maxtrax

I was doing some trail riding earlier this year and was riding pretty hard. It was mostly flat and I could run 4-6gear most all the time. It was about 6 miles before we ran out of trails and had to turn around. When we turned around I checked my gas tank and realized that I had to ride a little lighter on the way back as I had only about 1/2 tank. That day I rode about 12-14 miles total and was right on the verge of switching to reserve. The guys I ride with run 4-stroke and have plenty of gas (I know 4-strokes get better mpg). Just curious what mpg you get and what type of riding you do?

With the carbs upside down. You bend the floats upward while holding the needle plate stationary. Think of it this way. If the floats are to stay on top of the gas, bending them this way will stop the flow when the level is lower.

I just moved my coolant overflow up into the nose of my shee. It is under the front plastic, between the bumper and the radiator. Just use the same tube (trim it of course) and use two heavy zip-ties to attach it to the frame. As far as the tube from the cylinder head. That should have a tube to the radiator. >>There is a link above on how to sync your carbs (or to get it close remove your air filters and watch the slides. They should both reach the top at the exact same time.) Hope that helps you

After my rebuild I ran without plastics for a while. The purpose was to make sure everything worked right before re-installation. I think a full black shee similar to the one above (only with a seat and handlebars :biggrin: ) would look kick ass. edit: and maybe front bumper and rear grab bar too

Turf Tamers are pretty wicked. Mostly trail riding and stuff. A guy I ride with used to have Holeshots and talked me into the Turf Tamers. I never had Holeshots but he said the TT hook up better.

Don't mean to sound like a dick but there is a full forum on Banshee suspension. Second, that sentence, if thats what you want to call it was extremely confusing. Now to answere the question, yes you will want to change your suspension. The extended arms will increase the leverage and make your stock/preexisting shocks seem squishy. Just do a little reading in the suspension forum to find something that will fit your riding.

I think it will. My boss used to race Banhsee's a while back so if I really need help with it maybe I'll have him show me. I think that explanation sounds simple enough though.

That pic is exactly the thing I have been looking for. Thanks a million!!! No I don't know how to adjust it. That slotted stud need to be pointing toward the shift shaft just like in the pic right? If not please explain for me. And just to prevent confusion. It drops into gear pretty heavy like it is supposed too and stays in gear, the shift shaft doesn't pop back to the middle. Thanks guys, Maxtrax

I am planning on pulling side cover tommorrow. I don't know if there is any way to adjust is as there seems to be absolutely no tension at all on the shifter. That is the part I am worried about.

I just did a top end rebuild and took it out the other day on one of my breakin runs. After about a 1/3 tank of gas I was turning around and couldn't get it to downshift more than once. As it turns out, the shifter was not popping back to the center possition meaning that I coudn't shift down unless I popped the shifter back to the middle spot myself. I know it has something to do with the spring on the shift rod but cannot tell from parts breakdown pics where exactly the spring is. If someone can tell me what course of action is nessecary that would be great. I am hoping I just have to drain the coolant and take the side cover/clutch off to access the spring right? Please tell me I don't have to split the case. Also, any other input is appreciated. Maxtrax

Thanks, I have never seen either of those before. Will those work pretty good in sand too? I am kinda looking for a tire that serves both purposes.

I live in michigan and like to snowmobile. I have never really thought about it until this summer when I thought about getting paddle tires. It turned out I decided against them, but was wondering how much difference they make in snow? This could make it worth looking into getting them agian if they help much.

The chokes on mine don't seem to work. Sometimes I have to blow in one of the vent tubes to get it to prime in order to start. Would that be a problem with the chokes or the pilot not being big enough. Can the chokes even go bad?

