TeamRealtreeHD

Kyle, You'll only need to send in your cylinders to Kevin at HJR for the ported 4mil stocker. If you decide to go with the duneable tranny like mine, you can take yours out ('ll have the cases split anyways for the crank installation) and send it to him for 100 core charge off your new tranny. I highly recommend it, seriously. You will need intakes and the pancake bearing on top of the list I already gave you. Boss Racing with the built in cross over tube is top notch for intakes. Get the pancake bearing from Kevin with all your parts. Me or Matt can help you put the motor together/take it apart if your Dad doesn't want to get that dirty with it. For you needs, stay away from Shearer pipes. They are top end only. Get CPI if you want top end with a splash of mid. Or Trinity's... or Toomey T5. Alot of guys like CPI... You will need new domes for the 4 mil build, if you go with the cub as well. Kevin will square you away. Just let him know what you want to do with it, and what gas you want to run. I wanted good compression, but didn't want to run straight race fuel. He set me up so I can mix 50/50 race and pump. 33-35mm Keihin PWK's will cover either the cub or the 4 mil stocker. For what you are doing, go with the 4 mil stocker... You know I drove a few times from your house to the moon... and let me tell you, it's not fun. I have the cub of course... while you CAN trail ride them, they aren't the best setup for it. I am primarily a hillshooter. I trail rode from your house to the moon to climb hills. That 10-15 minute trail ride kicked my ass. I was in the trees, in the bushes, off the path, in a bears den, in a racoons nest... everywhere but the path lol. They are a handful on tight trails. Believe me... however, with me, I like that lightswitch stuff. The powerband coming out of nowhere... a banshee wouldn't be a banshee without it. I went cub because of it. On that same hand, though, I don't trail ride. I killed 2 birds with 1 stone. Win/Win for me. A ported stocker with a 4mil is the perfect setup for trails and hillclimbing the way you want to do both... you won't be an all out hillclimber, and want to trail ride. Go 4 mil stocker... I on the other hand, shoot hills. So I went cub. And for the times I trail ride, to and from the hills, or from hill to hill, I bite the bullet and take a lickin' Plus, you'll save money as well. You're on you're stock bore I believe... he will bore you .020" over, will send you new pistons back, the hot rods crank, your cylinders ported and matched to your pistons, crank and your riding style, etc. Get the 33 or 35mm PWK's and call it a day. You will need a dual pingel fuel valve... I'd go atlest +2 but +4 on the swinger would be optimal. Perfect for climbing, will do just fine on the trails. He will send the base gasket back, along with wrist pin bearings, clips, etc. for pistons. If you get a new clutch and clutch cover/overide, get a new clutch gasket and seal kit. VF3 reeds... no ther way to go. And pod filters... no air box stuff. You'll be advancing your timing as well so plan for a timing plate. I run mine at +5.5. As others have said, though, you need to decide what you want to do with this bike PRIMARILY/MOST OF THE TIME. Trail ride? Hillclimb with Gertrude? I got used to the cub, on trails... but it kicked my ass, and will kick my ass, every time. I'd go 4 mil stocker with Kevins Hot hillshoot port. A set of stock cylinders ported with a 4 mil pumping underneath them is a nasty trail machine capable of climbing the biggest of all coal hills we know as coal crackers. Go 4 mil dune or 4 mil hot hillshooter 4 mil from Kevin. FAST or Jim at Passion would be my other choices, or Brandon at Wildcard Racing. Kevin is Fast... and answers questions. He has my business for the rest of my life... I've never dealt with a more pleasant businessman than him that cares as much as you do about your build.

Looking for a nice set of VForce 3 Reeds for another build of mine. Let me know if you have anything. Thanks

Ended up getting them on... used the buddy method. Thanks guys

Ball joints are like new. The boots were ripped however. So I bought 4 new ones. Not sure how to go about replacing the boots though. The clip is a son of a bitch to get over the lip on the arm.

Anyone ever replace the ball joint boots on stock A Arms? I bought a very nice set of arms for another project of mine here, and the boots need replaced. Looking for tips Thanks

Thanks alot for the offer. I ended up finding a set from a fellow member. I appreciate your time.

