TeamRealtreeHD

I don't really need them anymore like I said. $30 shipped

I bumped down to 18cc since I advanced my timing +6... no longer need the 20cc domes. Let me know if your interested

VP is 65 for 5 gallon here I run CAM2, which is Sunoco 110 unleaded. That is $42 for 5 gallon

t-5's, especially if he plans to modify the bike in the future. They sound very good too, and are very snappy

I know I will have the cylinder gaskets underneath the cylinders replaced as they will come with the piston kit Kevin Herr is sending back with my jugs. But will the reed/intake gaskets come with that Wiseco kit, or will I have to buy them separately? Those are the gaskets I was thinking needed replacing, but even though they didn't look like it, they just should. Just not sure if they will be supplied... this is my first rebuild on this 'shee.

Just wondering what gaskets need replacing. I know the head gaskets below the cylinder will need replacing... I know the Wiseco kit will come with everything I need in the piston department and cylinder separtment for gaskets. But my question is this... the o-ring gasket/seal that goes with the Noss Cool Head, or any cool head for that matter... will that need to be replaced? The black rubber one... What other gaskets did I not mention that may need to be replaced? There are gaskets (2), one for each intake port between the reeds that are gaskets. Not sure if I should replace those, but they look ok. Cleaned up nicely... just not sure if they are recommended to be replaced. Thanks guys

I got them off... I sprayed some wd-40 on the studs, and I used a rubber mallet at the exhaust port. They came off fairly easy that way.... Thanks guys... they are in the box ready to go to the jugmaster!

That's exactly what is happening... it is hanging on the studs. I tried for a long time, I just ran out of methods. I was wiggling, pulling up, lightly tapping, etc. They don't want to move. I appreciate the quick respone okbeast, I really do. just a few seconds of your day can really help another's! Thanks!

Guys... you have been a huge help so far. I have the bike torn down getting ready to send my jugs to Kevin Herr. Plan to have them out in the morning. I can't get them off thouygh. Removed all the cylinder bolts, head, etc. Everything is off. They are wiggling, but not moving or coming off. The Clymer book says to tap them lightly with a rubber mallet or something in that nature. But some areas are tough to get to! But they are moving just enough at the bottom for the eye to see, but won't budge. I am also only working on the one with the piston all the way at the bottom of it's stroke. How the heck do I get these jugs off?

Ok... what I am going to do is take this side off, maybe snap a picture, and report back to headquarters lol I was figuring an O-ring or gasket, but figured I would ask you guys... Thanks for the quick responses guys, it really is nice to have this place when you run into some trouble of some sort!

So I'm looking over the bike today, and I see some exhaust/black residue on the bottom of the frame right below the left head pipe. I wiggle the exhaust and it is loose. So it is spitting some exhaust out right out of the cylinder head. But all the bolts, springs, etc. are tight. They all match up and are tight like the right side (which isn't moving). It is still inatct, not moving much, but for some reason, the other side is tight like it should be, but this left side is moving and exhaust is coming out between the pipe and the head. But it doesn't even seem like there is that much space there, but there is a little bit. So the thing is moving a little, and it is spitting exhaust out. I can't figure out why. What do I have here? I can't figure it out... never had a problem with this bike until now.

Well guys, I decided that I am going to do the stock jugs. Talked with Kevin and he is going to do a hot hillshooting dune port, also hone and bore the jugs, and I am going to switch to 18 cc domes. He is going to send me back an advanced timing plate +6, a set of clutch springs and a pancake bearing saver. Told me I should jump up another 20-25 horses. That is exactly what I am looking for. Hopefully start tearing this thing down shortly. Thanks everyone for the advice!

I hillclimb alot, and basically ride the bike like you would in the dunes. I just wasn't sure if it was worth the extra money for that cylinder over my stock one going to Kevin. I am looking to gain some power... and wasn't sure if getting the cheetah and porting that would be worth it. I was leaning towards the stock jugs going to Kevin when I first decided to do this motor work project. What would I be looking to gain off a dune port, +4 timing and say .020 over from Kevin?

