WINDYCITYJOHN400

How southern? Google Illinois Powersports. Check the home page banshee videos. They have a dyno and can actually tune. (Unlike most dealerships)

Why would you want to? Not running the silencers won't burn up the motor...but not re-jetting for the change might.

You in too big a rush to even listen to suggestions..... You admit you have a lot to learn....but at your pace all your going to learn is how to piss away cash quickly on stuff that will only depreciate. Plenty of members here could be and would be mentors for you in this hobby.....really help you make good choices with your cash for the long haul. But my 43 years have tought me it's easy to talk to a young guy with his mind made up.....it's just nearly impossible for him to hear me...... Good luck in a year or two when you find yourself doing CPR on your wallet. Either way, Thank You for choosing to serve.

UPP = no seams since they are solid. Billet intakes = one seam per intake (2 total) So the math is not 0×2=0.......it's 2 > 0. Thanks for playing rappy.....now go adjust your valves.

Please feel free to hold off on that indefinitely. I really don't want to hear you describe what kind of oils and solids you spend your days cleaning off of your balls. Don't want to hear about finger placement, the fun you have playing on oily lanes, hard wood, or how hard your balls get from all the oil either. Now before we overwhelm ourselves with bowling metaphors........I'm going to just split.

You managed to reference "The bowling industry" without ever mentioning Balls. Well played.

Get the 4 mill bottom end, then put Vito's Super Stock pistons in it. (They simulate porting and will boost you 7 more HP.) We have done this combo a lot! Then later when your ready for porting, you can get that done and go with standard Wiseco pistons. At least moving forward you will always have a good bottom end. Sure would hate to see you get porting, then have it all trashed when your old crank bearings grenade from all the added power and RPM......

UPP intakes are made of high grade polyurethane, not rubber. They are NOT more prone to cracking. (I don't have an Opinion on the matter....I'm just stating facts.) The "Genuine Mikuni" boots however ARE made of rubber and are prone to dry rot and cracking. Billet intakes have a seam where the rubber meets the aluminum. This is double the number of seams you get with the UPP intakes. Since the UPP's are one piece and have no seams.) So expect to eventually see cracks form either at the junction on the intake or at the carb connection. But billet has bling tho...... I run UPP's and I agree.....To each there own.

#1 - The coolant overflow reservoir doesn't do shit. That's one of the first things to hit the trash along with the TORS and the parking brake. Just run the overflow down the frame. (When your having water issues....run it so it will vent right out the top of the grill so you will see it happen.) #2 - Be sure both cylinders are flush with each other before the head goes on. #3 - Some cool head styles can leak around a head stud. #4 - Is there any chance that your DIY porting grazed a water jacket and it only acts up when hot? Lastly - I just had a small leak that ended up being a bad hose from the pump to the head. The hose was leaking in it's core and fluid would travel to a hose end thru the body of the hose and spray out in a fine mist hitting cylinder and pipe. I chased it thinking it was bad O-rings to the point I even got a different head! Try getting bike good and hot. Then put 20 PSI of pressure into overflow hose while reving the motor up. Then watch everything. Your bound to see a drip sooner or later. If not.....your burning it and it's going out the pipes. That you should smell.

Use the UPP intakes.

Too bad. They really come alive when set up correctly..... Call Cameron at Redline Racing and let him chat with you about it.

^^^ VERY sound statement ^^^

Talk to his buddy Dan. (Guy he rides with. Not Dan Hall) Why are you waiting on carbs from Hall? You can buy carbs anywhere. They aren't going to come set up perfect just cause you get them from him. .......unless he dyno tunes the bike too.

Talk to Dan. You two should plan a dyno road trip. Then come ride the dunes with us.

Not a damn thing. Why? Do you want to hear more about his bike?

What does your new hill climber tip the scales at now?

