WINDYCITYJOHN400

FFS Well I live close to a midsize regional airport. I drive past it every day. Sometimes I drive past on the North side... Sometimes I drive past on the South side... Sometimes the West side…. Sometimes I even drive past the West side before driving along the North side…. I even have planes flying over my house from time to time. So I'm "Around this shit constantly" too... Burns dirty? Are you tearing down motors and inspecting them? I'm guessing your looking at the surface of the plane. How clean would your Banshee look running the fuel YOU like if the tailpipes exited in front and you drove thru it?

A sniper who can't deliver the bullet at the right time and needs the entire brigade sent out to pound the brush to flush him out just to get a mission status update on why he missed his target is NOT a quality assassin. Passion ass-ass-in Hey Jim, Tyler sent you a link to this post. The clock is ticking on how responsive you can be…. Sad part is your customer tried phone, text and email and it didn't work for him….

That didn't show up too well. How bout this?…... The problem with the internet is anyone can say anything. If something is passed along and posted enough, everyone starts to believe it. For example, these things have been said about 100LL multiple times. It is only for low-rpm engines with low compression and at high altitude. It has additives for high altitude and burns slower thus killing throttle response. All of these things are simply untrue! AvGas was designed for high-compression, high-performance, high boost turbocharged fighter aircraft like those used in WWII. It's only additives are lead and benzene. Both are the best octane boosters in existence. The avgas octane rating is determined by the MON test, so 100 octane avgas (100LL) would actually be about 106 octane if it were sold at the pump where the average of the MON and RON test were used. (R+M/2) is printed right on the gas pumps if you look. The MON test is a much better test and uses higher RPM's and higher temperatures to determine octane. All this can be proven if you research enough, just don't trust the race fuel retailers. They are salesmen!!! There is a reason no-one comes on here and complains about problems with 100LL. Lots of people come on here complaining about pump gas. There is a reason for that.

Here you go chief. How long did that take me? Traditional avgas is composed of what refiners call aviation alkylate, a blend of branched-chain hydrocarbons such as isomers of isooctane which, of themselves, have high octane and good anti-knock characteristics. Refiners add a small dose of tetraethyl lead to boost octane to a bit over 100 to meet the requirements of ASTM fuel spec D-910. Tetraethyl was banned from automotive fuels during the 1980s and there’s pressure to remove it from aviation fuels to achieve new, more stringent air quality standards. Shea explained that Shell is using an aviation alkylate base with a blend of aromatic compounds to deliver a fuel with performance characteristics almost identical to 100LL.

I already did that years ago. Why should I click and paste just to educate you? Your bike doesn't even make enough power to need good fuel, so what good would the info do you? Did you know you can jump for 110VP to 100LL without even re-jetting? Did you know I back up my knowledge by actually dyno testing? A Jaws bumper and a CFM airbox….FFS That airbox is stealing all the gains from your +4 timing. (I know, I've dyno tested it!)

OH SHIT! That's funny! Not a bad idea either. I think you're on to something there…….maybe we should just get one of the guys from the tanned and jacked thread to come out. Should be somebody who's OK with swallowing small amounts of protein over and over again all day long. ​

Obviously ^^^^^ But don't let that stop you from having an opinion based on nothing. Well your offering up an opinion with only limited knowledge on the subject. (Some call that talking out your ass) And now your being argumentative in defense of your ego…. Thanks for playing…..now let's get some facts straight. They don't mod fuel for use in planes….they highly regulate fuel for use in cars! The main problems with comparing AV gas and pump fuel is that they are regulated and rated differently. 100LL AV fuel is "Low Lead" as far as planes go….but high lead as far as race fuel. Pump gas use to have lead in it to get the octane back in the day. (We called it "regular" and the other stuff was called "unleaded") ALL the good HIGH TEST fuels sold back in the 60's used lead like our race gas does now. As a matter of fact….before catalytic converters ALL the cars ran on leaded fuel! IT DOES NOT BURN DIRTY in your motor. It coats your parts with a fine layer of lead and is an excellent lubricant and well as one of the best ways to gain octane for fighting detonation. A plane only needs to make big power at one point in flight…….TAKEOFF! That's mostly at ground level. Once up high the planes motor is pulled down to a simple steady lower rpm for the remainder of the flight. AV gas is pretty much the same as the old school race gas. Luckily planes don't make up the high majority of fuel use, so the EPA isn't all up in their business forcing them to eliminate the lead. For the record - If you rated AV gas the same as race fuel, the 100LL AV gas would have a motor rating of 108 octane. So I'll say that again for the folks who don't like to read as much…. 100LL AV GAS = 108 RACE GAS

Trinity build 215 PSI ……maybe you should just switch to diesel. LMAO

LOL Now I think you're having trouble keeping track of who you're bitchin at. LMAO

Straighten it in a press if it's just barely bent.

