tnr

I have the old Toomey T-4's on my shee right now, but am looking to change to a Shearer or CPI. The only issue I am having is the fact that these pipes are too loud for the areas that I will be riding. My friend has CPI's on his cub and got stopped last weekend and was warned for being too loud and had to stop riding or face a fine. I heard of a couple other people getting stopped as well with Shearer's. The only option out of this is the Cascade silencers, at least that I know of. My silencers on the T-4s are quit a bit bigger than the T-5s, I would guess at approx. and inch or better in diameter. I was talking to a fellow banshee rider and he told me that the silencers I have will meet the Db requirements. He said that he got stopped when running CPI's with the T-4 silencers and ran 94 Db, which is legal. He also had to drill a few new holes to adapt properly, but is probably worth the $300 Cascade wants for their silencers. Anyone out there ever hear of this, or have any input?? I probably missed the most important fact, I will be riding at Sand Lake, Winchester, and Florence to name a few. Any help is always appreciated. Thanks again...

That was awesome. That little bike screams!!

Appreciate the info Wallace. Anyone else have any clue?? Thanks for the input..

I am taking it out this weekend, hopefully. I will take it WOT and hit the kill switch and do a plug chop. If the plug is dry, I will then know it is a little rich in the pilots. Getting these things dialed in kind of a process, but well worth it in the end I would imagine.. I will keep you posted..

Only at full throttle. When I was doing some of the tree shots, I never got out of 2nd, but was on the throttle pretty hard. It ran strong and kept the wheels turning. On the flats when I would get in 5th or 6th and run WOT it would hesitate. It almost felt like a governer on a car. It is definetly not going to ruin my day if I can only go 85 vs. 90 or whatever.

I was just cleaning my bike and I keep wondering why there is "Sparks" engraved in the head. I know it had been shaved, but all the research I have done show Sparks racing as Four poker gurus. Anyone here now if Curtis used to do work on banshees. I do know before I bought it it ran really strong with stock bore, pistons, shaved head, T-4's, and 30mm oko's. Just curious to see if anyone had any info. Thanks guys...

I forgot to tell you it only does it in the last two gears. You can really feel it in sixth. One thru four are no problems what so ever. Thanks for the help...

Well, I finally got to take the shee out for a real riding weekend. The weather at Sand Lake was great, and shee ran really strong. I have the 30mm oko carbs and the have a 155 main, 50 pilot, and the needle on the third clip. Just took a guess on that jetting from reading other posts and it got me real close. The only problem I am having is at WOT shee kinda dies out. Is this a little too rich condition and need to bring my main down a size or two. The plugs have a mocha color to them and are a little wet. When I say little, I mean very little. Thanks guys for the help.

My bike just did that and I couldn't understand what was going on. After doing some searching on this wonderful site, I thought "air leak". Took a propane torch and turned it on ever so slightly, started up the bike and let it idle. I ran the propane around the carbs and boots then the idle went up near the left boot. Took the boot off and it had a small tear in it. I would have never thought that such a small tear could do that, but it is running fine now. One of the many mysteries of the wonderful two stroke I guess..

I just got the Fly F-bend bars and they sit nice and tall. They feel great to me, but I am new to this whole thing as well. They are just like the Cascade V-bars, but only run $35. Pretty good deal and look good too..

I second the bad float design. Had mine wedge the floats stuck cause I didnt wiggle it the right way. Kind of a pain, other than that they work good...

Well, I finally got the stuff in and all seems well. Installed on bike and a big beautiful blue spark. I can finally ride for the first time. Just a little heads up on what I was able to pick this up for. I got the 100 watt stator, ignition coil with caps and wires, flywheel puller, and Xenon 45 watt bulbs for $157.00 shipped. Oh yeah, I also got the adjustable timing plate. I cant tell if the stator is RS, because shee had a stock one on her, but the timing plate is different. It has a different coating on it compared to the RS I have. For all I know it could be RS with a coat of paint. I personally had no problems with the guy, and got a pretty damn good deal IMO. Time to go get wet, got some ridin' to do!!

It seems that he has some pretty fair prices and a one year warranty. The stator that I got was the same price as RS, but he threw in a flywheel puller and some Xenon bulbs. Just a little extra incentive I guess.. I will keep you posted when product arrives.

