TeamRealtreeHD

The flanges? As in what connection, the exhaust port out of the jugs or the connection where they meet the silencers? I don't want leaky pipes.

Sounds like a float problem to me. Adjust the float height and angle. That is typical of happening when the float messes up.

Good to hear... So that bike has a croth rocket motor in it? How does it run? I saw on like that at the drag track on Friday night... but as most know, it got rained out so I couldn't smoke his ass :laugh:

Yea man, what the hell? No more banshees?

That clears it up pretty good guys. I kn ew the operating temps were a little different, but this guy was talking about all kinds of stuff that just didn't make sense, like how the b8 and b9 are made for durability, etc. I never heard of such stuff. If I was better with words, I could remember the exact quotes he said and really amuse you guys like I was sitting there having him tell me stuff. Tried telling me how his motor builder does this with ports, and how his shit runs good and he never lost to another banshee, etc. I took hom down to the paved road where we race leading into the riding area and I smoked his ass by at least 8-10 bikes. Then another guy I ride with all the time has a banshee ported by a local shop here that runs good. He beat him by several bike lengths too. Then this guy thought he was a good rider, we took him to a set of hillclimbs that we fly across sideways, and need to curl it back on the top so you don't run off the cliff, and he turned around and went home... never saw him again the rest of the day. Packed his bike up and left. But the stuff he was saying was just outrageous... he claimed he had 28mm PWK's on it. Clearly they were stock carbs after close inspection. Just a funny dude to talk to.

And that is the truth! I will see if Matt or Jack will let me rip for a few minutes at their house with the CPI's but I am pretty sure that this is the right decision.

Anybody interested in these? If someone wants them now, I will rip them off and send them out. They look like they are new... the pic in my signature was taken just 2 weeks ago or so.

Guy has a brand new set of them for stock carbs over in the for sale forum... $35 I believe. Go check it out before they get nabbed...

Kevin Herr did the work at HJR. He does all his porting and recommends the Shearers to compliment the porting. All my mods are in the signature... If I have to do it, I can play with the gearing and such. The bike has the bottom end now, not as much as I would like, but to have all the top end I want, you can't have it all, you know? I'll just tinker with it, the timing and such when I get the new pipes. I have my timing at +5 now, it can be adjusted and such since I have the plate to get some more bottom end. It will be a new tickering job.

From what I understand, and this is coming from someone who never used R50... The SuperTech is 80% Synthetic, and 20% Castor as well all know. I use it and love it. And the R50 is 100% the synthetic stuff in SuperTech? Is that true?

I heard the same thing from a few guys around here...

The place I get my shit done at will do it all for that chunk of change. I get a nice paint job, I mean really nice on the frame, the swingarm, the steering stem, and the throttle housing, and little stuff, for $195 over the winter. The guys lowers his prices over the winter for some reason. I did 3 different quad frames through him. And it is top notch work. Just the right thickness, and any texture or color you want. I would look around you, maybe ask aroundm see what is out that way. See who does good work, who went with who for what reasons, etc. And prices too. Good luck. I will be ripping my bike down to do this frame in January. Plan on having the frame, a +2 swinger from Slobanshee on the HQ here and the steering stem done. Maybe the little stuff as well. xXBlessedWithDeathXx on here will be doing my A-Arms since I am afraid the powdercoating process will run the ball joints and boots.

I got 3 extras for that reason from the same guy. I knew it wasn't common since I ran it on my other bikes after the stock chain wore out. And I knew from past experiences that the masterlink is hard to come by.

I am switching to either CPI or Shearer inframes over the winter. Leaning towards the Shearers as the motor builder runs them, and many claim they produce more pull with his motors. And I would believe it too. But who has them, how do you like them, etc. I heard they leak and wiggle at the exhaust ports alot... not sure who told me that or where I read it. But with good O-rings, and maybe something extra in there to keep it tight, I don't see that being a problem. What's the scoop on these? I love my Trinity's, with them being stainless. Very nice to have that luxury let me tell you! But I know the Shearer's will haul more ass for sure. Kevin at HJR swears by them, and he did wonders on my motor so far. Won't be the last time I send a set of jugs to him. So I am leaning towards this pipe. I think I might get them through Cascade to get the better plating... Who has input?