Looking for a set of A Arms for another build. Let me know if you have anything. Would prefer blacks but would consider any color if they are in good shape. Thanks

Looking for the following parts -A Arms... stock is fine, would prefer a set off of a LE that was black. Meaning they are black stock arms. Good shape a must. Would also consider any aftermarkets -VForce 3 Reeds -Front shocks... would prefer the black to go with the black arms but would consider any color if they are in good shape -Carb Sync tool Pm me with what you guys have. Thanks

50 shipped is the lowest I will go.

PM replied... these need to go to a good home.

Thank you. I wasn't sure what size amp to get, the guy told me he thought he 1200 would sound good, keep the 12's sounding good, but not be too much. It would work really good in any other vehicle without a sliding rear window (they don't make them in vehicles anymore... if you know what a Wagoneer is, and hoe oldf they are, you'd know what I am talking about.) Any subwoofer, however, in this vehicle wouldn't work. I won't complain however, because she's a nice jeep. I love it. Just isn't made for this stuff. I'm hoping to get a face to face deal. If not, I am guessing this thing will sit in the jeep for a long time.

I have a really nice car stereo setup for anyone interested. To make a long story short, I put it in my Jeep Wagonner, but it rattles the windows too much. My Jeep is Lifted high, but has a thin rear window that rattles. I had it professionally installed by a place up the road that specializes in car systems. The box is approximately 18-22" high, and 36-40 inches long. I can measure it for sure if anyone would want. It has a Sony XPloid 1200 watt amplifier. 2 Kick Comp Sub Woofers 12" each. And has the quick dis-connect connection. Meaning you can plug and uplug the system for removal. A very nice feature. So it isn't "permanent". I would like to get $225-$250 out of it. I would have no idea how in the world I would ship it though. So I am guessing I would be limited to just FTF deals. I wish I could use it, but this isn't working in this vehicle. A shame... I'm a little upset but what are you going to do. I'll accept offers as well. Good deal on a great system.

$55 shipped

I got a set of UPP Intakes. They are in brand new condition, came off a running bike that had them on for less than a week before the bike got torn down for partout. They say, from UPP, they will fit 34mm-36mm carbs. From my experience, with both UPP and Boss intakes, they will fit 33-36mm carbs. Alot of guys like the UPP intakes. Asking $75 shipped OBO. Make a solid offer and they are coming to your door. Thanks guys

It was sent through paypal... so file the claim Mongo. You didn't get burnt, he will.

I need a skull or flame grill for a maier hood...

Can I get a few pics of the '06???

Snap a pic if you can my man! The realtors I have are for 8" rims... not sure if you were aware of that or not.

Looking for a brake rotor, one with holes in it, or an aftermarket wave rotor, etc. Looking for a carb sync tool, one similar to the old volswagon tools or the ones that Jeff sells at FAST. Looking for billet front brake resevoir cap, and rear resevoir cap. Anything billet, let me know what you got. Maybe an aftermarket sprocket hub too if anyone has one. Thanks guys

That's a must... yes, you will need it.

33mm for a stock jug 4 mil from Kevin would rip. A cub 4 mil or equivalent I think 35mm at the least so it's not choked up.

No problems with the washers I suppose... I will order mine from them, and order the washers as well. Always helpful Josh... thank you brudda!

Yea, I am guessing maybe a little too tight. I don't know. No washers Josh. I was thinking of maybe putting some on. Thinking it might help? I try and keep the lexan cover on as well, but in this coal dirt, with those 12 bolts looseing a little here and there, the coal dirt finds it's way into the cover a little. The o-ring will stop it from going furthur... but I took it ogg those 2 times to clean it.

How do you guys prevent the clear cover from cracking when you are installing it? I got mine from Jeff at Fast, has the FAST emblem on it, and I took it off twice. The first time I removed all 12 bolts and re-installed it, it got several spider looking hairline cracks in it. This second time, well, it shit the bed pretty good. Cracked completely. It is the 12 bolt style and loctite was never used. Any advice? Are all the covers the same? Is there an option where I could get a metal one that won't crack? Or are there ways to prevent what happened here.

Here's the pics... all offers will be considered. But no lowballing please. Will work great on someone's ported setup or even a cheetah. They are a great carb. Easy to work on and never any problems with any of the PWK's I ever ran.