TeamRealtreeHD

I never had this problem. I rode an entire summer, climbing hills, beating my bike hard. I just simply forgot to tighten it. And remember not tightening it. It stayed on when it was tight lol

Worked like a charm! Thanks!

Thanks CAH!!! You're the man. I am going to go to Lowes today to get the bolts and such. I can't weld so this will work for me. Thanks alot!

That is the tool my buddy made as well

I did put this spacer in. It's there. It's the one that can easily be removed when the washer and nut come off the bottom of the stem. Gotta be careful when playing with it that it doesn't fall out on you.

Well I found the problem. I took it apart and that is what it was. The retainer was moving up on the threads allowing all of the other things below it to move up, thus, allowing the stem to move up and down. My friend who made the took for this "retainer" is not around today and won't be around until tomorrow. I might try and run down a bolt and nut to try and get this done. If not, I will have to wait until tomorrow.

After I painted my frame, I put the bike back together of course. In the process, where the steering them goes into the frame, there are bearings and bushings as well as seals. There is also a piece that threads into the steering stem area of the frame. I did not tighten this piece like I should have. I did it with my fingers the best I could. As luck would have it, it must have came loose a little. The steering stem has about 1/2-1" of play up and down. I need to tighten this down. A friend of mine has a tool he uses for this. He explained it to be a nut that fits inside the threaded piece with a bolt on top to tighten with. Is there any methods you guys use to tighten this piece? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I assume there is a way to do this that I am missing.

I somehow lost my top chain roller in the front. The little round one. Will it hurt to ride it like that until I put the new one on over the weekend? Was hoping to make it out this afternoon with a few friends. But am a little afraid without the little chain roller up front there.

Looking for the following parts 15 tooth front sprocket 40 tooth rear sprocket Rear sprocket hub with clamps that clamp down the bolts.

Donkey, Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, they no longer make the tire. I wish they did. Alot of us do.

I just picked up a set for my 8" beadlocks. Was wondering if any of you sand guros would know where I can run down another set or two. I have both 8 and 10" rims. Won't matter what they are. I know most guys in the sand hated them, but they are the best tire for the coal. Please let me know if anyone has a set or knows of where I can find them. The set I just got is new and should last me a long time, a few seasons. But I am stocking up. Thanks guys

They arrived yesterday and look awesome. I can't wait to try them. They look like a mean tire. Very similar to Vampires.

I think it can be done...

Looking for some paddlemasters. If anyone has any, let me know

I love mine. Got it at Fast. I synced my buddies carbs today. One carb was barely going, despite the fact he thought he was tuned. They are a must have, literally. Well worth the dollar.

That is what they are, the swamp with. My bad for the typo.

I just got a great deal on 2 rear Deestone Mudwitch tires. 22x11x9. I plan on having 3 different tires on hand for climbing the coal hills, most of us have several tires to swap out for different locations (hard pack, soft/loose, etc) I have Super Swamper TSL's for climbing the hard packed stuff, either Sedona Cyclones or Paddlemasters for the loose stuff, and now I got these Mudwitch's for "beating around" the house on the smaller hills and stuff. I wasn't looking for the top of the line hillclimbing tire here. Just something with good hillclimbing tread pattern. However, my buddy had them one time before he sold his bike, ran them for a few weeks and they were awesome. They are hard to find, and hard to find at a decent price. Or I would have had them for my beating around tire. I was going to get bearclaws but they are too big once mounted on the rim. Anyways, anybody have these? They seem to be a rare tire. Made in Thailand. I'll let you guys know how they work out. Any input from guys who have had them or have them would be great. I never heard of them on a banshee before. My buddy ran them on his YFZ450. Bnahees are a different bike of course and these can be either really good or bad. The tread and ply rating are what I am looking for though.

I have a set of Easy pull carb springs that I bought from Jeff a few years back. They have been sitting in the tool chest. I am interested in putting them on, but have a few questions. I know that you can't use the white cable guard/stopper that goes on the bottom inside the carb on the original springs. I am worried that if I don't use this, my cable will pop out of the slides. Is this the case or is it really a non issue?

Update: Bike is running better than ever. Started in 3 kicks, despite not being ran for 8-9 months and motor being out, wires being out, etc. for frame paint. The clutch arm and arrow on case do not allign, but it pulls smooth and works great. Many others I talked to with similar setups say the same. I have tons of adjustment, etc. Thanks to all for the input.

There wasn't any tuning issues. The bike kicked over in 3 kicks, despite not being ran in 8-9 months. The motor was out, wires were off, etc. to paint frame. I was very happy. Can't tell the difference in the reeds.

I am currently running an HJR 421 cub. I am running 35 PWK's with pod filters, etc. I didn't run or start my bike this year, but last year I was running VForce 2 reeds. I had the bike tuned and tuned well. I was having issues with the screws backing out however, so this year I switched to VForce 3's. My question is, should I expect any difference in these? I doubt there will be a difference in performance of course. But when I say difference, should I expect it to need a slight tuning? I like to tune bikes, but this question is out of curiosity since I didn't start the bike yet. I will be starting it tonight after I finish working on the new clutch. Any opinions?

Me and Matt are going to work on it some more come Friday. I'll let you know what happens.

Tyler, I played around more with it tonight. I got tons of adjustment... however, the arm isn't anywhere close to being lined up with the case. The tabs aren't lined up. The clutch arm is way over towards the stator side now. It feels good, pulls good, etc. I didn't run the bike yet. Don't plan on it until I get it all set up right. But I am concerned it's not adjusted properly. It's not adjusting like my old clutch did. This is, however, an entirely different clutch. I was running a Tusk kit before, with stock springs. Now I have a new cable, FAST clutch, light springs, etc. Everything is new.

Anyone ever get a bad cable? I just got a new Motion Pro Cable, installed a FAST clutch with new springs, etc. I am out of adjustment. I aligned the clutch arm arrow/tab with the machine mark/tab on the cases by tightening the pushrod screw on the pressure plate into the ball. The ball and pancake bearing are installed correctly and in the right direction. Still no luck. I have clutch, and have pull at this point. But the threaded cable adjuster is on it's last thread and wiggles. It's out of adjustment. I am honestly thinking I got a bad cable... is this even possible? It's brand new.

I am in love with my Trinity's... and will never get rid of them. They pulled hard on a stock stroke, stock ported bike. Then they pulled hard on a HJR stock stroke ported bike with 33mm PWK's. And they are hauling ass and kicking ass on my 421 4 mil HJR ported cub, with 35mm PWK's. They are good pipes. Maybe I got a good set? I don't know. But they kick ass IMO.