Wildcardracing

No problem man, that's what the HQ's all about :thumbsup:

It should measure somewhere between 56 and 57mm from the deck to the floor of the exhaust port and also the floors of the transfers if it has been ported for the stroke.

OK OK, it's acctually 54.9mm...measured a set of virgin stockers to get that # the floor of the ports sits slightly below the crown of the piston and on a 4mil stock cylinder bike (with an MX port) I would say the plate is a pretty good indication they are not ported for the stroke. Raise the cylinder 2mm and you would have to drop the floors 4mm to compensate for the stroke, that would put you at way more duration than an MX port. I said pretty good not dead giveaway. I personally don't know why you would want to run the spacer and port the floors that much lower,one more place for an air leak IMO. Maybe you could explain. :shrug:

the floors of the transfers should also be 2mm lower. For a 4 mil mx port the roof of the exshaust should not be raised much. If the exhaust has been raised 2mm on a 4mil port it would be more of a dune type port.

I've never seen a set of ported carbs...lol, bored larger maybe??

The spacer is a pretty good giveaway that they are not ported for the 4 mil. Take a measurement from the deck to the floor of the exhaust port, stock is @55mm 4mil should be @57mm.

Stroker motors make more power everywhere, because you get the top end advantage of running more port duration, but they also have more bottom end because the powerstroke is longer since the roof of the ports aren't cut as much to achieve the desired duration. I would build an aggressive dune ported 4 or 7mil with ported cases,+4 timing, 32-34mm mikunis, coolhead with pumpgas freindly domes (no need to break the bank for a riding trip),VF3's,CPI's, Pod Filters, billet impellor, modded shift star and lightened flywheel (depending on rider weight). Throw on a +4 roundhouse swinger and some 22x11x8 8pdl or 9pdl haulers and mohawks up front. Then spend the rest on lightweight goodies and suspension.

What??? Regardless, if you make the front larger or rear smaller it stresses the engine the same...a higher gear ratio is a higher gear ratio no matter how you achieve it.

89??? First, I would run no less than 91 in my bike. Second, what have you done modification wise to need race fuel...timing...compression?? Fact is that race fuel will actually hurt your performance if your bike doesn't require it. All high octane does is makes your fuel burn slower and ignite at higher pressures and temps, therefore it is less volatile...Pump gas can have some very impressive results when set up correctly. I personally don't see bumping your compression and timing to the point you need race fuel unless you strictly ride tight trails and need all the bottom end you can get. I like my $$ too much to waste it on 110

Depends on elevation and temp.

There are several reputable builders on here who are in the $300-$400 range, PM KEVSWS6 on here...Kevin is in Cali, but does good work for a reasonable price and shipping isn't much.

I'm pretty damn sure advanced timing does not raise compression As far as your porting goes the only way to determine the type of port and what mods will suit it best is to measure the port timing with a degree wheel (you can also measure the distance from the top of the exhaust port and transfer ports to the deck). Also, like said above the best way to set up a 4mil is to port for the stroke... if your cylinders have already been ported then there is a possibility that they wont be able to be cut for a longer stroke because the port duration may be too much when the material is removed from the port floors. Again, you need to measure them to be sure.

I use a ratio-rite to measure mine, 40:1 is what I run also. You could increase your oil to 32:1 and it might run a little cooler, but remember that if you increase the oil in your mixture it will lean out your air fuel ratio so you will have to rejet.

I think Bansh-eman probably meant one ring per groove? :shrug: All of the larger 2 strokes I have ever built all have only two rings, my banshee pro-lites have two rings... Not sure about that third one either???

I've never heard that. Bansh-eman, you'e right... nikasil is simply a coating similar to chrome. It is used in almost all of the newer engines because it disipates the heat better to have a plated cylinder then a cast iron one and it is also lighter. Nikasil also has its downsides, cost about $250 per cylinder to be replated... whereas a cast iron sleeve can be bored for about $40

Nikasil cylinders don't usually have a cast iron sleeve and usually only have one piston size available.

Only bore it as much as is needed to clean up the sleeves... one size at a time, you only get so many rebuilds out of a set of cylinders.

I think they only offer the Sand Haulers in an 8" rim, I've looked at them in person and think they would be a pretty good tire. Not quite as light as a hauler, but a real good budget performer.

Jeff, souds like you allready answered your own ?. Probably is your clutch bushings, they will cause your gears to mesh wrong and make noise. I would however recommend splitting the cases and checking all of your transmission gears and bearings, also replace all of your seals while it's apart.

Also, I forgot to mention in my first post that your 13t sprocket should do just fine for your first trip to the dunes. Thats about the same setup as I run on my wifes banshee and it does really well.

I would deffinately recommend the stroker setup if its done right (ported for the stroke and cut domes) The big bore sleeves for stock cylinders decrease your transfer area too much IMO. I think you would be real pleased with a 4 or 7 mil ported stroker motor. :thumbsup:

Just sold a set of domes to xsinnerx, wouldn't hessitate to do bussiness with him again. He kept in touch with me about the status of his payment and was good on his word. Thanks xsinnerx.

For all around duning with the occasional drag race I would just go with some 20" or 21" eight blade haulers for a 9 or 10 inch wheel, I think those would suit your mods well. Taller tire with a smaller wheel would be more for drag racing ie: 22x11x8, a shorter tire with more wheel would be for better all around handling ie: 20x10x10. If you think you'll be duning a lot I would recommend the scats, if you only plan on going once in a while I would go with sand snakes. But, for the extra few $$ definately go with an aluminum wheel. I bought the dune runners on steel wheels and hated them...too much bog because of the weight, I now run Scat's on douglas blue label and love them. If you plan on a lot of jumps I would recommend the 160 or 190 wheels.

I couln't believe how nice the weather turned out!! I did get a few pics, not very good ones though. I'll have to try to post some of them. I can't wait to see how my portwork performs with some better carbs, I'm still running stockers... almost affraid to change anything it runs so good.

Guess before I brag too much I should say that the rider on the 7mil outweighed me 100lbs. But, nonetheless I was impressed as hell with my bike.