I should have had the head measured to see how much was shaved when shee was all in pieces. By the compression being 175 lbs, could you have a rough idea how much it was shaved. I understand the smaller the dome the more compression, but I have no clue about the ratio. Ex. if you shave your head .030 you will gain 15 lbs of compression. And once again, there are no two bikes alike and every one of them responds differently to mods. I am trying to learn as much as I possibly can. Probably one of those annoying newbies, but keep in mind, I got kicked off the shortbus....

Thanks, I was in the middle of the last post and you obviously type faster than me.

Just looking for a rough idea. Very first bike and top end build. I know that no two bikes are the same and the portwork is a near impossible to tell. Just looking for 50-60, 60-70, of whatever the general area may be. I am sure that someone has had close to the same mods and put their bike on a dyno. I cant wait to get it started again so I can finally ride it. So now my free time consists of reading as much info as I can on this site.

Upgraded suspension, but didnt bother to take off the shock covers.... He sure did try really hard to get someone to believe that is the baddest banshee they have ever seen..

Just trying to figure out an approx. horsepower I will have. Any rough ideas will be appreciated. -Shaved head (b4 I got the bike it had no port work and stock pistons running 175lbs. compression, so I have to clue how much it has been shaved) -Wiseco pro lite pistons 64.75 (I believe that is .030 over Roughly 356cc) -Mild port (The guy that did it said the intake, exhaust, and transfers got opened up 15%) -Timing advanced 4 degrees -Boyesen pro series reeds on stock ported cages (dual stage) -30mm oko carbs with k&n pods -Toomey T-4's -Lightened flywheel -Boost bottle (I know that added 100 hp, haha, hand me down that looks better than the stock tube. Only thing it is good for is the bling factor) -Will be running 110 only Just curious what to expect when I finally get her running for the first time. Thanks

I just got off the phone with the guy and he assured me they were not RS. He said the RS was 85 watt and theirs are 100 watt. Sure hope this french canadian isnt feeding me a big pile. My friend just ordered a RS and I will be able to compare them and I will post the results...

I had to get a new spring for my idle screw. Took the spring I had, went to parkrose hardware and found a perfect match. The spring only cost me $0.79. That was a hell of alot better than the 5 something the bike shop wanted. Just make sure you get the same alloy as the slide spring, which I would imagine is stainless. Not sure...

If you have one spring, you can go to any hardware store and match it up. Definetly saves some $$ over yamaha. If you dont have one to match up try www.sudco.com. Hopefully that will help.

That was kinda what I was thinking. Like I said earlier, it looked like someon tried to pry the flywheel off with a screwdriver. Two of the coils were all bent and the coating was chipped. I took the stator off and saw a couple of spots where the wire on the coils was broke , but still touching. The green wire, just about an inch above where it is soldered on to the coil looked burnt. My guess is somewhere in the act of prying, they grounded out the stator and screwed up the coils. All this for a $15 puller. Oh well, definetly the previous owners loss and my gain.

I have a good meter, I work in the HVAC trade and do alot of trouble shooting on furnaces and a/c's, so I found out quick that you need a good meter. The first cheappy meter I had cost me a few hours labor and some unneccesary parts. Took the part to an electric store and they tested it and was bad, my meter said it meet the proper requirements. On my way to the supply house that meter ended up in a bunch of little pieces. Thanks for your input guys, i appreciate it. This is my first shee and first build, I have only had the bike for about a month and wondering why I didnt get one sooner. dajoger, thanks for the referring NYUK, I will get in touch with him.

I checked all the resistance in the caps, wires, coil. When I did the stator test the green to red had a very low reading. Took off the flywheel and tested green to ground and read 67 or so and then checked the red to ground and it read .2. The stator was banged up when I got the bike. It looked like someone tried to pull the flywheel off by prying the stator. Thanks for advice, I really didnt feel like dumping a $125 on a new stator. Anyone selling a good used startor, or do I have to go to e-gay.

I am just about done with my top end break in period and when I pulled the left plug it was wet. Right side looked fine, so I started checking resistance (thank you clymers), and found that my stator is going bad. Should I go with the 200 watt or just stay with the OEM wattage. Not sure which way to go. If anyone has any good deal on stators that would be greatly appreciated.