2001Stroker

I take it that your bike has a stock bore. I would prolly go with Keihin PWK 33's.

You could quite possibly have some trash in one of your carbs. This just happened to me yesterday. Take the carbs off the bike, and remove the bowls. I don't know what your level of mechanical abilities are, but don't let carbs intimidate you. Take both jets out and make sure you can see though them. If not, I use a torch tip cleaner to get the junk out. You might also go ahead and adjust the float height while you're in there. Clean the whole inside with some carb cleaner, and reassemble. Be super careful not to get any trash or grit in the carb. It should take you no more than about 30 minutes to have them off and back on. Try that, and see if it works.

Yea, what happened to your business? Did you get it going? You would definately have to have them covered with some kind of clear or colored coating. Helps keep the frays away. And, helps them stay looking shiny.

What kind of wet? Oil or water? And are you losing coolant in the radiator?

Strip the frame and powdercoat it man. Looks much better and lasts alot longer. And you can get powdercoat in any color, flat, semi-gloss, high gloss, noen, etc., and even with metal flakes. Before you get it done though, cut off any brackets that aren't needed anymore, and grind them smooth. More time and a little more money. But, you will be much happier with the end result.

The splines on either the axle shaft or the hubs are worn out. The teeth should not be sharp or pointed. If so, buy new.

You're lucky. I might get 1.5 hours on a tank if I'm babying it. This topic has been brought up in the past. From what I remember, most people that replied said the same thing. If I lay on the throttle, I'll get around 45 minutes-1 hour on a tank.

Boss.

Trust me, I love my ski, but I wouldn't trade my Banshee for one. Ski's are a dime a dozen. They get ragged out all summer long, and then they get sold. They depreciate too fast, to trade a Banshee for one.

Looks like it belongs on an old Honda 250SX 3-wheeler.

I have 18cc domes at sea level, with stock cylinder 421. My compression is 180psi. So, I run 110. You might be able to get away with mixing 50/50 93 and 110. I don't know what kind of different gasses you have around there, but here we have 100, 105, 108 oxidized, 110, and 113. All are off-road, leaded gasoline. You might consider trying to find some 100 or 105 around you somewhere. Call a local race track, or racecar shop.

You can either cut the springs a little shorter, or what I did was buy a Moose Racing thumb throttle. That took alot of pressure off my thumb. Don't get me wrong, it's still a little on the stiff side, but much better than the stock one. They're a little expensive, but I'm sure you know all about the world of Banshee's. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_cata...tId=&mmyId=

If you have any chrome or polished aluminum, a Mother's Powerball with Mother's Aluminum Polish and Mother's Chrome Polish. They're both in a red bottle, and are kind of a runny liquid. Buy the stuff that says that it isn't for use with the Powerball in the directions. I know, it sounds like I'm trying to set you up for failure, but it works wonders on my bike.

I absolutely love my iRazr's. Very aggressive tread. They self-clean great in the soft dirt or even mud. And they're 6-ply. They take a friggin beating on rocks. Strong, meaty sidewall. And man do they throw some roost. Yeah, they're a little bit heavier, but you can't beat the control and response you get with these tires. I've seen people on here say that they wear down fast. Well, I've had mine for about 6 months, and ride very aggressively and very often. The places that I ride range from pebble/dirt mix to packed sand. They still have about 90% tread. I still have my Holeshots in the garage. If I ever put them back on the bike, it's to melt them. They're junk compared to the iRazr.

i have a Moose Racing thumb throttle. it works great, and you can adjust it. it took alot of pressure off my thumb compared to the stock one.

Yea, they're not bright. Change the rear light to an LED, or even upgrade your stator. The brighter the lights, the better. I did a LED how-to a few months ago. Check it out, it only cost me like $20. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=led+conversion

Search Trailtech on here. There are a few topics on here about them. I have heard that they are way off on the speedo. If that's all you want it for, get a GPS with a handlebar mount. Those are accurate.

I've heard both good and bad things about them. But, I'm with jbooker. Get some ASV-C5's, and you will think you're pulling a hydraulic. I have ASV's on my bike, and I wouldn't trade them for anything. Great product, and they're guaranteed from breaking.

Mine does the same thing. If I run it real hard for a long time, it will smoke. Sometimes it does it from one pipe, and sometimes from both. I think it's just unburnt oil in the pipes getting so hot that it burns out of them. It ain't a big deal. It worried me the first time I seen it happen, but now it doesn't even phase me.

I've seen a few 4wd four wheelers with only hand brakes, that control the front and back. They came like that from the factory. I think Honda does it with the smaller utility quads. Might be able to use one of those. Don't know if it pushes enough fluid for the piston sizes of a Banshee's brakes though.

That's cool. I understand where you're coming from with the original owner of the bike thing. But, instead of taking a chance with the local guys, I would send the jugs to Kevin. He knows what he's doing, and has been doing Banshees for a long time. Why spend the money twice, or even more? Just my thought. If you are planning on boring/stroking the engine in a few months, your jugs will be trash anyways if you get a port done now. If you got the money, go ahead and bore it and stroke it first, then send the jugs and pistons out for porting. You're kind of doing it backwards, and you're going to spend alot more money in the long run like that.

I think 21cc would be about as small as you can go without switching to at least a 50/50 mix of race fuel. With higher compressions, it would definitely be a great idea to weld and true your crank. As far as buying a new clutch, it's always a good idea to upgrade everything, but unless you plan on racing it, I would keep the one you got until it takes a shit. But, if you got the money to blow, get it. It's really impossible to say how much horsepower you'll get with your mods and a mild port. One company could give you a mild port and ruin your engine, when another company could do the same port and really kick your bike in the ass. It all depends on if the machinist knows what they're doing. Are you going to go bigger on displacement? Bore or stroke? You're spending alot of money on an '87. You wouldn't at least want to upgrade to an A-Arm frame? I'm not trying to knock what you got, but you're planning on spending lots of money on upgrades, might as well start out with a better platform.

I just seen that you live in Australia. That sucks. Maybe you can find someone close to you that sells used ATV parts.

OUCH! That peice is cast. You could try to heat it and bend it back, but that would either make it really weak, or just break it trying to do it. I would buy a new one. I'm sure someine on here has one. I personally wouldn't trust bending it back, since it is cast.

I take it that you meant a 350 Raptor. You should be eating that thing up right now. Since you ride trails mostly, I would suggest these things: 1. 2into1 Carb setup. More simplicity than the dual carbs, plus it helps out for the lowend torque needed on the trails. You will lose some topend power. 2. DMC 916 exhaust. Same as the carbs, 2into1. Plus, it sounds really good. 3. CoolHead with about 21cc domes, and 93 pump gas. 4. Tires. I love my Maxxis iRazr, but everyone has their own preferences. Stay away from HoleShots for the trails. Get something more aggressive. 5. Better reeds. All you need are some Boyeson carbon fiber reeds, for the stock cages. Unless you have big plans for the future, you don't need VF3's.