rtcc

Those are what I have. I am very happy with them for the price. I wish I had some other adjustments but those jump the price up considerably. You can add reservoirs later too. I trail ride and had them setup for that. Ive done some pretty big jumps with them as well and they held up fine.

What year are your pipes? My are the older edition and they have no place for an oring to sit in the flange. I use the orange RTV that is made for high high heat and put a bead in the flange before installing. Its the RTV with copper in it. It does a pretty good job.

Damn this thing is really hit or miss. I have always run BR8ES plugs so that's not a big deal to me. Does anyone have one that they want to get rid of?

Thanks for that. I will think about it more I guess. It still just seems so big and "computery." If it was smaller I would love all that. and Im not putting a meat thermometer on my bike. I was thinking of building my own version of the crj but I would have to fab up some sort of clamp for it.

I think they added that to there site because so many people are having trouble with them so they would rather just not sell them to banshee owners. Which also makes me think they have given up on the banshee. Do you have any pictures of how you installed yours? I would like everyone to compare and maybe we could figure out what needs to be done. Those are nice but I think they are way too bulky and I dont want to clutter up my bars anymore. I dont really want the CRJ on there but I can live with it. I have rox risers and mx bars so I dont think the camp holder would work for me. I was reading also that people were having the same type of problems with the trail tech but it just needed the resister plugs and to wire it the right way and it was fine. I think thats the same with the crj.

Im assuming you are talking about stock carbs right? I had so many problems with them sticking even when slightly damp. Sometimes when I would take the bike out of my basement garage into 80+ degree heat the condensation would make them stick for a few minutes. It sucked. They are just a really shitty design. I switched to pwk's and never had a problem since. Also, there is screens in the fuel petcock that can get clogged. If more fuel is moving with the reserve them Im sure your normal valve screen is just clogged up. You can take it out and clean it pretty easy.

yeah man, I hope it turns around in a hurry!

Hey guys, I was going to make a poll but that seemed unnecessary. Anyway, I really want to know how many people have this gauge and have made it work and how many have it and cant get it to work. This is the way I want to go with my bike but the problems seem hit or miss in the few threads that are on here. I know there is others on the market but I dont want the big bulky gauges that are on the hose because it will be a pain in the ass with my paul turners to see it or possibly even fit it in there. ok so please let me know either way if you have one! thanks

I have pretty similar mods to you. I am still getting mine dialed in perfectly but starting at 152-155 it will be rich but should get you close depending on temperature. I am running 150 and it seems just about right for around 70 degrees. My pilots are 38's right now, but my bike as always wanted very little fuel on the bottom end. Not sure why. and my needle is unmarked and it came with my carbs so I have no idea what kind it is. oh and I am at 1000' elevation

I dont know anything about painting pipes, but I sent my hi revs to Nitrotate on here and he media blasted them and High temp powder coated them for cheap. You should pm him and see what he can do for you, its not as bad as you think it is.

Is there any benefit to running yfz450 spindles with my +2 banshee a-arms and elkas? They are all banshee length. Is the shock the only thing that makes you need the 450 spindles?

ok, yeah I think that's my problem then. I'm gonna dig up my old ones and compare them. I have had a terrible time getting my low end to run crisp. It always seems like it is running rich even though I have leaned it out as much as I can. Do you think this could be one of the reasons?

Is there a certain spot on the gasket I need to measure? There is enough overhang on them installed that I can get my caliper on them and they seem to be around .47 or so. Does that seem right? I bought my gaskets with my piston kit from rjatv last year. His site doesnt say what size gaskets come standard with the kit. Where is a place the has different size gaskets in stock?

ok well first how can I bring it down? I have no idea what gaskets I have or what I need to order.

After several tries I have determined my squish is right at .062" and I am wondering if I have too much or if this is causing any kind of lose in power or anything. When I redid my top end the base gaskets were pretty thick. Im running a Noss head as well with 20cc domes. thanks

you are just talking about using it for the fronts right? I havent changed my fronts yet but I didnt think you actually needed to break the bead on them.

wow thanks man, I will look into all of this. I might be able to move it over some and not have to lengthen the wires but I wont have time to crack into it for a few days. Ill keep you posted

I thought I read on here long ago about someone pulling off the stock wires and replacing them with some MSD or something. I know it was an automotive wire. I wasnt sure if the 8.5mm was the same or not. thanks

Because the coil is resting on my paul turner pipes and when my engine gets hot the coil starts to fail. I want to move it. I just need to know what size wire to buy. Thanks.

Does anyone know what size the stock coil wires are? I can just cut a normal auto wire to size right? I want to lengthen them so I can relocate the coil away from my pipes.

yeah most intakes look like that. Or at least the are silver with a small amount of black in them. If it looks like a buildup just try and scape it out before you put it back together.

you dropped your cigarettes... nice shee though!

Right, Im not exactly looking for a needle that will give me more power. I just want to make sure I am running a needle that gives me the best throttle curve for my riding style. And since I have no idea what needles I have, I dont even know where to begin looking. Im also wondering if the needle has anything to do with my fouling problems on the bottom end.

I need to put my mods in my signature. anyway they arent much, I have no port work as of yet. >Paul Turner High revs/ FMF powercore silencers >noss head 20cc domes >RM stator w/+4 timing >Kehien PWK 28mm carbs >Ported stock reed cages w/TDR reeds I would love to measure my needles but what tools would I need for that?

While I am thinking about these carbs I am trying to find the best needle for my riding style. I know longer slow taper needles give you more of a smooth power transition throughout the throttle range. I like to have lots of bottom and mid range power. I feel pretty good now but I could be missing a lot with the needles I have now. They came with the carbs and have no markings at all on them. What are needles do you guys recommend? Im pretty new to Keihin carbs. thanks