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? - FMF Fatty Gold + Power Core II silencers 2) What type of airfilter do you have? - UNI 6" pods with outerwears 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all - No Airbox 4) What is your elevation? - 600ft ASL 5) What size pilot jets are you using? - 25 (thinking about going to 27.5 or 30) 6) What size main jets are you using? - 310 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? - 40-80*F 8) Do you have a port job? - yes.. not sure what though 9) What kind of carbs? - Mikuni Stockers minus TORS 10) What size carbs? - stock 11) Shaved head? Not yet. (these are before the current work.. it was boggy on the bottom and I am reboring/shaving the head)

Is there anything special about the choke tube between the carbs or would a piece of fuel line work? My chokes haven't worked for a while, but I used a piece of fuel line because it was missing.

I pulled the reeds off and they do have ever so slight of gaps on one on each side. I did take advantage of the open intake to take a better look at the piston/cylinder. To me it looked like a piece of wire was run through the engine. When I went to order new parts the guy at the shop (who sold parts to the guy I bought the bike from) said that he had not been able to find one of his circlips for the piston. We both decided that he had dropped it into the engine and you can guess from there. The thing still ran but it was tore up inside. Either way, a rebuild is in store for me.

You could have a crank seal leak. That would be under the side cover and explain why you are not finding it.

Ok, so I did a compression check when it was cold and it read 115 on both sides, I have had it as high as 135 (but with a different tester) so I decided to pull the pipes and look inside. The RH cylinder and piston look great. However, the left cylinder/piston has some slight scoring on right side of exhaust port (left side when looking up the exhaust). I have not checked my reeds becuase I ran out of time. I am wondering how much damage I could do if I just leave it? As long as both sides are running the same compression is it fine? (It is bored .040 over and I know the next size has to be .060 over so could I gouge it any deeper if I keep running it?) The scorring could be caused by a small coolant leak in that spot too right? You guys are great and I really appreciate all the help!

Thanks. So am in understanding you correctly that to check them I need to remove the reed cages and make sure the reeds are closing? Also, how often should I have to add to my coolant overflow. I remounted it in the nose because I was told it would cause a siphon when wheeliing if it was in the back. I can fill my radiator completely and the resevoir about 1/2 way and ride for about a tank of gas (I usually don't ride much longer than that). Then next time I go to ride it seems that the overflow needs to be filled again/is empty. No it isn't leaking anywhere unless it is internal.

I did a simple plug check after a 6th gear run and it was lean so I rejetted to 310 mains. I reset the pilot screws all the way in, ran it for a while and let it sit over night. The next morning I tried to start it and it was the same thing. Do the air screws need to be out a little from bottom or can they be lightly seated? I still have to do a plug chop and I am going to get a set of 27.5 and 30.0 pilot jets.

No I have not. I will try that tommorrow.

That is where they are set at. I have tried a little out and a little in from there too. I also found the other day that one of the screws was missing the spring from underneath it and installed one. A while back I had 310 mains in it and thought that it was too rich (which it was) and that 300 mains would fix it. That fixed the richness problem but not the starting problem.

I will try increasing the jet to a 30. I think that when I got it that one of the carbs had a 30 in it but the other was a 25. I put them both at 25 to make them even but am thinking that may have an effect. Does anyone do a cool at the end of their run? I am wondering if because I usually do a little lighter lap before parking that that may have an effect? Thanks for the advice.

Thanks for the link.

I bought a Banshee earlier this summer because the carbs were all screwed up. When I first got it it started first kick every time but ran like crap. Here is what I did to it. Put the proper slides in the R/L carbs Installed proper air jets as they were different R/L Jetted from 220 to 300 as I put on 6"UNI filters and it had FMF Fatty Golds and PowerCore2 silencers. I run 93 octane and Maxima Castor 927 oil in it. It does bobble a little at about 1/4 throttle but idles good and runs great wide open. The problem that I am running into is that it doesn't start good after sitting for more than a couple hours (starts fine when warm). It pisses me off when I want to ride and it wont friggin start :mad: I am going to do a plug chop but can't find the link and haven't had time. Thanks Andrew