with corrected lower would make the arms close to a .5" and maybe 1"forward. if you keep the bottom arms its more like a +3+2 and if you move the shock mount closer to the body you get more travel I am no professional fab guy by any means but can get shit done

well I haven't run any quotes on materials yet it still in the thought process as of now but you have the exact idea of what I am trying to do.

sent pm your way

I am talking about using the upper arm and building a lower so the joints would line up and move the shock mount up so the the front would be a long travel meening a shock mount is placed more forward. anyways it would be replacing 2 arms instead of 4 meaning cost for build would be low I know there are a ton of builders out there but I havent seen this yet

shit post up some pics I havent made the attempt yet but it will be soon

well I know it doesn't help much but i have one 33 pwk

I have a nice 2into1 with either 33 pwk or 34 pj with twist cable and umi filter but I dont need the head lol

yes I now it is but for the people who got suckerd into to first round and are out 200 bucks this could be a cheep fix

very little if you bump timing up the comp goes up you probably wont notice much

I have been cheching things out on these for awhile If I made some upper or lower arms to correct the prob who would be interested? It would either be the tops with heimjoints. or the the lowers the same maybe not I figure if I can make a decent set work great and make it so the yfz shocks give us what they are capable of doing and at the least get the 1" or so we lost who would be in?

155 mains and 48 pilots im running this at 1000ft you might want richer for the temp and alt

you are controlling the fuel mixture if you have a hjr dune port this is a good start depending on pipes 155 mains and 48 pilots, you are good to go im running cel needles at about 1000ft

without compresion test you never know 160 comp and below run 92 but 165 and above start mixing 110 and 92 atleast

permatex moto 1 is good stuff alot cheaper than going to yamaha used it on my lockup first time it didn't lrak

this is no bs I took my drag motor out about this time last year and melted a piston and put a whole in the cases need new sleeves ouch 105hp gon fast you need to make this a banner

up again

ive run my my 446 4mill on sbif cpi's and that made a drag motor feel like a dune bike it had great lower and top but it was a drag bike so after 70mm 4mill or 66mm 7mill big bore pipes work good if you want to tone it down sb

phelps has one

ya 168 is way big for gas if you want to give them a shot I have a 4 mill dune port with cpi's 34 pjs CEL needles on 3rd clip 155 main 50 pilot and air screw 3 turns out good luck

good luck

x2 the 115 rod reduces the load on the piston side to sides but the pistons are made for this change if you use a 110 rod cranck with blaster or 4mm 115 rod pistons they will be way off