Mercury, good advice. I too recommend if jetting on a hot day to be a little richer due to if it gets cold the thing will lean out. Be a size bigger on a really hot day. Better to be safe than sorry. And always keep an eye on it, especially when you think you got it, and then the temp changes all of a sudden. You will find a setting that will usually work in most conditions, just a tad richer in the hot weather.

Yes, stay away. I too had a bad experience with them... A good lever and perch will feel like a hydraulic. Either an ASV or a Magnum would be my recommendation. They are easy as heck... 1 finger.

Man, that is funny stuff. I too agree that dreams are jucked bad and out of place sometimes. I dream about things I never thought of or even heard of before when I was awake... plain out rediculous sometimes when I wake up sometimes

Did you see any difference in the switch from 80wt to 75wt? Any slipping? Or did it get dirty quicker?

I wish I can run it a little leaner in the mixture, like 40:1 or 50:1. Kevin Herr says to do either 32:1 or 36:1, and I would much rather run it a little bit less. But I will stick with what works. I ran my bike before the new setup at 40:1 or 45:1. It didn't smoke at all and not a ton of buildup on the stingers. I get a little smoke here and there now, not much, just when I get on it and it shoots out quick and that's it. But the oil in the silencers before the repack this past week was kind of thick. But it works and runs good. The builder knows best... I asked him twice about it and he said don't change.

I was talking with a guy today... he wasn't from around here but came up, as alot of out of towners do, to climb the hills. He runs B9ES or something close. But it isn't the standard B8ES that most runm. I run B8ES due to the engine builder recommending to do so. But what I found interesting, and thought I would run past you guys, is that he claimed the B9ES last longer. I won't switch, because I have my bike running spot on with jetting, spark, etc. And I get plugs pretty cheap from a local business. So I buy them in bulk and gap them to my specs when I am tinkering in the garage. So changing, or needing plugs, is never a problem. But I thought I would run the different plugs and their lifespan past you guys.

Get a coolant water bracket. Rocky Mountain ATV sells them the cheapest. Lose the airbox, mount the bracket up on the two holes where the airbox went and keep the coolant bottle. I think I got mine $30 shipped to my door in a few days too.

I think it is one heck of an oil for sure. It gets good ratings everywhere I looked. Mine was dirty so I am going to let it drain overnight. Gotta pick up a bottle this week sometime since I have half of one from the last change.

I just got a new chain as my old one was shot. It was the stock chain, and the guy who had it before me lubed the living shit out of it. Every ride it would be slinging grease everywhere... I am not just talking specks, I am talking gobs of shit and it would take me hours upon hours to clean the bike. But I dealt with it until it strecthed it's last stretch on my bike. I just got a new one, made by KMC. It is all gold, a 520 O-Ring, and looks good. I rode it for my test run on the drag strip Friday night before the rain, and both yesterday and today I put some time on it. It is working out pretty good. I will clean the bike up this week and change my sig since I got that, the new Lonestar hubs on it, etc. It is nice and shiny, but most of all, is a good strong dependable product. I recommend them. I got mine on ebay from sledpartsguy.

I have been running this in my bikes since day 1. I haven't had any problems at all whatsoever with it. Whenever I can't get this, I get Macima MTL. But that only happened one time back when I had my Honda 250r. But for the guys using it, what weights are you running? I usually like to run 80wt, but the last change I put 75wt in. It seems that it got dirty quicker, and needed changing faster due to being lighter I guess. But it still lasted longer than other oils the buddies are running. What weights are you guys using and what's your input on this stuff? I love it

Anybody else here run this stuff and have any input? I won't make a switch, if I ever do, until the next rebuild which won't be for awhile. I will still stick with the Klotz, just curious to see what people have to say about it.