firebanshee
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Posts posted by firebanshee
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When you replace the plugs you should put on new spark plug caps also.Just unscrew the spark plug wire ends off the wires and trim the end of the wire and screw the new ones on.They have an internal resistor inside of them that fail and cause runability issues,this is a common problem.I like to change mine about once a year before they fail.They only cost about 5$ apiece,NGK sells good replacement ones.If you don't replace them with a resistor style cap then you need to make sure and use a resistor style spark plug,there has to be a resistor in the system or you will damage the cdi.I have resistor caps and plugs but i have heard you can use one or the other with no damage.Older banshees ran a b8es plug which is non resistor and newer ones run br8es,which is a resistor plug.
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X3 for new plug caps.
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How do 99% of us learn 99% of what we know?
FROM OTHER PEOPLE.
That said, I've heard guys that have run every pipe under the sun say that they like the t-6 best for low end out of all the pipes they've used.
I don't have that kind of experience with pipes, and this is ONLY their opinion, so take it for what it is.
Why dont you try to talk byro12 into running a single carb set up, T-6s,throw away his coolhead and shave his stock one,then run your hacked up port job you keep talking about, he would be hauling ass then.
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Im going to build a 4 mill im planning on using 115 rods stroker pistons and stroker domes. Do the cylinders need to be ported?
Yes,if they are already ported you need to see if they can be reported for the crank.If you have cylinders that are ported aggressively you cant report them.
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I will stick with REDLINE,he to is a site sponser.
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T-5s will run circles around T-6s on any motor, hands down i have tried it.T-6s SUCK ASS.
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You will definitely want a duneable override,one of the best mods you can do on a bike like that.Without one you won't be happy.
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My bad, by off-road I meant trails, sand, dirt. No drag (paved or sand) what I do is sometimes "drag" with other banshees (not drag ones) to see which is fastest but not as a hobby like most of you shee's
And question was if I get a drag port, will it help when I trail?
You do not want a drag port if you trail ride.Get a 4mil crank and have your cylinders ported to match your riding style.If your budget doesn't allow for the crank just go for a good port job.
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T-6s suck ass compared to T-5s.T-5s work great on ported and non ported motors,if you are looking for a mid to topend pipe.T-6s don't work on ported motors,just buy T-5s and be done with it.
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Spark plug caps?Blown resistor inside the caps?
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You would see no benifit from switching fuels,your motor doesn't need race fuel.You don't need race fuel till about 160.
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I'm pretty sure once you go with a 7mil you have to trench the case. If that being true might as well go 10 mil crank. I'm pretty sure the cranks cost the same.
X-2, The 10mil costs the same to build as the 7mil,maybe cheaper since there are more of them,go with the 10mil.
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Haha, yeah, I double checked, the powerbands are in the right way and I only have a single carb so no screwing up which way the slides go in. Right now I'm leaning towards the coil just by process of elimination and I just tested it and it failed the ohms test between the secondary circuits as said in the Clymer manual.
Are you sure it didn't fail because of the resistors in the boots? VERY common problem, coils don't fail that often.I replace boots about once a year.Boots cost about $5 a piece.Take off the boots off the wires and check them by themselves.5 k ohms
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have you been in my shop?!
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Based on your selection of pipe I assume you ride mostly tight woods.
I think you would be much better off with some t-6's for that.
Dynoport is a loud stock pipe. If the engine is ported it will likely perform better with the dynoport (questionable though), however on a stock ported engine you are throwing your money away IMO
Everyone is entitled to there opinion,but T-6s.I think they are a waste of time.imo.Pro circuit is a proven pipe in woods riding with alot of potential.
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Also it depends on tire size and the number of paddles you run, if you run paddles.I like 22 inch tall tires for ground clearance so i like the 13 tooth for sand,plus i weigh 235.
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Worn rings won't cause a knocking sound.If you had a loose rod bearing it could cause low compression and a knocking sound.You could have a worn bore or a collapsed or a broken piston skirt.With a piston problem the noise is usually louder when it is cold.Do you have the top end torn apart?The knock could be worn clutch basket cusions,the big gear on the back of the clutch basket is it really loose?It will move back and forth some.If you throw a top end kit on your motor and the kock is in the side cover when you are done you will still have the knock.
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Ok guys, like the title says, for some reason my powerband is disappearing. It will go out after I've ridden it for about a minute then it is just pure bog and smokes a lot where it was. Idles great but after idle, about where the powerband kicks in, there is nothing. It runs through where the powerband was but smokes a lot and there isn't any power and I have to let the Banshee sit for about a day for it to come back, and it only does so for about a minute. I just put this together and it ran great through the break in period, but after I broke it in and was riding regularly the powerband quit pretty much when I was out riding. I had to idle it back home.
Things I have done are: played with the jetting, cleaned the carb, cleaned the air filter, changed spark plugs, cleaned the carb again, took my exhaust out, since it had been sitting in a barn for about a year and determined nothing had built a nest in it, I'm out of ideas on what this can be guys. It's a 96 so it doesn't have a parking break and the tors is disconnected.
Change your spark plug caps.Unscrew the factory ones of the ends of the plug wires and install new NGKs.They have resistors inside of them that blow and cause you to lose your spark when the power band kicks in.Your bike will idle and run with blown resistors but wont run properly under a load.
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Actually, I took it apart tonite, and found some pretty serious damage on my left piston. Almost like something was bouncing around, then I noticed a small dome sticking vertically out of the piston. It is a small dome like 3 mil diameter 5 mil long and it looks like steel, versus aluminum, its almost like a nerd candy in steel.
Anyone have any idea where this might have come from?
Sounds like the pin in the piston that locks your piston rings in place.The pin were the ring gap goes.
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X2 remove the TORS.
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so, shoud I advance my timing or should I not be running a mix? motor is a 4 mil with FAST play port, 21cc domes. I have the timing set at +4. I am at 800ft above sea level. I am at 165psi on each side.
You need to run a mix.You can not compare jetting changes from av gas to race gas,they are different fuels.You wont notice more power by mixing race gas it will just keep you from destroying your motor.
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firebanshee, on 28 May 2010 - 10:28 PM, said:
Make sure were your coil mounts you have all the paint cleaned off,that is were your coil grounds it has to make good contact there.
i have not taken the paint off where the coil mounts.. its starts right up and sparks great until i ride it. once i take it for a ride its like it the spark is diminished
UMMMMMM, like i said clean off the paint, obliviously it is not working properly under a load.The coil HAS to be grounded there to work right.What about were the ground wire goes by the cdi?You have to have good grounds.
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Make sure were your coil mounts you have all the paint cleaned off,that is were your coil grounds it has to make good contact there.
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FREEDOM OF SPEECH.
what kind of air filter?
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
I run the sand and LOVE the pod filters(K&N clamp on)when the air box is removed i use the mounting tabs and put zip ties through the holes and around the filters to help support them.