LOUD NOISES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sell off some more parts and go get a ticket. LOL

He IS trying something. He turned to the collective strength of this site. The BEST way to go about it is to blast the site with the facts. Jim is SUPPOSED to be a site sponsor. He should be checking in here and participating on some level. What else can he do if voicemails, emails and texts aren't getting results? The people who are satisfied customers should be efforting to let Jim know he's dropping the ball bad enough lately to damage his reputation. Unfortunately, he's pissed off even his most loyal customers over the last few months, so the shotgun approach of 3 threads and 10 posts have fallen on deaf ears. YOUR job, MY job, OUR job is to hold Passion accountable for treating OUR fellow site members like this. This guy is a sponsor. He represents this site. If that kind of behavior is acceptable to the members…..fine. But if he can't meet the same level of professionalism that our other builders meet……Our job is to side with the member till the wrong has been righted. (As well as highlight the builders we know do it well) Too idealistic?……Well, I'd hate to have my stuff in limbo and have people laugh it off. This was a simple port job. REDLINE could have ported, built and dyno tuned a motor and had it shipped back to him just in the amount of time that has past since his last contact with Jim.

So apparently the OP has started a bunch of posts trying to find anyone on this site who can contact Passion Racing for him and the answer is NO……. So instead of being frustrated with the OP for starting a couple posts on the same topic…..let's all note the trouble he's dealing with, the efforts he's made and just add him to the collection for people that are voicing the same issues. Hopefully he can just get his cylinders back so they can be sent to someone who's not AWOL. Once he has his cylinders again he can worry about the next candidate.

I did this mod with a single piece of Lexan. Best part is you can check your clutch fluid level and condition of the fluid by just looking at your side cover. I haven't used the dipstick in years. LOL Looks like a factory style lock-up cover. The local glass shop copied the OD and bolt hole location of the stock insert and made me a 1/2 dozen for like $15 each. A little black silicon gasket maker and your set. I cut out almost the whole backing. I've only got a 3/8 lip left all the way around. seals great. I had to pop it out to do a quick adjustment on a ride and it sealed back up without any extra effort. Still holding now. Not as easy as an O-ring…but I won't have trouble finding an O-ring after they discontinue the model.

Jay at Illinos Powersports is my best friend. I'm so involved with his company that I'm almost staff. So he's got 4 tickets and we're taking the wives. We had a blast last year. We stay at a residents inn not to far from the stadium. We go to a vendors display and dinner in the upper concourse Friday night and meet all the sponsor reps, get the full lowdown on all the latest products and things coming out soon. Then we get a free meal at the Parts Unlimited tent on Saturday between sessions. They cater some killer food. Last year we got to meet Villopoto and got his autograph (well...my wife did) met marvin musquin, Dean wilson and a bunch of other riders.

I think TTO has one that mounts to the bars. I made a flat metal bracket that mounts with the steering stem bolts. They just Velcro on. They hold up to all the abuses. Mine is a KOSO and is big and easy to read.

Sorry.......LOCAL spelling bee fans.

Me! Going with full vendor VIP credentials thru Parts Unlimited Friday and Saturday. You going Saturday? Where ya sitting?

Yeah, unless your going to do some major mods right away. ...the Shearers will be overkill on a stock bike. You're going to lose alot of bottom end and rideability. I'd go with a set of FMF'S, T-5's, Pro Circuits. .....

Buy two containers of engine ice. (You run it straight and can't add water. So two fills you from empty and leaves you with some for topping off.) Fill system till it hits the very top of the radiator core....them push any air out of system by squeezing the radiator hoses and pumping them like a heartbeat. Then top off radiator to about a 1/2" from the cap. Expect a little overflow after your first hard ride. I'd also HIGHLY RECOMMEND you take the opportunity to install a water temp gauge at this time. TTO and KOSO both make a nice unit that runs for over a year on a simple watch battery. The sensor mounts in the radiator hose comming off the head and sends accurate readings of how hot things are right to a handlebar mounted display.

Bump for MarineNYC