Well Tyler, you have often frowned on info I have posted related to my dyno testing. Obviously Cam uses a dyno to find more power. 12HP is nothing to sneeze at. That info was found in dyno testing and trial and error on his end. My motor just got "Re-Ported" by Cam because he found 10 more HP with a port style he tried. He found that power with his dyno. Your not going to find power quickly if you have to wait till the next race to test the results of changes. This is why the industry has crawled through the years in the advancement of power. Now that more builders are equipped with dynos, we are seeing advancements like never before. Also we are seeing people have a better understanding that a peak number is worthless if the overall curve is junk. As for jetting.....being 1-2 jet sizes fat is safe and will certainly provide longevity. (Most builders will set everyone up jetted a little fat so you don't burn down and end up pissed.) But if you are an experienced motor tuner and willing to do the work, we find on average bikes can gain peak 7+ HP and a WAY better curve from what the owners thought was well tuned mint jetting. (Now if that guy goes and rides his machine in 30 degree weather, he's going to have an issue unless he jets accordingly.) LOL NICKISGOD drove out from Buffalo NY for a dune trip and stopped by to hit the dyno first. He thought the bike was running pretty strong. (485 cheetah on gas) His first runs were 74 hp. With timing and jetting changes he left making 95! I say this with great care........I have an EXTREMELY well tuned 370 long rod motor in my wife's bike. On the dyno it makes 63HP. Out in the real world it has beat more than a few 421 cubs. (Dune bikes...not full draggers) That can either be attributed to the other guy being tuned poorly, his suspension being off, him not riding for shit......or maybe I excel at more of those factors than he does. But when I go out to ride......Dyno testing has shown me that (For what that motor is) I'm getting 97% of it's potential without going to the level of pulling the pin and waiting for the boom. So if I'm looking to pick up a bike length....I know it's time to check the stuff you're use to trying, because I'm not going to find it in the motor. That's why I focus on dyno tune first. If Nick picked his swing arm, tire and gearing based off his seat of the pants riding.......than suddenly adding 20 more HP throws all that out the window. So I get the motor running perfect first......THEN work on the other stuff. That's why I value the dyno testing. I have spent FAR TOO MANY DUNE TRIPS chasing jetting! I'm more like you now.....I want to ride, not wrench. Out in the sand it's 1 or 2 changes to dial the bike in....then let's go burn thru as much fuel in a day as I can.... till blistered hands, sore knees or darkness dictate the start of campfire time. Hearing more info about what others do regarding dialing in the other aspects of a bike should be very popular. The suspension section get's FAR too little traffic. I'm also enjoying STY's clutch post. Tyler, you should offer up more input than just "Run this tire." You have a custom hybrid chassis and have won at your sport. You have some knowledge to share. It might be specific to hill climbing.....but it might also cross over to other stuff.

Not to pile on.....But I have known this was your way of testing. It works for you and many others. However (speaking as one who has a motor from the same builder) Just because he built it, doesn't mean the timing and jetting are perfect once in your hands and at the events you participate in. (As you have admitted you don't know about the details of your motor....so you might know just what it needs as far as heat in the pipe prior to a run and a few other parameters.) You have won with many different motors and pipes. This alone is an indicator that your strength in your chosen sport lies either in your ability to dial in your suspension, or your willingness to Whisky Throttle harder than others. You have no way of knowing if your motor is down 10HP from what it's capable of. Obviously your motors have made enough power over the years, so finding that last 10% might not matter for your application. But just because you haven't seen the strengths of one form of testing, doesn't mean it has no value. Hopefully you will be more open to information from others when provided in the future.

Someone has obviously hacked the main server.

I agree completely! There are FAR more people in need of basic info than the more advanced stuff. Here is another example of someone who is frustrated from dealing with the drama that comes with sharing info. People post info and next thing you know you have guys saying "I've been doing this 20 years and never needed to do all that....I do it my way FTW....Timeslips or STFU.....etc." He can explain in detail the cause and effects of the topic he's covering and can explain in detail the steps he has tried and is sharing the hows and whys of his opinion. (This somehow bothers some who slap all the best parts together and assume they have a top tuned item.) There is ALWAYS room to learn more and get more from our machines. You don't have to jump straight to Cryo treating your entire tranny and doing everything Slow is talking about. But having a working understanding of the topic allows others to try his ideas in baby steps as the situation allows. We could stand to have a few less posts about Boost Bottle Bashing and allow more veterans to share some higher level info without the peanut gallery getting into full contact verbal elbow throwing mode. Not singling anyone out......... Just saying......

It's the only open sharing of helpful info I've seen on this site in years. All of it's good and your passing on info without trying to look like a know-it-all. PS was that way before it became a pay only site. After that it became a chat room for racers where nobody asked any questions and nobody posted info for others to learn from. Glad to see at least one person able to post info without getting blasted for having an opinion.

^^^^ You should stick to your little tweets of hatred. Your providing info that might just bite you later...... ^^^^ NOTE: He came up with this on his own. No nut swinging from me. Just another guy who's calling as he sees it. (Slap the bitch together and go ride up a hill) LMFAO Fixed this one for you.^^^^ This one is priceless. Proof once again that you know what you know.....but couldn't explain why. (Just go buy another win bro) SlowerThanYou - Is busy posting quality helpful info in another post about clutch tuning. Yet you couldn't hold you own in a tuning conversation even if you stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night. LOL Just poking fun.........

Move it to the cardboard box with all the other junk stock parts.

As you can see early on here (In your defense) I said basically what you just did. (Your the one who fanned the flames by telling people to fuck off.) You also just said "...your bike sat most of the time" So since I burnt 13 gallons of fuel that weekend.......I would not qualify as someone who's "Trying to be a poser." My bike did not "Sit most of the time" for any reason.