TeamRealtreeHD

Thank you Damian... I also gotta get my stingers out to you soon as well.

I find that hard to believe...

I run the same setup too.... with or without a bigger radiator, cubs will run warmer than a stock jugged bike. Just know when it's time to let 'er cool... I won't ride the heck outta mine without giving it the cool down. Good luck

I have the following... Stock Clutch cover- Great shape, no scratches, looks fantastic. $25 shipped OBO Stock sipstick with O-Ring- Looks new. $15 shipped OBO Stock Rear hubs- Splines look great, hubs in great shape- $20 shipped OBO Stock Swingarm- Grey stock finish, great shape, looks new- Make offer Stock Gascap- Make offer Purple set of 33-36mm Outerwears for 6" pods, may fit others- $15 shipped Stock footpegs $20 shipped OBO Stock fuel petcock $20 shipped

Sent... thank you!

Still on the hunt...

Good work Sir... way to use your imagination. Yamaha sure didn't when they thought of non-removable ball joints and the chain adjustment

Yea, loctite has to go on them... I am ripping into it tomorrow and doing the deed. I really appreciate all of you guys helping me out here, and giving the honest opinions.

Got it going... Checked compression right away, clean. Both sides right on at 167-168. That was a big relief... most know what I mean. Where to go next? I took the carbs off, and since I haven't been running outerwears on the filters due to not having heat wrap on the pipes, the pilot air screw and a few other circuits weren't as clean as most of us would like lol... Anyways, both carbs cleaned... everything. Clean as a whitsle. Put it back together, nothing. What else could it be? I already checked reeds... none cracked... and all the wires were good to go... I took the intakes back off to double check the reeds, and low and behold, the screws on these fucking VForce 2's backed out... on the right side. Got them torqued down again, and poof, she runs. I will use these pieces of shit designed reeds for the remainder of the summer, then get the ones without the screws (VForce 3's) Thanks for all the help and concern guys... need to make more video for this weekend!!!

Checked the plug cap wires and switched them. Still did it. Changed plug out, still did it. Plan on checking for some kind of air leak tomorrow anddo the compression test. Test compression first and go from there. Any other advice fellas? Thanks

Got an issue where the left side is firing, but the right is just barely going... It will go a little on idle, but it is barely there. Feeling with my hands, it is just barely shooting exhaust out, but the left is fine. I am thinking it might be electrical... I didn't try to swap the plug wires to see if it changes to the other side yet... but plan to do so tomorrow. Also plan to do a compression test. Anything else I should check? I am farely experienced here with these bikes and two strokes as a whole, just really didn't have much time to look at it yet. The problem was like a light switch. Happened ight before dark last night as I took it out for a quick spin. It all of a sudden sounded weird... I put my hands back to check the exhaust coming out and the right side was barely there. Called a buddy to pick me up right there in the truck... Plan on getting into it tomorrow so hopefully I have a few things to check. Doesn't seem mechanical...

Center punch idea worked like a charm feelas! Got 10 of them out in the time it took me to take the first 2 out! Thanks guys!!!

Sold... Pending Payment

This will fit 33-36mm PJ or PWK carbs

I have a brand new Boss Racing Billet intake with the built in crossover. New in the package, never opened. I have the same one, love it. So does everybody that has them. Looking to get $80 shipped OBO... Make a reasonable offer and it will be gone... need it outta here as I have no use for it. Don't ever plan on mine breaking!!!

Plastic ones... They are shot anyways and the ones I removed I am just destroying them. But it is taking too long.

Removed a few of them already, but they seem to be stuck tight. Any advice?

There will be a few members telling you to do a search... I have been there, done that. Error. No results. Blah Blah Blah Post up, and learn. Some guys spend lots of time on here, like all day. So they get sick of these questions. They may never answer any of my questions ever again, oh well. They are stuck up and can go pound sand. You have a question, it needs answered. Plain and simple. They don't own the forum. The forum owners never complain about it... always the guys who are on all day, every day. And I can name a few. I use GearSaver 85 WT. Use only the best. I tried ATF Type F, and saw lots of wear in the clutch plates and tranny. Not with BelRay GearSaver though. ATF Type F users seeem to be drag racers. I seen them, talked with them, and even on here, looked at their sigs. Look at the guys who post they use ATF type F... MOSTLY, I repeat, mostly... drag racers. They run their bikes for 1, 2, 3, 10, etc. passes. Not much. They change often. Guys who ride, run their bikes hard, run good stuff. 3-5 passes on the track is not 8-10 hours in the dunes. Or... in my case, the coal hills. Don't let your bike come in second place. Use good oil. I asked many times in the past, and came to that conclusion after 1 hour with that fucking garbage in my tranny/clutch. While it might work for them, won't work for the everyday banshee owner Joe... Good luck. Tony

Pipes Filter (s)... most go with pods for better flow,dpends on water/mud areas where one may ride Cool Head Timing Advance (most go with adjustable plate) Good tires for the style of riding said person likes to do Reeds Suspension mods possibly Others that make honorable mention for me... engine ice as coolant and a good tranny fluid. If one uses the stock carrier, modify it to put a grease zerk on it. Makes life easy. Good clutches go a long way, as does a modded shift star and a good set of handlebars. My first seven up top are the ones I would hit first, and the fluids of course... at the same time knowing I would modify it furthur down the road, so get the pipes to accomodate that for sure (porting, etc). Loose the parking break assembly the day the bike comes home... and get a Magnum Easy Pull lever, or spend lots of money on ASV's or something. Make that pull smooth!

I need the black rubber strips that go along the gas tank/plastics up top.

Like I said in the original post, I could see the a-arm moving. And can feel it moving when my eye sees it. A ball joint wouldn't cause that to happen, although would feel the same.

That is what I figured.... only so many things it could be. Inever had a bad set before because I always replace them, along with bearings in the wheels and the rear, before they get bad. So I didn't know the symptoms of a bad set. Thanks for the reply!

Looking for some bushings for the a-arms up front. Thought maybe someone here had some laying around and I thought I'd ask. Thanks

When I grab my tires in the front, and move them, the a-arms (top one) will move a little... even with the bolts tight. It's not the wheel bearings by the way... Is this the sign of bad a-arms bushings that need replaced? The top arm will slide back and forth like 1/8" when I grab the tire and check it like I'm checking for wheel bearings and wiggling. If not, what could it be? If it is, should I replace the bushings, the pivot and the dust caps too???

Looking for a gas tank strip, for stock plastics, that goes along the tank and tank cover. The black rubber strip. It runs from the front of the tank, to the rear in front of the seat. One on each side of the tank. Both would be great!