bansheeboy91

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/spo/6102449918.html figured I'd throw this out there.

YFZ vs Works. I've got works on the front for now. they haven't been serviced or replaced in the 7 years I've had the bike. I have an oportunity to swap them out for YFZ shocks from a 2013 450R. Any thoughts? Suspension on my bike is old and beat up but still rideable. Opinions?

In my neck of the woods, you'd be lucky to pocket $2800-$3100

They do. Y29L. Got it through TDR about a month ago.

It's a stock crank, just an OEM replacement. As you can see, when the crank is seated, the ring gets pushed up by the half moon clip about 1/8th IN.

I'm trying to upload a picture, but my pic is bigger then 50KB.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine from crank up. I've got the bottom end soitting in the case, but before I seal it up, I have a question. The crank I ordered has rubber O-Rings on both sides. On the clutch side, the half moon clip sits in the same groove as the rubber O-Ring. Do I run the O-Ring AND the half moon clip, or remove the rubber rings?

If money doesn't grow on trees, why do banks have branches? Why do drive up ATM's have Brail on the keypad? If 7/11 is open 24/7, why do they have locks on the doors?

???

If its sand you want then stay away from AZ haha...If your up to the drive come try your luck at $100 hill... heres a couple quick vids (not of me) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwGZaChMJuo&feature=related

depending on your mods you should be around 320-340 mains in stock carbs

Well im lost at what its going to take to get my bike tuned up perfect... Bored .30 T5's HJR Dune Port K&N Pods New top end Stock carbs I started at 340 mains, and fouled those plugs within the first few rides...so on and so on all the way down to 300's and im still fouling plugs/bogging right before the powerband... Have the needle all the way down in the 5th clip, and have tried moving it up and down with no success...I have the crossover tube in also...I called Kevin and he told me to just keep going lower and lower untill it doesnt foul anymore... Any ideas??? I dont really wanna run my bike with 280's in there if i can help it

i have the same set up as you, but i have T5's insted...After i broke my motor in i took it to a local shop and they did a dyno run...My jetting is still a little off and i walked away with 68 HP

Oh no the crank is gone...seized up big time...but just the right side...left is fine...It was little pieces of piston that got caught under the crank that caused the scratches...guess i should have put that in the first post huh???

Long story short my top end blew up. The right piston was the cause. When i split the cases and got the crank out i noticed it scratched up the case under the crank. I know its not good but should i be that worried about it? Its early here and dont feel like getting p to get the camara. The marks are not that deep but still really noticable. Ill get pics A.S.A.P.

If you ever have a question about a part/what it is/cost go to bikebandit.com... heres what you need man http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2001-yamaha-banshee-yfz350n/o/m6965#sch106355

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&q=yamaha+banshee+top+end+repair+kit&aq=f&aqi=&aql=f&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=a50d8bbb4089c98a

A properly built shee will out run everything out there...And like stated above me without a solid port job i dont think you would win...but anythings possible

All depends on what kind of riding you do. And what mods/future mods you want also.

i sent my heads to HJR on tuesday for a port/full top build..bore/hone/pistons/ect for $600 killer deal if you ask me

I think its due for a top end build...if its realy on the original bore...better to do it now before anything happens