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Thats messed up that it was stolen. I know if I got my bike jacked and I found out who it was I would definantly be goin to jail for assault, luckily mines in pieces in my locked shop right now so unless they just want certain parts i think Ill be ok. Hope you find it thought bro, if not it'll catch up with them sh*t always does!

Yeah I think theres more to it too but yeah a little like clean-up porting, But I may reconsider and just have it done I just would like to know how to do it!

So I want to do my own porting, but I dont exactly know how much to take out and where exactly to cut. I know you guys have gone over it before and im sure this wont be the last time cuz someone else will probably ask this same question, but I've heard of stencils you can use to port your engine where would I buy one of these. Also I am going to run Wiseco pro-lite pistons and I know ypur suppose to like port the engine to the pistons so how would I do that and what other tips can you guys give me

yeah that sounds more like the right thing lol. but what pilot jets should i run and what notch should the needle clip be on

Ok guys so i got it running and everything working, but I completely wore out the clutch now. So its goin to be a winter project with painted plastics a ton of engine mods and other hop-ups however i need a little help. Im goin to run NOSS head with 20cc domes, Vito's forged power pistons, aggressive trail/mild dune port, Toomey T-5's, a heavy duty clutch kit from FAST, and adjustable timing set at +4 and im going to run an open air box, cuz ride in kinda wet muddy conditions, but i need help with the jetting. Im at 200-500 feet above sea level I think i should be at about 300 on the mains but what should i run on the pilots and is this right for the mains? im running the stock carbs, but may have them bored

I almost got the shee put back together.... Its all stock except for open air box lid. However, I need to know when I let off the clutch it doesnt seem like it bogs it just wont take off very good Im pretty sure the clutch is just slipping alot cuz when I rev it high and let off slow itll start kinda good, but i cant drop the clutch or run not rev it high cuz itll barely move till it gets goin a little, am I right about the clutch slipping? Thanks everyone on the HQ that has helped me get it finished up and helped me through my trouble shooting

thanks branden. I think i need to adjust the clutch like you were sayin I did it a little but the adjustment piece on the preasure plate may be a little off still. Also if i need another disc there I cant exactly just go to my local yamaha dealer and buy one plate so how would i get a hold of one?

Let me get this right you pulled the plug caps and it still ran? The only thing i can think of like that would be its acting like a diesel engine and your compressionn is so high your spark plugs are acting like glow plugs... Id do a compression test, but if your compression is that high I dont think it would even start without high octane fuel

No i didnt do anything like that. I think i need new discs and to adjust the clutch cuz I think its not closing all the way when the lever isnt pulled

ok... Yeah Ive tried a bunch of stuff and im pretty sure its the clutch too. Idk what it is though i think its just slipping alot... So I may just have to get a clutch disc set.

Haha I did all that... Idk it acts like it shifted and everything it seems normal it just wont move...idk if the shift forks are broken or what... but like i said if its not a simple fix im just gonna say the hell with it and tear it apart... and have a bunch of owrk done and put a bunch of aftermarket parts in it

So I bought an 2000 shee about 2 months ago it was kinda abused but i couldnt beat the price... it was a husband and wife divorce deal where she was mad and i got it for $500 bucks. I tore it comletely apart painted the chassis and have been putting it back together... I didnt really mess with the motor though. The only thing I did was put new rings cushions on the clutch... other than that it is all stock... when i put it back together it ran good but it wouldnt go into gear... at first I thought i put the clutch in wrong and it was slipping so i took it apart and I did so I fixed it and put it back together, however that did not fix it... I just flat out wont go into gear. Im hoping its something easy to remedy. Does any one have any ideas on what goin on so I can get it fixed. My other option is if I have to do anything more than taking off the clutch cover or the fly wheel cover Im done for the summer im just gonna put some money together and turn it into a winter project and tear the motor completely apart. What do you guys think is the problem, or what do you think about taking it apart?

When you mean clutch kit do you mean the $80-100 discs and springs kit or are you talking about the $800 complete clutch kit with basket and discs and everything

Its ok brandon... thanks for the help though guys. I actually was able to have a buddy bend one up out of some steel just temporary though cuz i am gonna go with some T-5's once I get everything workin right and ride it a little

Ok guys so I got the shee all button up and went to ride it and i put it in gear and went no where. Itll go into gear and when I hit the throttle itll just barely try and move then do nothing... I have a feeling its the clutch, because I just had it apart and it was lookin pretty worn, but I replaced the cushion rings and put it back together. Can you guys help, I need to know what it could be

Ok bro let me set you straight... no A stock shee wont go 95-100. And as far as the YFZ vs. Banshee... from what Ive seen and heard from people on here a stock shee vs. YFZ the YFZ will win but you run an open air box and after market exhaust and get your jetting dialed in and you can beat a piped YFZ now of course this is goin to depend on wjat terrain your on because like the other guy said a stock shee beating a piped YFZ up a dune hill climb isnt un heard of. It just depends on how each bike is set up and the terrain.

ok guy so I am almost done puttin my shee together its all stock except open airbox lid. I want to mod it out but first I want to see how it runs stock and sync the crabs and tune it. Heres the problem... I need the little 7" tube the goes in between the pipe and the silencer on the right side with the stock exhaust... so anyone out there got one, like if you guys put after market exhaust and have all the stock parts... will you please PM me if you can help

Good job bro... we all gotta start some where. Mine was in almost just as bad of shape but all stock... I bought it a few months ago and have been nickle and diming it back together. Its almost done now just waiting for an exhaust piece and for some sun so I can finish painting the plastics. Its nice to see some one else starting out with almost nothing and seeing what theyve done

Yeah bro dont feel bad im kinda new to banshees also but I not to 2-strokes in general, and that jetting sounds kinda high. Im at 200-500 above sea level and my buddy runs 240 with pipes and open air box lid. I have open airbox lid and i run stock jets I thinks its like 220, so I would say depending on your elavation between 240 and 270 would be pretty good, of course if your kinda high in elavation youd need more than that but like the other guy said at a high elavation 310 max! but id try just buying a jet kit and go 290 and see where that gets you then go up or down from there

yeah bro id go with a swing arm, but after a bit you should develope EFI for a banshee

ok thanks. Well ill just ignore it for now and once I get the shee all buttoned up ill get a TORS eliminator kit and hope that fixes it

I tried messing with the knob/screw on the top of the TORS and that didnt help and I tried messing with the nut on the cable to adjust the slides... with both i turned them exactly the same but it didnt work... Im wondering if they got out of sync during dis-assembly and now the carbs need syncing. Another thing though when I push the throttle like barely touch it it sounds like its pushing a little switch or something as long as i hold the throttle enough to keep that switch or whatever pushed itll run/ idle but when i let go of the throttle completely it shuts off

So this is my first shee and im not use to working with the TORS system, I just got my shee running after taking it almost completely apart and I cant get it to idle without holding the throttle a little... I need help on how to adjust the idle with the TORS or could it be to high of oil content I mixed 32:1 which is alot of oil I know but i wanted to make sure everything is lubed properly on the first few start ups

Lookin good bro, I think your right about once people realize the worth. Im not new to 2-strokes but I am a newb with banshees, but I took mine apart to paint the chassis an kinda get to know it better and even though Ive done that I want a copy of the vid, and I think it would have definantly helped if I had something like this before I took mine apart lol

Maybe im wrong so correct me if im wrong guys, but i dont think he should have to run 340 mains, of course depending on his elevation, but that seems a little high