I want to get one here shortly... but I want to keep the same mods I have and I am not looking to install a new crank. I am just looking to gain more power. I was really considering just sending my stock jugs to Kevin Herr, but I really would like to get the cheetah cylinders. Not really sure what my bike is pushing out right now, but what would be the difference if I went with my stock cylinders ported by Kevin and a rebuild... or if I went with lets say the cheetah cub that uses all the stock components? I am really pulling my hair out trying to decide. I have never seen a cheetah cub run but I am reading good reviews. On the other hand, I am also reading good reviews about Kevin Herr's porting. Money wise, I would be looking at $600 to get a port, timing plate and rebuild off Kevin. That includes shipping. Then you double that for the Cheetah cylinders with porting and ready to run. What should I do? I am not looking to run this bike on the track... but the cheetah cub is really calling my name loudly here. I just don't want to change pipes or carb setup/intake. I want to keep it the same. And would really like to know what would be the best bang for the buck keeping this setup.

Where is the cheapest place to purchase a cub? I am going to get the 65mm stroke cub

So 8" tires won't hook up? I see them hook pretty good. But I have these beadlocks... and I don't want to sell them. I want to put them on the banshee, just looking for a good aggressive tire for them

Alot of you guys recommended Knarly's for me... I need a tire that can handle some hillclimbds and hard packed dirt, along with soft stuff. Here is the problem... I have 8" rear Douglas beadlocks I want to run and the knarly's are on ly made in 9" and 10" How about mud sharks? They come in a 21" tire and 8" Alot of guys in my area are running super swamper tsl 22" on 8" rims for hillclimbing, but that is a heavy tire... much heavier than the 22" dirt devils I am destroying stuff with. But the dirt devils, with their forward tread, just spin alot more than I'd like. I need some bite... just a little more bite I wish they made knarly's in 8"... but any other advice, along with some input on the mudsharks, would be nice.

Hey guys... thanks for the responses again. 16/41 will definately be my gearing... lots of good things I am hearing and 20" tires as well. Still undecided on the tire, but those knarly's look good!

They do. I personally see 450's and banshees tear razrs and razr 2's to shreads... but the IRazrs seem to wear nice on powerful sport quads. They are 20" Any other advice on gearing or 20" tires guys for these awesome, one of a kind machines?

I need to find a 20" tire that is rough and won't wear down. My bike spits out some horses... well not compared to some of the machines you guys run, but it is fairly modded and can run. I run 22's mainly because they are 6 ply and seem to climb hills better. BUT if I can find the right gearing, and a 20" tire that can take abuse from banshees on hard packed dirt, I will run it. I was thinking the IRazr 20"... but please, feel free to tell me differently! I love the input from you guys. Thanks a bundle

I am running GBC Dirt Devils. I hillclimb alot, and run the bike off the line here and there to keep the guys and their thumpers quiet lol But mainly hillclimb in the coal hills around here, and dune/race around Thanks guys for all the responses... you guys are like geniuses!!!!

Anybody have any advice on gearing? I thought at least one guy would know here

Hi guys... just thought I'd ask the pros here a question... I really like the way my bike is running, but it seems the gearing may be too narrow, not wide enough. I am running stock gearing. I have 22 inch tires on the rear, and it just seems like the bike can be widened out a little more in the gears/sprockets. Jump up a tooth or two in the front maybe? I know you guys know your stuff!!! With my mods... what do you think. The bike has a serious set underneath the seat and is a real joy to ride, just want to widen it out a little. I will also be porting it... an agressive/high port job since I mainly climb hills and dune around. I'll drag the bike here and there too. It seems like my 1st gear is just not even there... I barely move with it. But that's besides the point as I hardly use it other than pulling out. But what do you guys think? With my mods, and my riding style, what would you guys do? What is a very popular combination on a 'shee? For saying duning, hillclimbing, racing around, etc. with 22 inch tires?

Kev, I don't have a PM for some reason... can you try re-sending? Thanks, I appreciate it. I'll send the motor out to you if it is reasonable for sure!!!

Kev, what would I be looking at money wise to do this port and advance the timing? What do you think, overall including shipping, this would cost?