SLORYDER

If you do not drag nor plan to drag you will be happier with some v-paddles. They turn/ slide 100% better. I'd recommend the skat track edge. 20 inch tire on 10 inch rim. If you drag race someone with haulers they will smoke you though.

Generally pople go .020". I have not heard of this ever causing a problem.

Man you just said you could safely cut .020" with good gains. Similar to a cool head. Now what's your problem with checking the squish and then bringing it down to .035". Do you think that this may add too much compression for race fuel? And I never said anything about cranking compression...It is all about uccr and I know this man. Do you believe the volume of the stock head can vary enough to cause problems with .035" squish and race fuel?

I tend to disagree. Your stock squish is approximately .068" generally. If you mill it .020" that drops the squish to .048", and as you just stated there would be a nice cheap bump in power, using the stock dome design. Now, instead of milling it .020", let's go .035", or the equivalent to achieve .035" squish. Now your squish would be close to perfect, and you would be set up for race fuel. Guess what, you could run a .015" thicker head gasket, and be EXACTLY where you were in your hypothedical .020" milling situation. You would still be in premium unleaded range, and you would have a nice bump in power. So although Brandon won't admit it, due to the fact he's a professional builder and also trying to support his work, you can in fact cut one head and have multiple uses for it. And like I said before, the difference in power would be less than noticeable. So. Cut the head approximately .035" to achieve .035" squish, and buy a .015" thicker head gasket. This way you can run premium or race fuel as easy as changing the gasket. Not saying this is the absolute most efficient way to do things, but if you have other things to spend money on besides your atv, it would be a great alternative to a cool head.

Tell you what. If it don't sell by saturday, I'll trade you. PM me your phone number.

I was really, reeeaaally hoping someone would chime in with an intelligent answer. Thank you. Do you believe that a head cut for race fuel can be used in a pump gas situation if you were to use a thicker head gasket? I realize there would be some inefficiency due to the squish band, but the bike with the thicker gasket (pump gas)would still perform better than stock, if the need for pump gas would arise right?

Not everyone needs more than +4

Sorry. I meant head gasket.

OK guy

Learn to read guy. I said"get a sense" that a woman has an interest in you. As in that's the best you can do. geez. Anyway Matt, I'm going to try to be an adult here and stop with the bickering. Internet or not it's just plain childish.

Sooo tempting man. I really need the money though.

I was there at the Vera fight when he broke Vera's cheek bone with that elbow. Dude is bad.

I realize that not many will go out and buy a dreme and try to cut their own cylinders, although you can get 10hp out of them pretty easily. I just keep seeing people recommending to the newbs timing plate cool head and pipes to start off with, when they would be MUCH happier with pipes milled head modding their own timing plate and porting for the same money. I mean you would gain twice the horsepower doing it my way for the same money. The guy who spent his money on a colhead instead of some porting will feel like a douche when he gets smoked by the guy with the stock head. Cntrary to popular belief, not everyone plans on spending their kids college money on their banshee. If you plan on dedicating your life to your banshee and trying out different cranks and so on, maybethe cool head is a good idea. If not, just mill the stock head. and port it. You will be happy you did when you dust the kid who shelled out 250 bucks for a cool head and is now broke. Even used, you will spend 100 more for the same performance. If you were mattsec, you could spend that money on a hooker, so you could at least get a sense that a woman has somewhat of an interest in getting to know you.

You'd have to be an idiot to believe that the cool head can cause your bike to run 70% cooler. Right up your alley.

Like I said earlier, if the difference was significant the manufacturer would state numbers on their site. You guys have no proof other than what has been told to you. You are better off spending the money on porting. Bottom line. Unless you want to "look" cool, or plan on going all out.

Don't you find it funny that the manufacturers of these cool heads NEVER state an actual amount that the heads reduce the coolant temperature? Don't you think that if it was a significant amount they would be proud to state the amount of degrees cooler your banshee would run? Well, they DON'T. Ask yourself why. It's because they DO NOT provide any SIGNIFICANT reduction in coolant temperature. Bottom line. Sure, more aluminum plus fins equals extra cooling, but it is not significant enough of a difference for these guys to state on their website. That is lame. They provide no proof, yet people are quick to jump on the bandwagon. Think about it.

Whenyou mill the stock head you actually improve the squish. I don't see why you defend this cool head thing so much without any evidence to back it up....? I have heard far more stories telling how they got no additional cooling with a cool head.

If you plan on running only a 350 I don't see how it's worth it. Even if you want to go 4 mill, all you have to do is buy another stock head and run a thicker head gasket. Now a drag bike, re-chamber ot cool head.

I promise you you can feel 4 horsepower.

It is well known that the vitos pistons deliver a consistent 5-6hp. I know that the timing and vf3 reeds ad to add another 2. So that leaves 2-4 hp that the head delivered. No more than 5. And on the bikes I've ridden with shaved heads, the bump was very noticeable, telling me it was at least 3 or 4 horsepower.

Herc, a few pages back I stated that if you could pick one up for cheap and planned on doing a ot of builds it was a decent Idea. I'm just saying man for 1 or 2 hp it isn't worth it in my book. Even if you can get one for 150 used that's 100 more than the stock shaved head. For 1 or 2 hp. You could put that toward a more aggressive port job and have more like an 8 to 10 hp bump... But in your case apparently it was a decent investment. Not a lot of people change setups that often though. Comparitively speaking.

I just gave you proof. I KNOW milling the stock head is good for 3-4 hp. Same as the cool head. Like I said on a drag ported engine where you can cut the squish band to give you optimal velocity over a very narrow range, then yes, you can get big gains out of the cool head. But for your average build, the shaved head is good enough.

Oh here we go. When I made the colon blow topic, and gave you my testimony from ACTUAL experience you didn't want to believe me. If i DID do the actual testing myself you would make up an excuse why it wasn't legit. You'd say oh well it musta been colder on thaat day or some I think that chart I posted is proof enough. I think anyone with a brain that is NOT brainwashed can clearly see I am right.

[quote name='donkeypuncher' date='02 August 2010 - 01:43 PM' timestamp='1280778234' post='1155561' i dont get how you still think you're right after so many people have voted "yes" and have told you why a cool head rules over a stock milled and rechambered head. if you ask me i'd say you were the "brainwashed" one. I'm brainwashed because I showed proof that a cool head only gains 2 to 4 horsepower, the same as a milled stock head? Where's your proof that I'm wrong? Not ONE person that voted yes has ANY proof, so yeah, I'd say you are all brainwashed, actually.

That's all you got, huh?