Isaac_62

Got any 8" rear wheels??? Shoot me a pm??? Im in Michigan...

got any 8" rear wheels?

Got any rear 8" wheels???

I just checked and they dont offer anything exept the entire hub... No one knows where to get just the wheel studs??? Someone has had to of had this same problem... anyone else got anything???

Guys, I have one rear wheel stud stripped... I dont want to buy a new hub just want to replace the stud.. anyone know where to buy these at... Bike bandit doesnt have them... neither does RMATV... I dont want to go to the stealership... but i might have too... Maybe there is something else that will work.. like going to autozone and finding wheel studs for something else that have the same thread size???? all ideas are appreciated... Thanks

Guys, I have a set of rear stock rims for a shee that are the yellow yamaha color.... I would like to trade them for a set of 8 in. rims for my shee.... not looking for anything perfect but i need 8 inch rims.... Let me know what u have... I will post pics if people are interested... Thanks...

Still way too expensive.. look for one for about 1500 and dump the rest of that money u got into making it the bike U want... Just my .02

Most of your timing plates these days will come with small increments of one degree each. I would say with your setup to set it at +4. Hope this helps..

What CPI's are they??? U interested in trade for FMF fatty's and turbine core 2's??

Just fricken amazing... :yelrotflmao:

NN2 sent his jugs to be ported by passion... Guy took like a month to finally get to them... but when he got them back they looked amazing... looks like he does great work.. just takes him forever... just my 2centss

Sounds too me like the carbs are out of sinc... I had the same trouble with mine...

Contact NN2 he does cheap powdercoat. He did all my bike for a reasonable price and it looks awesome. I dont think he was very busy these days either...

Anyone else??? I just want a concesus of which one to buy... Thanks guys

Guys, Time has come for me to put pods on the shee.... i dont know whether to use the uni pods or the K&N air pods... Just lookin for some horror stories or good stories of each. All help is appreciated... Thanks guys

on the outsides (side that faces away from your motor when mounted) of your carbs the spot to file,drill ,and tap is between the overflow hole of your carb and the threaded hole for the bracket in which keeps your carb caps from spinning... be sure to remove enough material from the boss so you have alot of adjustment in your idle screw. The hole you are drilling is actually a casted hole already so you cant really screw this up... hope this helped...

WWWWWWWWWAAAAAAYYYYY too many people will be up there this weekend so you can cound me out...

Guys, I smoked my clutch this weekend. Time to put in a new one. Which brand is the best bang for your buck??? If you could give me some ideas of what youve usedand why you chose it.. I dont want to spend alot of money but if needed i will. Here is a list of my mods... I still have the stock basket and pressure plate. V force 3 reeds 4 mil stroker aggressive dune/trail port milled head (180 psi compression) fmf fatty's with turbine core 2's 14/42 gearing Stock mikuni carbs uni air filter with box. Thanks in advance for your help guys.

TTT

carbs are synced. I have stock carbs. and yes the crank seal is brand new. I am not seeing any overflow of tranny fluid nore am i seeing any in the cylinder. Could it be a carb issue? does switching the plug lines rule out the possiblity of an electrical problem? Im thinking its a carb issue. Im gonna switch the carb tonight and see if the problem follows it.

TTT

Guys im having trouble getting the right cylinder to fire at idle and when it does it doesnt fire correctly. I have cleaned the carb and it still idles the same. when i hit the throttle or ride it the cylinder comes alive. I have switched the spark plug wires and the bad idle doesnt follow the wire. i have pulled the plugs and looked at them at operating temperature and the left one looks great. the right one looks clean and only has a lil bit of fuel on it and is white, hardly any burn marks from ignition. i can hear the gas sizzling in the expansion chamber while it idles. i have gas comming out of the right siliencer when it idles and when it runs it burns the fuel and blows out the white smoke. I have done a leak test with carb cleaner and came up with no leaks. could it be electrical even though the problem doesnt follow the plug wire? I have also checked the compression and that is good as well. or could it be that one cylinder needs a much smaller pilot jet than the other side and im flooding it? Im going to ohm test the electrical stuff tonight to see if thats still good. My pickup gap on my flywheel is set at about .018" This motor is brand new. here are my mods 4 mil crank +4 timing (ricky stator timing plate) vforce reeds stock carbs wiseco pistons milled head FMF fatty's Turbine Core 2's pilot jets = 40 mains=310 elevation=794 ft Thanks guys

Spray your gasket down with some copper spray which they sell at an auto parts store. I used that on my head. Stuff works awesome. Might stop your leak also..

Hey guys, Well i just finished with a rebuild. Just started the bike up and it seems to idle really high. I have tors removed. i just got through syncing the carbs. I have v force 3 rreds and the stock carb setup. I dont think i have a leak of air somewhere but i cant figure out why im idling so high. The idle screws are all the way out,the choke tube is between the carbs and its still idling really high. could it be that my pilot jet being too big has something to do with it? could it be i have a leak around the crank seals which are brand new? could it be a base gasket leak? there is no play in my throttle after i synced the carbs, could it be the slides are not all the way down? what do you guys think? I just cant figure this out... All help is appreciated. Thanks,

Hey guys, Well i just finished with a rebuild. Just started the bike up and it seems to idle really high. I have tors removed. i just got through syncing the carbs. I have v force 3 rreds and the stock carb setup. I dont think i have a leak of air somewhere but i cant figure out why im idling so high. The idle screws are all the way out,the choke tube is between the carbs and its still idling really high. could it be that my pilot jet being too big has something to do with it? could it be i have a leak around the crank seals which are brand new? could it be a base gasket leak? there is no play in my throttle after i synced the carbs, could it be the slides are not all the way down? what do you guys think? I just cant figure this out... All help is appreciated. Thanks,