Can someone post some pictures of these pipes from a top view. I know they stick out and would just like to see it. Side and front views also welcome. Thanks
I have a set of skat trak 20x10x10 10 paddle haulers. They have worked very well on my dune ported 350 with 33mm pwks and t-5's. I have been using them on my serval and would continue to us them if 4 of the paddles on one side were not ripped. (Very hard to drag race. (I cut at least 4 people off before the front tires touch the ground to correct myself )
Since I need new paddles I would like to get paddles more for drag racing. Not real serious. I still do like to dune. Probably 50/50. I was thinking about getting a set of 21x12x8 10 paddle haulers. The drags are on very wet sand so I don't think I need more paddle than that (but open to recommendations). What is everyone is everyone else running? I have been doing quite a bit of searching and that is what I came up with. I also don't think I want to go to a 22" tire. But not positive on that.
After replacing all of the welded parts. I did get the pancake bearing. I have never heard of anyone having any problems once getting the pancake bearing.
I am not in th 100 hp range, more the 75 hp but the best chain I have ever used is a D.I.D. They seem to last the longest and stetch the least. I also like the x-ring. I personally dont like the non o ring. I always forget to oil and they start to role hard. The x-ring needs virtually no maintenance.
I would like to add that I perfer to use klotz. It has worked the best for me. That is what I was using when it welded but it was my fault. I had just taken it apart and did not squirt any oil in there along with I think I had a low oil level.
I have tried atf type F and had very bad clutch slip issues. BUT I don't know if it was the atf or bad pressure plates. When I replaced the plates and clutch I went back to the klotz and it was better. So I don't know which one was the issue. I don't mind paying the little bit extra. To me seems way to thin for the gear oil but there are a lot of guys that use it and sware by it. I just won't use it. I would rather use a wet clutch 10w30 engine oil like the manual says or 10w40 (sometimes it is all I can find).
Yeah mine was welded to the clutch arm. They were all stuck together. Clutch arm, pushrod, ball, and the part that mounts to the pressure plate. When it happened my engine shut down. It pretty much sucks.
I actually got the lockup from vitos. It is a driveline. I did not want to buy a new cover. Is this the same as a slingshot just a different brand? Any way how many balls is everyone running. The instructions recomend 2 balls per short slot. None in the long ones for a total of 36 balls. Does this sound like a good starting point? I can go all the way up to 60 but that is recomended for a 10 mill and all the way down to 2.
I was at the dunes and replaced the clutch. I put it all back together and went out and started to ride. I stopped at the top of the first hill and saw coolant coming out of the overflow. I looked at my temp gage and it said 220F. (Never seen it above 180F) I was in such a hurry to get back out and ride I did not put coolant back in. Luckily I did not ride long and there was not any damage.
Both plugs spark at the same time. They use the same coil. If one sparks and the othere does not you can rule out the coil and the cdi. Could be the boot or the wire.
I got mine from the swingarm shop on ebay. They are a bit heavier but they are half the price of everyone else. I do suggest the round style and get a new carrier. The +4 is $260 I think and I picked up a round carrier for around $100. If you decide to stay with the stock style carrier let me know if you need a new one. You can have mine just pay the shipping.
I probably only rode a couple hours on the new clutch with proabably an hour or so of drag racing.
The setup is nothing crazy. T-5 pipes, 33mm pwks, 22cc domes 160psi, +2 on the timing