Wheelie Ripper

Hi, I am looking to buy a set of +2+1 or +3+1 or any size close a-arms. Let me know what you have, Thanks!!

Thank you very much for your help, now if the bike needs it before the crank goes I can slap one in quickly until the winter time rip down and rebuild/

Thanks for the input, I'm not scared of pulling the motor apart, I was a a-tech GM mechanic before deciding to go back to school. My crank bearings felt a little rough when I did the top end so I know I will need a crank soon. But if i need the seal before then, i rather just slap it in to get me by then ripping it all down, then doing the seals, then ripping it down again to do the crank. I didnt know there was some sort of lip, but many automotive seals are just press in and have no problems, thats why i figured i could do it that way. Any pics of just a bottom half being removed? im curious to see what come out. Thanks Bobby

I was wondering if it is possible to replace a crank seal without splitting the cases, just pull the side cover, take the two gears off the crank, pull the seal and drive the new one in. I don't see why it is necessary to split the cases, but I have never had the low end apart on one of these bikes. To get the seal out I would just put a screw into the seal enough to bite and then use a slide hammer to pull it out. Do you guys think that this would work? Thanks Bobby

Its what makes your banshee fast, I use the green power bands in mine :yelrotflmao:

Do you happen to have a flywheel? Thanks

the rear brake is your friend, learn to cover it and to use it.

bump

Update: I have been playing around with the banshee all day today trying everthing I could think of. The two leads going to the coil were a little sloppy so i tightend them up a little. I also had a brand new coil sitting around so I put that in. The bike runs good for longer now but eventually starts acting up but not as bad as it was. I ohm checked the boots and found one read 150K ohms and the other is OL (open circuit). I was wondering if this could be the gremlin I have been chasing. If so, where do purchase the NGK boots? Thanks

That is my only other guess is the CDI and there is no way to test it so I am lost. All my wiring checks out, resistances are all in spec, RS said that the increase in my stator is normal with temperature so it is very possible that it is a CDI issue,

Let me know if that fixes it, i leave for school in 4 days and wont have time to mess with mine until break so I am interested to see if that fixes it.

I talked to RS and they said I can send it in and they can test it out on their banshee. It is really strange how it only does it after you ride for a few minutes, then the power just drops off. The raised edges on the fly wheel got a little chewed up when the bolt came out of the old stator, but that doesn't explain to me why it runs great when first started and then like crap. Maybe the CDI has a thermal high or low resitance internally but I have no clue.

Plugs look fine, I switched them out and there is no difference. its not so much of a bog, but there is a hesitation and it doesn't have as much power as it should when it acts up. the exhaust pitch sounds deeper too. All this happened after the rs stator was installed

sounds like the same problem i am having right now. After about 20 minutes the bike started hesitating through the entire rpm range but idled fine, it cools off and runs ok for about 5 minutes and the same stuff. Stator bolts backed out just like yours and I replaced with a RS. Still trying to figure mine out

Ok, I checked the gap on my pickup coil which is fine, checked the ground and that looked ok and ohmed out ok. I did notice that when when I let it cool off a little bit, the source coil in the stator had about 20 ohms and ran great, as soon as it warmed up and started running like garbage i found it had about 25 ohms. Could this be my problem since specs are between 13.7 and 20.5?

Im running a mix of VP red which i think is 110 and 92. I put a ricky stator Stator in which is what I think may be my culprit. I am almost 100 percent sure I'm at +4 or 5 because it does run stronger then before when it does run well. Im going to check that ground now, if it is just soldered poorly, should i just relocate it? Thanks for the help

Hi, I have a 95 Banshee that ran very well until my stator bolts backed out and the stator hit the flywheel. I ordered a ricky stator before reading posts on here about them. The bke starts right up and run great for about 10 minutes and then starts bogging like crazy. If you let it sit for about 35-40 minutes or longer, it will start right up and run great for about 10 minutes and then run like garbage until you let it cool off. Background on the bike is I put in a ricky stator stator, I also changed it to between +4 and +5 advance timing. I run 50/50 mix of super ad vp red with honda HP2 oil mixed at 32:1. Bike has 125 psi compression in both cylinders when cold. I was wondering if it is possible that this stator is the problem. Today I will ohm it out, then ride it until it acts up and then ohm it again and see if that could be the culprit. Any ideas of what could be wrong and am i over looking anything? Thanks for any help.