robert.b.west

$225 shipped on the cylinders?

Go to the banshee repairs and mods section. It is the first thread. It is a sticky so it does not ever move.

Backfiring tells me that you have a very lean condition. If it is only happening on one side probably means that you have an air leak. Meaning your carb boots are not tight or a gasket is bad or reed bolts are not tight or something like that. When does it backfire? please be more specific. I would personally do a leak down test just to be safe. There is a thread that shows how to do this. It is very easy. Just because your plugs are black does not tell you anything. You dont know if it is rich on only the pilot circuit causing the plugs to be black when you could have a lean main. You have your three throttle position that you need to diagnose as stated above. You can check your main by doing a plug chop. There is a thread that explains this but basically you warm up your bike on old plugs. Once it is warm shut it down put in new plugs and run wide open throttle 1-6, pull in the clutch and kill the motor. Now take the new spark plugs out and ride back on the old plugs. Cut the threads off the sparkplug using a hack saw or cutoff wheel. at the base of the porcelain there should be a brown ring about 2mm in height. If it is more it is rich if it is less it is lean on the mains. As for the mid throttle position it is basically feel. For your pilot/idle circuit there is a thread explaining how to adjust your pilot jet and fuel air screw.

Please don't spray it. I did mine. It looked good for a little while then started to look like crap. I ended up powdercoating it. It holds up much better.

If you don't know how to jet your quad you better learn. All performance mods (except maybe timing and compression) require jetting adjustment. AND it is a good idea to check your jetting on any mod that you do.

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Yes. I can post pictures not sure if I would use them tho.

I would say most likely an air leak.

What kind of pipes do you have?

The fast cylinders would have been enough with bigger carbs to take the 450.

I think for what you want to do stock gearing would be fine (14/41) you just need more motor. Who is doing your porting and what kind of port? I would recomend larger carbs. The size depending on the type of port and type of riding done.

Is a 39 the lowest you can go? Sorry thought it was a 38. Yes there are bigger fronts but they don't fit without modification of some sort. I dont remember what is in the way. I thought 15 was the biggest you can just put on and have work. I guess I did not mean off the shelf.

I did 89 mph on my ported stock bore and stroke on an asphalt road. Stock gearing and 22 inch tires. If I changed my gearing I don't think I could have gone much faster bc there was just not enough motor there.

I don't think a stock bore stock stroke can do 110 with any gear ratio. If you ignore the power required with the highest off the shelf sprockets 15/38 and with 22 inch tires and engine rpm at 10000 you are only looking at 103. Why do you want 110?

Cranks is sold. Cylinders are still available and I will accept offers on them.

I almost forgot, the cylinders do not come with studs.

What is your current jetting at and am I correct to assume stock carbs? The compression change should not change jetting. The pods will. Go up a few sizes and do a plug chop.

I was going to post something from wikipedia but thought someone would say a non credible source. lol

The cylinders were ported by PR Racing. A local shop by me. They were dune ported and they ran very well. I moved to a serval and dont need them anymore. They are currently 0.030" over and the one cylinder has slight wear marks. I would assume .010" would definatly take this out. I am looking for $250 shipped on these cylinders. I will post pictures when I get home. The crank is stock and not much to say about it. I will check bearing play when I get home and post pictures. I would like $80 shipped on the crank. Everything is shipped to the continental 48.

What mods do you have done to your banshee? Just out of curiosity.

Sorry. I completely disagree. Your clutch is engaged when your clutch plates engage your steels to apply power through your clutch.

I assume you mean disengage the clutch. And I don't see why this is a problem. Are you just creeping forward at a drag line? Apply a little front brake. You shouldn't need to hold in the clutch for long periods of time and rev it. I personally don't think you have any problem.

Mine does this too. It was much worse when I had an ez pull lever bc the pull was less on the cable. I dont know if there is anything you can do about it.