Z0sick

SOLD!

The wife says I can't have more than one bike, so I am selling the Banshee to buy a four stroke. As I grow older, I would like to trade a little speed for some comforts like electric start and reverse. If you have a four stroke, and are looking for a little more speed, I would like to work out a trade. I will sell it outright for $3200. Chassis: Roll Design D-Arms Ricky Stator style tie rods/ends Works Dual rate springs and shocks with Yamaha covers RAD tapered bearing carrier RAD lock nut Tusk nerfbars DG Baja bumper DG Skid plate DG glide plate DG grab bar Ohtsu 250R/400EX front tires Razor rear tires mounted on Douglas black label wheels Dunerunner front and Sand Shark rears mounted on Douglas black labels Red powder coated frame and hubs ProDesign kill switch ProDesign billet shifter Fat bars with custom billet mount custom seat to match new paint Cascade billet throttle cover Cascade brake master billet covers Cascade billet extended throttle lever Stainless Steel brake lines MSR Raptor Clutch lever PEP steering stabilizer Stock lower a-arms modified for removeable ball joint Aftermarket bronze a-arm bushings (also have a new set of Delron) Modquad slider, guide, and ball bearing rollers Modquad Billet Case Saver 55 watt lights (factory are 35) 95% of bolts/nuts are stainless steel 2 flags for the sand Engine: ProDesign cool head w/19cc domes (compression is 192 in both cylinders, stock is 130) mid-range porting stripped jugs and case cover Ricky Stator 200 watt stator FMF Gold Series pipes billet exhaust couplers FMF Power Core silencers Barnett clutch Ricky Stator timing advance plate TDR reeds on modified cages Keihin 28PWK carbs K+N filter with black outerwear billet filter adaptor Modified airbox lid billet boost bottle O-ring chain 15T front, 41T rear sprockets The bike was completely rebuilt from the frame up 3 months ago. The following pics are from before the rebuild. These pics are after the rebuild. Since the rebuild, I have taken it on 4 trips, so about 12-15 hours ride time.

I am in need of a part for my PJ 34. The starter/choke valve broke. Shown here as number 13. Anyone have an extra, or know where I can get one? I have called all the local shops and none of them have it. Looks like I need to order one and have it shipped in. Thanks in advance, Jeremy

That's me... And yes, if you use DHL. DHL was $25 for me to ship the ones I had. UPS wanted $38.

I shipped a set through DHL ground with $200 insurance for around $25. Don't us a box, just tape them together and put the label on.

LOL... Who told you that? You do realize that 99% of cars utilize RUBBER hoses?

PM sent.

Got them back yesterday. I broke them down and rotated the tire about 15* on the rim and reseated them. They have been holding air since yesterday. Oh well. They're back up for sale. I'm an idiot and didn't even think to air them up just like they came back to see how bad the leak was.

PM sent.

from 138 to 162 seems like a big jump. The bike has been running good all summer on the 138's. Temps ranged from 85 to 105. Everything I'm reading on here is telling me to add 1 to 2 sizes for every 25*. This winter should get to around freezing here so a temp change of 50-60 would mean 2-4 jet sizes. Should put me at 142-148. These are in pwk 28's btw.

Just looking for a little help on jetting. The bike currently has the following: ProDesign cool head w/19cc domes mid-range porting FMF Gold Series pipes FMF Power Core silencers RS Timing advance plate (+6) TDR reeds on modified stock cages Keihin 28PWK carbs K+N filter with outerwear Modified airbox lid I am at 1500ft and the temps are starting to get cooler. (35-70) I run a mix of 111 and 927 @ 1:32. The main jets currently in the bike are 138's I think. I am going to buy a few sets of jets this week. What range should I be looking to get?

I run 19's in a cool head at an elevation of 1300ft. I have a max compression of 185psi. I also run +5 timing. For me, the added insurance of running 111 is worth it. It may run fine on 100, but what is a few extra bucks? The price difference here between 100 and 111 is $.65.

I'll take it if zilla doesn't come through.

One small detail that is important. What size is the wheel?

I'm not sure just yet what the problem is. I haven't gotten the wheels back yet. I will keep that in mind though.

Yeah, I'm not sure what happened. He wants to send them back. I rode on these for about 2 months (2 weekends on the sand), then they set in my garage for about 3 weeks before I shipped them out. Not once did I have to air them back up. I'm thinking that either: 1) I let too much air out. I actually pulled the valve and put all my weight on the sidewall of the tire to deflate it. Then replaced the valve. 2) They may have set something on them during the shipping process that broke down the bead. Either way, I don't think it would be that big of a deal to fix. When he sends them back, I will refund his money and let you guys know what it takes to fix them. Sure seems like a waste of money for shipping. $35 each way.

Anyone else have any ideas? I won't be able to mess with them until I get them back. It may be a very easy fix. I don't think the guy that bought them has an air compressor as he had to take them to a tire shop to get them aired back up. It may be as easy as just inflating them to 30psi to reseat the bead. I couldn't imagine that I broke the tire down with just my knee when I was deflating them, but maybe that's what happened.

awesome idea. I would have never thought about hairspray. Is this a long term fix?

I sold a set of sand tires and wheels to a guy on the forum last week. When I went to ship them out, the lady at the counter made me let all the air out. I have no idea why, I've sent several sets of tires for cars, and never had to. Anyway, I pulled the valve stem and pushed all the air out, then put it back in. Keep in mind that these tires held air for weeks while sitting in my garage. Fast forward a few days, and they arrive at the destination. The guy that bought them took them to a tire shop to get them aired back up. He said the tire shop sprayed something on them and there was a leak at the bead. I told the guy I would refund his money if he sent them back. Now I need to know what you guys do for a leaky bead. Should I dismount the tire and try to reseat the bead? This has worked for me in the past, but is a little work. Would I be better off just putting some fix-a-flat in it and calling it good? So, lets hear some fixes for a leaky bead.

AMS sand snakes and wheels sold and shipped to wrx600rr.

I can ship them to you for $70.

Where would you want them shipped? I can't do $120 shipped as the shipping is probably around $40. I will however split the shipping with you. $140 to [email protected], and they're yours.

The next set are Kenda Trakker 20X12.00 - 10. They are mounted on Douglas Red labels (.190) (4 X 115). $120 Lastly, I have a set of GBC Dune Tracker fronts in 21X8.00 10. I ran these at sand fest this year, and they are like new. $65 Thanks, Jeremy Z0sick at gmail dot com